Lesst

I wouldn't use wireless, since you have power use powerline adapters with PoE at the cameras. That way you don't have any wireless security and speed issues. I have had powerline with PoE camera up 24/7 for many years. Rock solid technology.

Talk to an expert at https://www.altestore.com/store/ Solar done right isn't cheap for even a small load. A big expensive deep cycle battery or 2 are needed as well.

I install in outside cabinets in Florida and I have had no failures by removing the outer case and using a 6" fan blowing onto the circuit board.

I have installed very few PTZ cameras for clients because of cost but I now have an opportunity. I am concerned that when the client uses the PTZ function, they will not change the view back to optimum coverage. I know I have seen a return 'home' feature on some expensive PTZ cams. Does anyone know of any reasonably priced ($500-$1K) PTZ cameras (Brand) that have this feature? It seems a lot harder to get user docs from most low cost suppliers of cameras.

I would use some aluminum or stainless steal plate, thick enough and a little wider than the cameras back plate wall mount to mount the camera onto. Then use U Bolts the width of the pole to attach. Not knowing how the camera mounts you may have to have the U against the plate (rather than the nuts inside the back of the camera mount which would be unaccessible) and if you do you will have to space it out onto another plate layer where the U Bolt and plate connect to the pole and the camera plate is attached to the pole plate. You will also need to consider where to have wire access into the mounting plate(s) I have lots of other ideas but this is the simplest for me to explain today

Thanks, I didn't mention that IE on Win10 was an option, but I'm looking for a non IE / browser option that is free or cheaper than $50USD

I use simple apps on my photne to watch my cameras (IPcamViewerPro) and or DVRs. When at home and in the office I use IE to view with Activex. The new browsers and Windows 10 don't like Activex security vulnerabilities. I have used BlueIris and other full programs before, but is there a simple and free web viewer program for Windows that eliminates the need to use an Activex browser, and has a nice interface?

Mr OK_Duck you can't get something from nothing. I think I see a 7 as the first numeral of a second row. The CSI videos are not true; you cannot make such a small image any better. There are somethings besides tag numbers that i use often to catch culprits. Just last week a property manager and I couldn't quite make out a tag but the But the red Buicks bumper had a sticker on the back. I told her to drive the lot's around dusk and sure enough the tag started with the 7 we saw and had the same sticker. They are now paying for repair of the gate they broke. That motorcycle has unique lines. Sit out and watch it go by some day. I know that’s a long shot but I wanted to make a point that getting a tag isn’t always a dead end. We also caught some kids on a golf cart breaking a gate because the teenage girls pony tail was huge and very distinctive. The next morning at the bus stop there they were, dads now buying that property a new gate now too. Good Luck, Be safe and install 1080P or higher resolution cameras, it's 2015 for gosh sakes plus quality image IP cameras 1080P and higher MPs are now cheaper than a good name brand analog camera.

In my opinion CIF recording is worse than the VHS your replacing. CIF is 320x240 pixels where VHS is at least full frame. You won’t see much of anything at ¼ frame CIF resolution. You want a DVR with full frame D1 recording for analog.

You may need a hybrid DVR that can record analog cameras with coax connections and IP cameras that will connect through the one network cable connected to the router/switch. I have had good luck for many years with Aver 4, 8 and 16 channel EH series DVR's They are reasonable for what you get price wise. Not all cameras can connect so Aver has a list of cameras that work. Also many are ONVIF compliant and will work that way but it's not basic networking to set up.

You are right. Every panel supplier will have a different design inside, thus you have to pull a few breakers on each side to expose the bus bars to know what breakers sit on each bus.

Most electric boxes have 2 rows or column of breakers and every other breaker is on the same leg. It is not usually set up so the left column of breakers is one leg and right the second. It’s every other breaker that is on the left bus. You have to use a circuit breaker tracer to find both breakers then look to see if they are on the same physical bus. If you are not an electrician don’t do it, especially if it is not your property, get a pro. One frustrating thing about this business is everyone wants it done cheap, and paying for an electrician can be a barrier to get or do a job. I am just trying to lay out every possible scenario here from my many years of mistakes, in hopes it helps someone get through a powerline install in the future. I deal with many an old house, poor wiring, old dimmers that buzz, and pass along my experience to optimize a powerline network connection.

I had bad luck in connecting through a sub panel, but I only had one instance: a row of small plane hangars that I tried it out on. The first trick if you have a problem is to be on the same hot leg out of the main. You may have to get your network service near or to an outlet that also shares the sub panel bus. You can also find a trick by searching: X-10 .1uF Coupling Capacitor. I am not an electrician so I don’t touch electric circuits, and the capacitor is across the 2 hot legs to allow the signal to pass. The new 500mps powerline adapters have very good filtering. You may not get 500 but they will have the best throughput possible. To check the line noise you can plug in an old non digital AM radio and hear the line static, if it's overpowering, usually a dimmer, that's what the adapter has to deal with, if not too noisy you should get great throughput

I use the Trendnet EoP adapters quite often, and if they work in your test they will work for long periods of time with no problems. I just came from servicing a camera system in an old home used for an attorneys practice. I made a decorative box that had the wall plug wire into it which had my EoP and PoE adapters inside, and then ran out the CAT5 inside wiremold painted to room color up to the camera mounted in the corner, then slid the box under a piece of furniture. This system has been up solid for over 3 years. I can't believe that only one manufacture (LevelOne PLI-3110 = $200 +/- USD) makes a powerline product with a PoE out, but it's expensive. I hope Trendnet will make one for under $100 USD soon, please. They work between brands too, as they follow the HomePlug AV standard. I have used the Western digital Livewire with 4 ports out to a home TV, Netflix, PCTV, setup connected from a Trendnet at the router. I use the EoP TPL-304E with a Lan Power LP-2115 PoE adapter plugged into the “bonus” outlet on the Trendnet for its relative compact size.

Different country’s and carriers, different rules. Where in the world are you? You have not noted in your profile. I have set up WiMax in Florida, but had to use a Cradlepoint router to be able to control the subnet, open ports, within the WiMax connection, don’t use port 80, assign ports. Most terms don't allow constant video streaming on WiMax network, so I had to tune in sparingly, and the DVR recorded locally if we needed to review cameras.