Tailbone215

I've always use the RS232 to RS485 adapters myself. Black Box makes a really nice one that does two or four wire RS485. It has internal dip switches to give you a multitude of configuration options. These are very easy to use. There's a great deal on eBay for them at $9.99. If interested do a search on "BLACK BOX DVT CON-4T2 RS485/232" There are also many imported ones out there in the same price category that work well. These are ideal for PTZ. As others have said, use two wires. I have never had the need for four wire (duplex) RS485. Good luck with your new PTZs.

This is exactly what I'm looking for!! Win 7 support. Almost too good to be true. Thanks for posting..

I wish it were that easy. Most US shops don't know how to or have the desire to do component level diagnostics and repairs. If they do,l they charge more than what a replacement unit will cost.

This won't work as the PS is built in.

I use a Sears Craftsman torque wrench to properly torque my twist-on BNC connectors.

Are there any sites that compare readily available products from different manufacturers? Primarily cameras, power supplies, and NVR software?

John Honovich's IP Video Market Info (http://ipvideomarket.info/), CCTV Labs (http://www.cctvlabs.com/), Video Surveillance Guide (http://www.video-surveillance-guide.com/), Info4Security (http://www.info4security.com/section.asp?navcode=127). Try a web search for "cctv systems reviews". Thanks for the links. I got them bookmarked just in case they mysteriously disappear. I know I won't be asking you gents about what brand of BNC connectors you guys like.

Serious question. Why would you want to use twist-on connectors over the newer compression connectors? Both are quick and take little labor to install. Only reason I see is the installer not having the proper tools to get the job done.

One other area to ponder. What if you the installer leave the job site knowing you did all your twist-on connectors perfectly and get a call from the customer that some have failed? You scratch your head and ask yourself how can that be? You get there and see braid hanging out the sides of a few. Who tampered with them? The customer or another contractor? Who do you blame? Is it worth asking the customer? Since compression connectors are one-time deals you remove all doubt. From a price point and labor factor I see no reason to use twist-ons. Deliver quality and finality to your customers.

Don't get me wrong, I do agree that a properly installed twist-on is reliable and secure when the tech knows how to do it. I have no problems installing them because I know it will be done right. I don't use them because it might give the appearance of a hack job. Throughout the years I've seen and corrected more twist-on disasters than crimp or compression. If I'm going to charge to correct someone else's slop I'm not going to reuse their connectors. It looks tacky and takes more time explaining to the customer. Snip, trash, and replace is the logical way to go. The bottom line is if an installer can't get something as basic and elemental as terminating a cable end right the first time it looks bad for the industry as a whole.

True, but I think one must distinguish between a quality install vs a quick and convenient get your butt out of there install. They have the same idea in the electrical trade, at least in the US. One can properly wire receptacles a switches by using the screws. The quick and dirty way is to use the push-in wiring holes. While it is NEC accepted they make a great fail point, especially when under load since they can't carry the current because of lack of surface area between wire and device. I've seen to many of them fail, especially when receptacles are wired in series. I would rather waste a few more seconds doing the right instead of wasting time and embarrassment of a callback.

I must admit I kinda like them as I get to clean up the previous installer's mess and make some quick pocket change. In fairness twist-ons can be good if properly installed. The issue is finding a tech that actually knows how to correctly install them is the real challenge.

If you are doing mobile installations, especially ones you don't want to revisit because of quality issues, you might want to consider using RG-179 cable as it is extremely thin. You can get the good stuff, silver plated copper shielding and center conductor which reduces loss considerable. This stuff is MIL spec and is extremely durable. You can also get this stuff in RG-59 as well. I wouldn't use the cheap stuff in mobile installations and I would avoid twist-on BNC connectors at all costs in this environment. Here's a link to some RG-179 cables with BNC on both ends. http://www.stonewallcable.com/product.asp?dept_id=3013&pf_id=SC-7232

It shouldn't be a problem if the PS is of somewhat decent quality and it in a metal enclosure that provides adequate shielding. I've been cleaning up a site yesterday where the moron installer decided to put four cams per single Altronix SMP3 board supplies. He basically screwed the PS to the wall and, of course, none of these runs are fused. Use decent equipment and mount it properly and you won't have any problems. Unless you see glaring installation problems and aren't getting interference I wouldn't worry.

