Airick

http://www.difinitron.com/productpage.htm Does anybody have any experience with this? Is it worth the $600 bucks they are asking? It seems like a very handy little tool. Rori asked this once in November, but I didn't see any responses from anybody who'd actually tried it. Maybe somebody has since then.

Hi Lisa. POE standard 802.3af allows for 15W. Most PTZ cameras require more power than that. Now, a new standard, 802.3at allows for more power and I'm hoping that some new PTZs coming out will work on that standard. Until that time, I think we are out of luck. I really hope somebody else comes along and can point out a PTZ that does work on POE.

Hello All, Can somebody point me in the direction of an article or other documentation highlighting the differences between interlaced and progressive scan CCDs? Trying to figure out if progressive is a good way to go for analog or IP CCTV cameras.

Some of our cameras in Arkansas got some great shots. I'll see about a link. They posted em.

In bright light, you get a small aperature from the auto iris. Images will appear more focused through a smaller aperature. Therefore, if you set your focus in bright light and it looks good, the image may go out of focus when the light level drops. Basically, in bright light, you do not have to be as precise with your focusing controls because there is a wider range where the image will appear in focus. So, most people will tell you to focus in low light and the image will remain focues in normal and bright lighting.

Perhaps somebody here can shed some light on this for me. There are some network cameras out there that claim to provide an all-digital solution. My understanding of the way network cameras work is that an analog video signal must be converted by a video encoder and then it is able to be transmitted over the network. I understand that this can all be done at the camera and in one box, but there is still an analog signal there. Perhaps what they mean is that you do not have to run any co-ax cable when they say "all digital" solution. Is my understanding of the way these network cameras work correct?

The IR Domes we use have a gasket that squeezes up against the dome from the lens so that any IR light reflected off of inside of the dome cannot get to the lens and affect the shot.

I did some research shortly after starting this thread. CMOS chips produce a charge which is immediately converted to a voltage (analog) at pixel level. So it is basically like having thousands of 1 pixel cameras. These signals are combined, digitized, and processed on the same chip so you can get a digital signal straight off of a CMOS chip. It's a close as you can get. Composite cameras run this digital signal through a Digital to Analog converter to produce the video signal we are used to seeing. Many IP cameras digitize this cleaner analog signal (which seems redundant) to simplify their camera design. New IP designs simply use the digital signal from the camera DSP.

Just make sure your lines can handle the amperage. Our outdoor housings draw close to 2 amps with the heaters going and we are fine. It's been standard practice for awhile. We do put small boards with surge supression in the housing, however. It takes care of the split and the 24-12 conversion as well.

RS-232, 422, or 485?

between video T's and loopthroughs? Any? Can the fact that a signal is terminated in two places affect your video?

Make sure the camera you use does ok at 950. Some that do 850 will not do so hot at 950.

Do you get video when the sun goes down?

There extra letters on your "analog" Is powering a camera with solor that feasible, or were you just joking?

Thank you. And I do enjoy picking nits.

IR illuminators generally come in two different types. Near-Covert is light at 850 nm. This is close to the visible "red" ligth and therefore you get can see a slight red in the LED. Covert IR is light at 950 nm and does not give itself away with the reddish glow. One thing to check on your specs is the angle of illumination and range. If the car is 3-4 m away, then you might have trouble illuminating it all and you could end up with a useless spotlite on one point of the car and not be able to see anything around it. You could just install a motion activating floodlight. It would have the benefit of illuminating enough of the area for your cameras as well as perhaps detering the vandalism.

If you have all the LCDs you need and do not plan on buying anymore, the conversion module would be ok. If you do not, consider an LCD with a BNC connection or RCA connection. Some come with sound also if that interests you.

Are you just saying that because there is only a USB port on the DVR? There are all kinds of USB options including burners and USB hard drives. 256 MB stick will get you seconds or minutes depending on your resolution and frame rate (are there other factors that affect filesize?).

Do you live in a state where front license plates are not required?

I'm interested to see the shot you finally go if you are willing to post it.

I'm not sure what I can link to and not link to because of the board rules. We are currently looking at the Videology 20E709W for some WD captures. Here's a definition of WD I pulled from a google search:

What about trying a wide dynamic camera for this shot? It should compensate for the light differences.

If you have an ATI All-in-Wonder then it is expecting a modulated signal. You should also have an RCA video input on that card if it is what I am thinking of, in that case find a BNC to RCA adapter. Of course this doesn't work if you have a two camera minimum. You could also have issues tying this video input into your DVR software. Never tried it before.

I'm curious to your application. In cold weather enviroments, I would expect the camera to be placed in a housing with a heater.