Tailbone215

Try this. http://www.amazon.com/Lumatrol-Voltage-Control-Swivel-LCS-612D/dp/B000NVBS3O

I know it is no problem using the old Nikon lens via adapter to work with CCTV cameras, but what about the new lenses? Thanks.

That looks like a cheap low quality switching power supply. My suspicion is you are picking up stray noise from poor filtering. Send it back and spend the money on a good one or go 24VAC.

I would suspect your problem being those substandard twist-on connectors. They are a step better than the F connectors you replaced. Using anything other than crimp-ons is inviting trouble and puts you in the same light as the hack that used the F connectors.

Personally, I would keep the DVR(s) as centrally located to the analog cameras as possible and stick with the shortest runs of copper as possible. There's no point in running fiber to each individual camera unless you are using some super bandwidth hungry IP camera or are in an environment where the security requirements are so stringent the customer is worried about tapping or piggybacking. If you are wiring up a large campus where distance between each building/node is large, I would use IP cameras with copper runs to the switch in each building and fiber to the central monitoring and storage location for bandwidth and reliability issues. And don't forget to use plenum cable. You will also have to consider the cost of termination and converters on each end of the fiber run. Also, keep in mind that each node/building would need its own backup power system as I have seen great installations neglecting this simple protection and are extremely vurnerable to power outages or malicious shutdowns. So, the bottom line is to keep it as simple as possible to minimise costs. Fiber is great in the right application, but one must factor in all costs associated with properly deploying a bulletproof system.

Yes, absolutely. This stuff is used for patch cables on HDTV broadcast trucks. Buy a high quality brand name cable (Belden) or other MIL spec manufacturer and you will have no worries. Like any other thing to be considered when using thin cables, use high quality and keep runs as short as possible to avoid loss. As pointed out, 100' runs shouldn't be a problem with quality cable.

If this unit doesn't have a weather tight grommet you can go to Home Depot or one of your favorite electrical distributors and get a pack of duct seal. It is a non-hardening putty/clay that is very sticky and waterproof. Make sure everything is dry before closing the housing. Also, add a pack of silica gel. Just to add, it sounds like you have moisture already trapped.

Thanks for the info. Do you have any links to the sites that offer specs and possibly pricing of this stuff? I'm not sure how cost effective this would be if one had to retrofit and piggyback an existing traveler cable on older elevators.

The problem with this is you are limited to what type of cable provisions and what spares are inside the traveller cable that is already installed between the car and machine room. You are not going to be installing any new cable. So, the simplest solution for you is to use the extra pair of COM cables that is used for the phone and a set of baluns. This is where you need to get the elevator service company involved as this question is more suited to them and your specific installation.

You might want to post the exact model number of what you have. Since this is using RS485 you are only using two wires for comm this should help. http://www.connecttech.com/sub/Products/cable_pinout.htm

Yep! Kick butt connectors! These simply don't fail.

This is definitely an area where you need consult the prospective fire system company in the immediate future, especially if you are considering proprietary equipment such as Simplex/Grinell. Without looking at you particular installation I would bet you have the basic infrastructure already installed, at least cabling to run MAPNET II bus. Of course, with panel change comes the need to update all devices on the system to meet current code since the chances of what you now have will not be allowed to be grandfathered in. Great strategy as it is always a great idea to add extra access or conduit if you already have the walls open. It's a safe bet that any connection you need made to your fire system can be made anywhere on the comm bus, especially if it is of recent vintage (10-15 years). I didn't think your were adding anything to the fire system since you didn't mention locations that are using magnetic locks or anything that goes above and beyond a typical access control system. On a side note. If you aren't already using a Knox Box system in your building you might want to look into it. We recommend these to property owners that don't have 24/7 staffing with full access to all vital areas during an emergency situation. Great way to minimise property damage when firefighters or EMTs need immediate access. http://www.charmeck.org/Departments/Fire/Fire+Prevention+Bureau/Knox+Box+Program.htm Good luck and keep us posted with your progress.

It looks like the industry is going from bad to worst with this gimmick. One can see the glaring fail points in this system. A good quality compression fitting is the quickest and best way to go. Next they will be trying to force those dreaded twist-on connectors down our throats.....

Maybe I misunderstood what the OP said "Is it possible for fire alarms to appear on access control displays?" I'm assuming he is looking for simple visual indications on the same screen without control of doors. Maybe just to save desk space? I'm not seeing the benefit of this other than to satisfy a curiosity and possibly a redundancy of an annunciator panel that should be in the same room/station where personal will be monoriting. For fire/life safety the door access overrides is best suited to be controlled via fire panel using dry contacts and programming parameters per local, state, and national fire codes will have to be adhered to. I totally agree! great info and I wish him the best in getting this system streamlined and integrated.

Anything is possible, but why would you want this? Fire alarm systems are separate standalone systems that are complex enough without integrating them into questionable quality CCTV/access systems.. If you feel the need to have total monitoring you can have remote satellite annunciator panels installed at key locations by your fire alarm company, which you probably already have. The other question is the fire alarm system remotely or locally monitored? . Simplex and Edwards makes some really nice annunciators.

Semi-retired.

I must say this is very good advice! I think the issue here is this is a clear example of attempting to charg the end-user what the market will bear. Senile citizen homes and other sheltered communities are a cash cow in Florida. The original poster seems to have a good grasp on the scope of the work, we don't. My feeling is there's a lot of room for negotiation before committing to contract. I can safely say you'll have no problem getting this work done by them for 25% less what they are asking now. A lot of these commercial installs are insanely easy.

Are they throwing in a case of Vaseline? If not you are getting screwed! While I must admit that does sound a bit high, it might not be due to the scope of work involved. How many installers/helpers and days will they be on site till this is fully turnkey? My feeling is this installer smells deep pockets. Get a few other estimates and try to be an educated consumer that has a basic idea of the scope of the project and its costs.

Speco, one word = GARBAGE!

Yes, it will spread the light and do a good at it. Not knowing the scope of what you're trying to do, the specs of the IR emitter, and at what distance makes it difficult to answer your question. You already have the IR emitter so it would be easy and cheap at this point to go to Home Depot and pick up a defuser and experiment.

The lens built into each LED usually determines angle of radiation. You might be able to open up the fixture and bend a curve in the PC board, but it might not yield much more width. What I would do if distance isn't a major factor is to cut a piece of fluorescent light fixture grid, the clear diamond pattern, and put that in front of the LEDs, preferably inside the fixture. This will diffuse the light a great deal and remove any hotspots. You'll probably have near 180 degrees of radiation.

You guys really got to get back to basics. All this fancy new technology is warping your brains! The proper way to do this is make all your connections with a nice tight "Western Union" splice. Now, if you want to be a true technological rebel you can always hit these "Western Union" splices with some Kester solder and a 15-watt soldering pencil followed by some heat-shrink tubing. Now that's a splice that will never fail or induce problems in your runs.

Thanks.

I'm looking to future proof my installations and wonder what the pros out here are using for Windows 7 64-bit and 32-bit installs? While we are all comfortable with XP it will no longer be supported by Microsoft in 2014. Since a lot of my clients are slowly shifting to the 64-bit platform,l I want to be ready and not have to reinvent the wheel by suffering through trial and error sessions. Hopefully this post won't get deleted. Mods, if you feel this post is inappropriate for this forum please PM and let me know what I need to do to conform to the forum standards. Thank you.

Don't know as I never had a need for it. Anything is possible. Try directly contacting this dealer as they seem to have or can get just about anything cable related.