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Isn't there some kind of professional wireless internet solution like outdoor mounted wireless antenna on Building A. Then some kind of wireless Ethernet bridge on Bld B to pick up the signal from A and connect to the DVR? Or is this Sci Fi?

You probably know this by now but.... Not sure if I can say specific web page services for DDNS in this forum. But some have a free updater you can download to a computer on the same network as the DVR. Some DVRs and Routers accept the DDNS service and you will not need the software. Just keep in mind the updater software only works when the computer is on. In my case, at home, we have the software on the laptop and that is turn on everyday so the IP is regularly updated. Works well and able to see the home cameras from work every day.

Sean, I have always wondered about this configuration for PTZs. I never installed them but will soon and could use whatever pictures you post. I remember the installer telling me you can tie-in all PTZs together to the 485 in the back and designate through proper PTZ address. I see how he did it but I just don't get it.

I've installed a bunch of these and never saw a black slotted mask. I always thought they did not have one

Dispite hours playing with them at night I was not completly satisfied.

Rory, any chance for a couple of day/night shots from the camera once their set?

I have two of these PTZ cameras that will have to move to another building (we're moving) and want to mount them properly on corner mounts. I have no specifics on the type of camera so, judging by the attached picture, can I get by with something like this: Or do you guys have a better idea of what I should get?

I have the same set up: Two RG6 plus cat5 coming from the left and 1 Rg6 plus cat5 coming from the right. All wires are run through 3/4 PVC conduit connected to a T junction (below) then running into house just above foundation. I used a 1 inch bit for the whole into the house, cemented a 8 inch 3/4 tube onto the junction box running into the crawl space and used Silicone to cover any holes. All wires were terminated after the run or they would have never made it through the holes/junction boxes.

I have a separate cheap IR in the back yard with the VBM; it is dark back there. The image is impressive. For the VBM looking at the cars in a parking lot (some street lights available) the motion flood is perfect; more so than when I experimented with the IR. It seems one would not need a strong flood or spot with the VBMs; I have a 65 Watt flood and it is plenty for the 30-35 feet view I need. Of course, individual needs vary.

You saw this post right? http://www.cctvforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=22339 I only have experience with the VBMs and, in some locations, had to make the connections with the RG6 and Cat5 inside the dome. I was able to tuck the cables in there nicely. I've got to imagine you will have plenty of room with the VCM. Soundy would know for sure.

...and how are the wires hooked up? Pictures are great to help. Whatever answers you get would help me since I plan on installing a keyboard someday for 2 PTZs

Hope these picks are what you need. Let me know if you need more screen shots.

As some of you know I have a bunch of the CNB VBM 24VFs installed around the building. I have a DVR that records 240 FPS for 16 cams. I do not know the brand or other specifics but I can post the numbers from the Spec sheet if needed. My main question involves the camera's shutter speed. In the attached photo from the cam you will see a police officer ready to chase a homeless person from sleeping in that location. Notice how the officer and lettering on his car are blurred. Still images that close to the camera are usually not that blurred day or night. I see there are selectable options for shutter speed: 1/60, 1/120, 1/250, 1/500, 1/700, 1/1k, 1/1600 and up to 1/120k. I left it at default 1/60 Should I make adjustments?

I have been wondering what DVR this is for a long time. All I have is this Spec Sheet (it has 2 TB instead of 1). If you can make heads or tails out of what kind it is more power to ya. All I know is it was shipped to the installer who has his company's name on the DVR software when you boot it up. I was never really confident in the type of DVR but cops love it since it gives them what they need in this neighborhood to make arrests. Since I am perfectionist your question/statement, Rory, has me interested. Do you see any room for adjustments on the DVR? I can take pictures of the darn thing if needed but I don't have much to go on. Those Model Numbers are: 16 DVR 4B84188-221 (I think) - very hard to read

I played around with it today on this cam. I took these directly from the DVR: before shot is CIF 15 FPS and after is 4CIF 3 FPS. Is this something you would do?

Rory, I'm confused. Did you mean for me to take it off CIF? If so here are my 3 options for each cam. Looks like the frame rate will slow down.

Thanks soundy. I'll leave as is since its kinda dark back there any way.

I needed a wider lens for this camera and was told, by CNB, there are no other removable lenses. My guess is they have a proprietary lens on it but this is just a guess with my limited experience.

I secured a 24VF directly to the drop ceiling tile support with supplied self tapping screws; drilled hole large enough for connectors to fit. It is very secure, albeit this is metal tile supports

Although I have a different DVR all I did was find the IP of the DVR (mine comes up on restart), enter that in the router's port forwarding range and enable the ports so the router can find the DVR. Then, if your ISP provides you with a dynamic IP, see if the router has IP updating capability through a company like dyndns.com (a free service). In the linksys I enter my dyndns account info and the router then automatically updates your home internet IP so you can always reach your modem (directed to find the DVR through port forwarding) by entering your created dyndns hostname for the cameras. You will need to input this host-name into the DVR remote software. DYNDNS.COM has a free software download to automatically update your IP if the router does not. The problem is the computer where the software is must always be on. In my case I am on the computer a few times a day at home, especially in the morning before work, and the updater finds the internet IP and changes it when needed. Every now and then I miss it by not turning computer on and the ISP (verizon) updates the IP address. Then I call my ISP and ask for my home IP address, they always ask me why and I tell them I am checking my router from work for security. They are not crazy about using bandwith to upload cameras. I plug the correct IP in the dyndns.com website and I am good to go. Oh, if you know this already please disregard. I am going on what information was posted.

I have a CNB vcm-24vf in a location where a wider lens is needed; the 2.8 is not covering the area I need. I have searched this forum for ideas on a low light, analogue camera (24 VAC or 12 VDC) with a wide lens and can not seem to find much. I have a Panasonic WV-CW484 in another location on the same system and thinking about swapping the two and using a 2.2 CS mount fixed lens on the Panasonic for a wider view. Ideally I need a 1.9 or a 2.0. It has to be a dome because of the location, vandal proof preferred, and good in low light. There is a street lamp about 50 feet away. Any ideas?

What model did you order, exactly? I know the one we normally use - WV-CW484 - is a flush-mount design but *includes* a back-box for surface mounting, so you always have the option. Here is the link (now discontinued). All indications were surface mount: ####### The back box never came with it. I ordered 2 of these cameras at separate times. The first order included the back box.

I ordered a Panasonic SD III, surface mount, from them in April. It came fast but was a flush mount. I called them and the woman on the line asked me several times what I was talking about. It raised an eyebrow. She said she would call me back; knowing I'd never hear from them I went and dug the hole in the wall for the flush mount. It was messy but came out okay. Sure enough, they never did call me back. Camera works fine. I'd say be careful.

I have the VCMs and needed to connect a 3/4 male thread pvc end connector (picked up rubber O rings in the plumbing department to place on the threaded connector) with the conduit coming out from the inside of the building. The end connector screws into the side of the VCM housing nicely. I made all connections inside the housing and wrapped the excess wire around the circular camera mount. Everything is nice and weather proof.

In my situation the PTZ is about 200 feet from the DVR controller. RG6 was used for the original install of box camera at this location and Cat 5 was used for power. Now, with the PTZ, we needed to install a power outlet in an area close to the camera (about 15 feet away); the Cat5 is used for data. Initially we tried 3 pairs of the Cat5 for power and 1 pair for data...the camera preformed badly, cutting out etc.