Birdman Adam

easiest solution = plug camera composite output into a small TV. While standing on ladder/etc press buttons inside camera. Although this is a bullet, so maybe there are no buttons? Consult your manual on that. If you don't have a small monitor to view with: You need an RS485 to USB converter. Search for that online, they should be fairly cheap. Someone else here may have a specific recommendation. Once its hooked up, it will appear as a normal COM port in Windows. Then you just need some software to send the right stuff to it. I think there are many free programs for this, I searched PTZ Controller and lots of stuff came up. Someone else here must know good options? Oh, and BTW it would be awesome if you would post some sample shots - I'm curious to see how well these Samsungs perform?

I think its partly your DVR, because I never got noise like that with my 6 VCM-24VFs. A video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gi4zLasNu-w In super-dark situations, (darker than your area), you just can't see much of anything. There is some noise, but is that not to be expected?

Welcome both of you! " title="Applause" /> Wait - you guys just happened to join at near the same time, and know each other?

Rory - that comparison is awesome!! I hope these pics can be released with every set Sean does? This makes it very easy to compare - I do like CNB and the Effio w/IR cut a lot in this test.

I like the Pelco and the Effio w/IR Cut. Look at the front-left rim, these two offer more detail there.

Thanks for the insight! Over all, I think the heaters are more for keeping moisture from forming in and around the camera housing/lens.

So in the first video (gain step by step), is the view at the beginning what I would see if I stand there? How does it accomplish this? With the 'gain' up to a basically daytime picture, is there no motion blur, etc?

I have a solar floodlight at the beginning of my driveway. It has a lead-acid battery in it (12VDC, probably 5Ah), and a ~10"x10" solar panel above it. The light is incandescent. It has a motion detector that runs for 1, 3, or 5 minutes after motion. It works great! I would step it up to LEDs, so you don't need to worry about runtime when the solar panel and battery gets old.

I'd bet the iris mechanism is dying. Not much you can do, except buy better cameras!

It shouldn't really make much more. BTW, if there are vents and a spot for a vent, I would go ahead and install one if you have one laying around... I would stick to 7200RPM drives.

Beautiful place!! Make sure the DVR you buy can do D1 at at least 5FPS per channel, preferably more. Visible light is best for night-time viewing, also cheaper. Try floodlights before IR if possible. Try to get cameras with varifocal lenses so that you can adjust the zoom to get the viewing scene just right. I'd get vandal-resistant dome cameras (outdoor rated of course) so people can't mess with the cameras. Use cat5 UTP cable with baluns to get power and video to/from cameras.

You know, I bet he had walked by before and saw it. After being annoyed that he was being watched, he decided to take it later. Maybe go through some video of the past few nights at that time?

There is no benefit of 12VDC over 24VAC, other than the fact that non-dual-voltage devices usually stick with 12VDC (this could be helpful - so you only need one supply). Also, almost everyone has a 12VDc power supply sitting around if you need one in a pinch! 24VAC is better for very long and/or high-draw runs. Double the voltage = ~half the current! AC PSU's may be cheaper, as they are more simple. No SMPS to make nice DC, just take down the voltage from mains with a transformer, maybe regulate it with a PTC or fuse...

Domes are really easy to install. If you put up a Vandal Dome, it will be practically impossible to take off. 4 screwholes mount it to the wall (only accessible from the inside). The whole dome is then locked up with security bit screws (rather rare type!). There is no way to pry it off, nothing accessible except for the security screws. So short of maybe a huge sledgehammer, it will not come off!

If you can't login anywhere, just open it up and there should be a jumper to reset it inside on the mobo (motherboard).

When done properly, cat5 with baluns, as well as RG59 work equally as well. Cat5 with baluns tend to be cheaper, especially on longer runs! Also, it is easier for new people to do. Wires should not just be ran out in the open outdoors unless they are rated for it. They will probably work fine, but may become soft or brittle, and water may leach inside, eventually causing signal problems. Run any exposed wires in electrical conduit, NMC (the grey PVC) is totally fine. If you need more vandal protection, use aluminum of steel. Typically dome cameras will have threaded holes to accept the conduit with connectors. This keeps the wire secure for the whole way.

Relatives in NY had flooding like this too - actually seems as if MORE damage happened up there than here in NC! There whole basement had a couple inches, and a major highway nearby was completely washed out!

WOW! What makes people decide that they are going to do stuff like this?? Happy you got it on video at least! BTW - This is why I like vandal domes!

Yea, find a teen to test it. BTW if anyone wants to do a little DIY work, you can make these with a recorder and a smallish speaker. Use the software Audacity to generate a 14KHz - 20KHz tone. Record it, and set the recorder to repeat!

Yea, don't forget to post some video! Hope everyone's doing OK up there!

If you need to easily identify faces and need good night-vision, you may want to ignore the stuff from costco and best buy... If you want to see the position of locks on doors, maybe look into megapixel IP stuff - this stuff is expensive! But the quality is like that of an expensive DSLR camera! Identifying faces is not hard, but you need good quality stuff and proper lighting.

The whole mechanism should be secured well inside the case, so I'd say your totally fine!

I've even had $20 cameras in 5F temps with ice glazed on them, they worked fine! And this was a outdoor rated 'lipstick' style camera with a metal body!

A sandy-bridge i3 with 4GB of RAM and an SSD will be nice and fast...

Judging on temperature alone, in most situations, only when its REALLY cold - I mean well below freezing. Cameras just don't really need to be 'warm' to operate well. So I would draw the line at 0F (32F is freezing).