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Click it or select it and enter, it is the DVR, they have a dedicated IP for it! I am getting the same thing - got a port number?

A lot of times there is an Insufficient foam gasket or seal preventing the IR light from bouncing back. If you take the dome off it will probably go away. This is a limitation with some dome IR cams. I was once able to improvise a ring with some electrical tape (but not with that make/model).

For what it us worth download the free windows xp virtual machine and use the dvr software on that to see if there are any differences. Other than that there are a lot of variables like the wireless connection, router and/or dvr.

How old is the computer and its operating system? I've seen laptops/pcs fail at getting any type of video, especially over a wireless connection, with older service packs and/or incapable video cards. Plus its never a great idea to rely on a wireless connection for extended use of video like cctv.

Have you looked into an RS485 to USB converter Also this may help you http://www.cctvforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=29607

But in order to rule out the DVR as a problem have you tried another temporary camera on each video input (or at least the known input where there is no video) on the DVR? Ideally, having a pre-made coax with BNC female on both ends (like a patch cord) connected to the camera/power source and DVR would be a good way to know for sure if the camera and DVR are okay. You can make a temp jumper wire if needed. Right, so you can rule out a cut in the wire. If you have the required camera power at the camera end of the wire and you have tested a working camera on a short jumper cable near the DVR (and the camera works) it's time for a new wire run. From what you are posting it does seem there are other issues especially if you get a tone on the other end. So the only real solution to this is running a new wire.

It has to be one of three things (or maybe a combination): you are either placing the receiver on the wrong wire; the wire is pinched allowing the tone but not video, the camera and/or power source is bad. Have you tried another camera on the wire in question? What about power at the camera? Do you have enough? A digital voltage tester would come in handy to rule out power issues. If you used the tone and probe set that I listed above and you are getting a tone on the other end of the wire (opposite wire end of the transmitter) the wire is clearly not cut. Any signal received at the other end would indicate the wire is okay.

A little more detail regarding how you conducted the test would help otherwise I can only offer the following: It is a pretty simple operation; first thing to do is place the tone generator on one end of the wire (say the DVR end), turn the unit on then go to the camera end of the wire with your probe. If there is a tone the wire is fine as it is uninterrupted. If there is no tone start working backwards until you hear a tone..that is the location of the wire break.

The two common guys I know of on this forum is Sean or Rory from bahamas security. They should be able to help you.

These are High School kids walking home after a football game one Friday night as I was out walking around the yard. They spotted me watching them so the boy demonstrated his might in front of the girls.

These are CNB VBM 24VFs going on their 4th year and I have no complaints about them other than wishing they would switch to BW more easily. I am in the Northeast and subject to the full force of mother nature's 4 seasons. They keep on ticking. After these were installed I learned about the VCM model (with back box) and wished I knew about them. Then I had the chance to install the VCM and the back box made life a lot easier for accommodating wire connections, baluns etc. There has been no problems with water/moisture getting in.

Well, if it does not have to be box, I've used CNB's VBM 24VF and they have been great especially in low light. Also look at a suggestion from Rory on the forum: KT&C 700 TVL bullet cams. 123security has some good prices on both those. Both cams are well covered here. Also check out Rory's website for good examples of the kt&c cams.

I am looking at a 16 channel Pro hybrid from 3xLogic; they are telling me I need a RS-485 converter to go from one of the server's USB ports to RS-485 so that my analog PTZ camera can work. The regional integrator for 3xLogic is telling me their converter is $215. After a little research I found this: And would I need the item below to connect the data cables of two PTZ analog cams right? Both items I can get on amazon for about $90; am I missing something?

Thanks all. Matt, did you see my PM from a few days ago?

Absolutely. The forward/reverse switch is on the bottom of the handle.

I just purchased the RH328VC in December. It is a life saver! With new bits it drills quickly and smoothly - very little vibration.

It would help if the cameras accepted 24 VAC to minimize interference; shielded Cat6 would also help. But, yes, at least 6 inches from the 120V

What is the minimum power requirement for the camera?

I purchased one of these from Home Depot, it has a Coax connector. You turn the tone on, take your probe and touch the cable at multiple locations. Once the probe tool goes silent you can narrow your search for the break. This one is less expensive but it gets the job done.

This may help you regarding Voltage drop at that distance, especially with 12 VDC: http://www.cat5videobaluns.com/voltage-loss-calculator.html At that distance I'd look into powering the cams locally if you can. And I am pretty sure the baluns use 1 pair for video. There is a lot of balun discussion on this forum; look around and you will find the answer.

You can use 1 pair on baluns, at both ends, and the other 3 together for power back to the central power supply

Add printer from contoll panel's devises and printers. Selelect TCP/IP, then add the IP address of printer, let it search for it then load printer software. This is from memory and I may not have explained it exactly...but google this process or play with it on you're own and you will get it.

Thanks, I have been researching these since you mentioned it. I signed up for an account at 3xLogic and waiting to hear back. Do you have a ballpark of what their Pro and DRX models go for? I would need a 16 channel. Are there any particular IP cams you have had success with in using their hybrid? I just was just asked to provide some pricing for a DVR upgrade. Usually when this happens I have a good shot at getting something good since they have the funding.

Soundy, 2 questions: 1. What is the quickest way to terminate the Cat5 at both ends? I'd like to try this configuration some day but concerned that making the RJ-45s will take too much time. Then again I am no expert with this stuff. Also, I may get funding to replace our 16 channel PC based DVR. Can you recommend some? I am not sure what the budget is yet but sometimes they give me a bunch to spend.

If they have the codes they will. Always a good idea to change passwords