cglaeser

My preference is the third choice, separate IR and camera. Best, Christopher

No fuses? I love the smell of a burnin' cameras in the mornin'. Best, Christopher

Perhaps it is the inherently increased contrast of the night image, but the focus of the night image appears better than the day image. The day image looks very soft. Best, Christopher

Assuming a decent trigger (which is not hard to do), only one frame is needed for one car, independent of the speed of the vehicle (within some range, e.g. 0 to 100mph). I've reviewed images from the CA DMV (California Department of Motor Vehicles) of vehicles running red lights, and the cameras are set to take the photo when the vehicle hits a precise location in the intersection. Best, Christopher

Guessing a simple NO/NC type alarm signal. Best, Christopher

Interesting. Based on my experiences with the 223M, I had given up on Axis IP MP cameras for night use. Please be sure and include a walking subject night image. Best, Christopher

What is your budget? Multi-camera power supplies in a can with terminal strips, fuses, etc, are dirt cheap. Best, Christopher

Excellent question. First, stay focused on your requirements, and second, look to solutions that actually address your requirements. I know of a home that was robbed and set on fire. The homeowners had installed six cameras at the front door, back door, and inside the home. The system recorded many photos of three thieves as they moved through the home, but the images are pretty much worthless. Once every month or so, someone will post an image on this forum and request assistance to improve the image. The images are usually blurry, dark, noisy, night images with a time stamp that indicates what time the crime occurred, with little other value in actually solving the crime. You want to identify license plates and then immediately jumped to specifications like 1/2" sensor, varifocal lens, etc. Why do you think you need a 1/2" sensor. Why do you think you need a varifocal lens? Are you certain a fixed lens with the proper focal length could not do better? When trying to identify license plates, my suggestion is to focus on products that are specifically designed for this purpose. Will the system work with moving vehicles, will the system work in day and night, will the system work with both headlights and taillights, coming and going, etc. Yes, these systems may cost more than your initial budget, but if you try and solve this problem as a DIY on a budget, odds are good that you will spend your budget and not actually solve the problem. So, my suggestion is to post your requirements, e.g. number of lanes, speed of vehicles, distances, possible mounting angles, etc, and then ask for suggestions for affordable solutions that address these requirements. Hope that is helpful. Best, Christopher

2 to 3 MP with 1/2" progressive scan and 5 to 50 varifocal lens for $650? What kind of help do you need getting them? Someone to hold the ladder while you yank them off a building? Best, Christopher

Looking forward to the images. I have a Raymax 50 with the Axis 223M. Although marketed as a day/night camera, the 223M is not the greatest camera at night. The Raymax 50 is both attractive and functional, and made 223M passable for me. Best, Christopher

A ground rod is not a lightning rod. A ground rod is in the ground. A lightning rod is placed high on a building or a tower or someplace high to attract the lighting and dump the energy to earth through a ground rod. The ground rod and all other aspects of the buildings may be to code, but a house or barn typically does not require a lightning rod to pass inspection. I expect the ground rods are perfectly fine. The ground rods will not protect you or your family or your equipment from a lightning strike. If anything, the ground rod makes it easier for lightning to find ground via your house. If you want protection from future strikes to your house and barn, you should install a lightning rod. I think you are confused about the function of a surge protector, ground, ground rod, lightning rod, and electricity in general. I suggest you call an electrictian who is familiar with the installation of lightning rods and other devices used to protect people and property from direct hits and hits to the power grid. Hope this was helpful. Best, Christopher

Which surge protectors do you prefer? Best, Christopher

Yes! You need a lightning rod. If your equipment is hit, it will fry. Grounding the equipment will make it that much easier for lightning to find the earth through your equipment. The only way to save your equipment from a direct hit is to take steps to ensure it does not take a direct hit. A well-placed lighting rod will dump all the energy to the earth and bypass your equipment. Also, use surge protection to ensure that a hit on the power grid somewhere down the line does not come over the grid and destroy your equipment. Best, Christopher

This type of data is useful for the customer but generally identifies limitations of the product, and therefore does not increase sales. Best, Christopher

RayMax has one, but it's indoor only. Best, Christopher

At what shutter speed? Best, Christopher

Why are you posting the prices of 400mm lenses? It's nice to know that with the EF mount you *could* use a 400mm lens if you really needed the reach, but, c'mon, let's be realistic. It's extremely rare that a security application uses that kind of reach. Best, Christopher

Oh, and by the way, you don't have to do this on your own. You may save time and money if you solicit assistance from a local installer. Best, Christopher

Yes, I can understand why you considered this design. However, the system will be easier to debug if you leave the camera out of the lighting equation. The sensor should trigger the camera and the sensor should trigger the lighting. If the light does not work for some reason, you have one less component in the mix the debug. Fortunately, your system is relatively simple and others here on this forum will be able to assist you. Best, Christopher

Based on comments of others, the sensor includes a 110v relay, but even if it did not include a 110v relay, I would not use the camera to turn on the light. Instead, I would use the output of the sensor to control a 110v relay. Relays are very cheap (just a few dollars) and it keeps the design very simple and avoids unnecessary complexity. Best, Christopher

I have the 207mw (not the 207w). The larger pixels of the 207w should do better in low light than a 207mw, but that's a pretty big field of view for a 35w led. I'm guessing the shutter speed was too low to see detail of a walking person. In any case, it's a really important question to ask. These IP cameras that are capable of 2 seconds shutter speeds can look fantastic on parked cars. At 10:02 pm the car looks great; at 10:05 pm the car is gone. Sometime in between the car was stolen. No real clues on who actually stole the car, or even how many were involved in the theft, because at 2 seconds, it's all a blur. Best, Christopher

What is the shutter speed? These Axis cameras go as low as 2 seconds. Try posting a simple walk test (normal speed walking across the FOV). Best, Christopher

Don't use camera motion. I missed the Cartell magnetic sensor. Why is the camera triggering the light? Why not the magnetic sensor? Best, Christopher

Cover the components in a bowl of uncooked rice. Rice is an excellent method for drying wet electronic devices. Best, Christopher

Use a relay. Altronix is one popular source. As for using a camera as an alarm, don't do it. Use a photo beam or motion sensor, but don't use a camera. It's fine for the alarm to trigger the camera to take photos, but don't use the camera to trigger the alarm. Also, if you use motion sensors, it's quite easy to arm and disarm using a fob or other mechanism. Best, Christopher