Totally agree! I'm a bit sceptical of major visual changes claims for the better because of a cable change. Sure, it can have a major impact on long runs or going from faulty of super inferior cable. All the system parameters should be stated so one can make a better determination of what is really happening.

How long are your cable runs?

This camera is so well sealed it shouldn't have any problems being submerged under water. You wouldn't have any problems mounting this directly to the side of a building. Under an eave, no worries.

Pop the backs of these units and see who the manufacturer is. If it is LG you are screwed as the PS are available but they won't sell to end users or anyone other than an authorised service center. I been through this and it was more economical and less time consuming for me to take a hammer to the LCD panel of the seven I had and purchase newer and more improved models.

I'd be more inclined to believe this is an ethically challenge dealer that sold you customer returns without even checking them. Highly doubtful Panasonic would compromise their reputation over a few cameras. You might want to dig further as you might find this dealer might have lost their "authorized" reseller status if they ever had one. Sadly, more often than not we deal with resellers that knowingly claim they are "authorized" by flat out deception. The way I would handle this is to e-mail (preferably) and state your case while demanding a full refund and a UPS ARS label so you don't have to pay return shipping. If they are unresponsive simply let them know that you will be contacting your credit card company to start the chargeback process. I've gotten to the point that I won't play with ethically challenge dealers and cut them no slack when they try to jerk the customer around. If you don't mind saying what dealer you bought these from as I like to keep a running list of who not to deal with. Also, if this dealer handles your problem without hassle and you feel this could be an honest mistake, let us know as well. I always like to be fair

Because it's as plain as day in a pair of binoculars which I use for astronomy and bird watching or in a digital SLR camera zoomed in. He opened the back of it several times and I looked from my back door. Maybe your neighbour is retaliating against you for looking at him and his property with your binoculars? This sounds like the classic "who threw the first stone" and that has already been forgotten about by all the escalation. One thing I've learned about neighbour disputes, while they are very funny and childish with a lot of entertainment value I prefer them to stay up the street and not spill on my property. My suggestion is to work it out like adults and get over it. I'm so glad I have wonderful neighbours.

It might be the right one that came with the camera, but that doesn't mean it is compatible with your computer. I'm assuming you are using a PC based DVR instead of a stadalone? If so, what operating system? If you are running a PC the ideal way to do this is use a real serial port (if you have one) and plug your RS485 adapter in there. The problem comes in when using a USB adapter as some simply emulate the serial but provide no actual hardware uart. If you are using a USB serial adapter always confirm that it has the FTDI chipset, all others are crap.

Sounds like a com problem. Try reversing your wires from the RS485 converter to the PTZ as they sometimes can be polarity sensitive. Of course, check all your com setting on the serial port and verify if they are correct. Also, if all else fails, some serial to USB adapters have that OTHER chipset that doesn't work well and gives conflict. Try another adapter.

A general rule of thumb is to have a separate power supply for each camera (not practical on large installs) or a multi-circuit unit of 4-8-16-32 (fused) for larger permanent installs. The benefits of a fused PS is if one circuit gets shorted accidentally or intentionally your other cams will be unaffected.

Don't discount the use of electrical tape as I have installations I did 20-years back and the good old 3M tape is doing its job. Coax-Seal is some good stuff if, like you said, installed properly. I would limit my application of Coax-Seal to bulkheads and other hard to secure areas where tape can't be properly applied.

Agreed! But, as usual, always check the camera's manufacturer's specs to confirm voltage range.