dvrtiger

Provide us with some info, ratings should be written on the chassis, PCB, on the old fuse...I suppose it's a common 5x20 glass fuse. Probably one (or two) main fuse at the mains side, and several for the outputs.

Just bundle and solder all yellow wires together (12V) to one binding post and most of black ones to the other one, and follow my guide for the rest of the circuit (shorting green and black, resistor, etc...). Wires are just outputs, rails will be open at the transistor level. P.S. you should use shrinking tube or isolating tape on all other unused red, orange..etc.. wires to avoid unwanted shorts and 'sudden' blackout in your house

I agree with CCTV_Suppliers, firmware doesn't have anything to do with video, it's 'just' for other dome functions and to provide protocol for communication. And I also agree that lens arrangement could cause problems with zoom factor.

Well, Linux used on DVRs is embedded OS, which means that it's very tightly connected with hardware base on which it's running. Only it's kernel is used, to drive basic stuff like HDDs, video outputs and as a basis for H.264 compression. It isn't so easy to modify it as end user, because you really have to know hardware of DVR used, and DVR is dependent on FPGA logic which is probably locked. But, on the other hand, as an open source solution, it's always much easier to moode viewer software to suite personal needs! Linux embedded is OS of choice for cheaper, made in China, DVRs, because kernel is open source so it cuts development( or duplicating ) costs!

Oh, yes, I like it's dome style housing, almost as a fire alarm detector!

Use condenser microphones with built in phantom power supply and preamp...don't use dynamic mic, because they are usually directional with short range, used in PA. Condenser are better for human voice on longer range and are far more sensitive. If price is not an issue, use AKG. Or, if it is, use cheep electrec ones with DIY electronics.

Put camera/-s where it/they will have the greatest viewing angle over the audience with least possible dead angles..cover entrances/exits...avoid running coax or cat cable parallel to mains power conduits...define the most optimum route toward DVR...provide power supply routes for main and backup power supply...etc.

You have to make these steps for reliable PSU operation, if you want to turn it, and forget all about it. Shorting black and green wire will simply start up your power supply but it will not open all 12V rails. That's why you need to short black and orange wires. Resistor should be installed to provide full power on 12V rails without any load present on 5V rails, which is expected by ATX PSU electronics (5V level is 'master' level in this units).

Simply shorting green and black wire is not enough for continuous operation. You also need to do following steps: -short orange (+3.3V) and brown (sense) wires to provide feedback loop for internal stabilization and power factor correction -10ohm/10W resistor between red (5V) and black (0V) wire You can also add a LED indication by connecting 330ohm resistor on gray (output OK) wire in series with LED anode, and LED cathode is connected on black wire.

Yes, I agree, convert an ATX power supply, it's dirty, cheep and straightforward for DIY. It will provide 10-12 amps of clean and stable 12VDC. But, I wouldn't recommend it if you don't absolutely know what you are doing! It's a switching power supply in flyback configuration which can get you fried as a steak!

You have to delete all registry keys added by GV installation...manually or by means of some software, like Total uninstall or something like that

Well, in such cases there isn't much what you can do, because this problem shows it self quite randomly, so any repairs are at the edge of black magic. I suppose there is something wrong with flash or NVM memory of these devices. Sometimes constant power cycling of device for 5-6 times is sufficient to forcefully load 'backup' firmware memory banks which override corrupted memory banks. Sometimes, I also remove battery and drain all capacitors around flash memory to force it to load defaults. But, in some cases, I had to dispose unit and cannibalise it for spare parts Anyway, if you manage to unblock the unit, flash it with latest firmware just in case.

I had in our service shop, several units with the same simptom, they just decided to 'forget' their admin password '0000', and resetting to factory default didn't help! I think it's a very 'nice' firmware issue.

SM5964 can be re-programed in circuit, it's an ISP microcontroler. Look at datasheet for header pinouts and procedures. EDIT: http://www.syncmos.com.tw/products.php?c1=2

You should try to locate software tool for Maxtor products and use it to zero fill your HDD. Zeroing will erase any traces of boot sectors, page files etc.

Only 7.2? Then you have a faulty 12V bus on your power supply, probably 12V regulator or filter electrolytics. You should take your HDD out of DVR and hook it up on ATX PSU (to start it, short green and black wire on 24 pin molex) just to see will it spin. If your DVRs power supply shows such a low voltage, don't even try to put a new HDD in it, you could burn motors on HDD!

Flashing red LED indicates that your power supply is 99% fine, it's an internal indication that 5V DC is present for motherboard electronics. Just to be sure, take a multimeter and check if there are 12V and 5V on molex connector of your HDD. If your DVR worked before you replaced HDD an rebooted it, you should check for any loose wires and flat cables which you probably pulled out during repairs. Your worst case scenario would be that you have a dead processor caused by clumsily done hard reset (current drained from capacitors during this process is sufficient to damage it if you touched anything else with the same metal tool beside those two pads)

We use normal button cells without any problems, CMOS drains only few uA

You won't have any problems, we use 16:9 monitors all the time. If you experience any problems, all monitors have built in picture adjustment functions.

Ok, thanks, I'll give it a try!

Hi, I have a problem with one DVR unit. I think it's a Silverline JPEG2000 based DVR, but I'm not quite sure because there are no labels of any kind on it ( so I've posted some pictures of it). My problem is that we got it into our service shop for servicing, but someone has set password and I'm unable to remove it, so I'm unable to enter menu. If someone is familiar with this dvr and knows how to reset password and is able to help me, I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance!

Yes, listen for Scorpion's advice, don't play with new hard drive or firmware, just install it!

You could have a bad HDD, thermal overload or lose solder joints. Try to swap hard drive with the new good one. If this doesn't help, open your dvr and start it, than put your finger on processor, memory and IDE controller (all those big chips ). If you can't hold it on some of them, than you have thermal overload caused by 'leaking' current and you should send it for repair!

Why bother with cloning the old disk? Leave the old one with customer... Regular disk replacement is not so needed because of some sudden crashes, more because bad sector can show on it during it's life span... and you live happily thinking that everything is just fine with hard drive, but when you need the record-well, frozen playback image won't be a very happy discovery for your customer...

I use java version 1.6, latest release. Version 1.5 had some issues with compatibility of older software written in java. You can test your java virtual machine on this page: http://www.javatester.org/version.html