Birdman Adam

Surge protectors may be installed by themselves, or built-in with most UPS's. It should have a dissipation rating of at least 400 joules (more is better!) Maximum response time should be 10 nanoseconds (faster the better!) UPS stuff: You need to look at the wattage rating of your equipment, and compare it to the watt-hour capacity of the batteries inside the UPS (The size is typically shown). Example: You have a 80W DVR + 20W camera PSU, 100Wh total constant load. The UPS has a 12V, 5Ah battery. Wattage for the battery is 12 * 5 = 60Wh. To calculate runtime, do 60 / 100 = 0.6 * 60 = 36 minutes. BUT, UPS's are only usually 90% efficient (they are inverters after all), so time is really more like 30 minutes. In addition, the capacity of the battery will deteriorate over the years. In addition, look for UPS's with AVR (voltage regulation) of at most +/- 25% (less is better!).

I'd stay away from them, it looks like they only sell no-brand stuff anyways.

There is absolutely no light at all when the camera goes almost completely dark. Not even much moon I think... EDIT: The SCO-2080R is one of the better designs with IR inside the camera, basically because the IR is separated from the lens by a round shield - there are no chances of IR fogging the lens view. It does seem to be on the expensive end though! Does anyone have any test video?

Well WDR is used when you have high-contrast situations. For example, you have a camera looking at the entrance to a store with glass doors and windows. You need to be able to see the people's faces, but most regular cameras would show the faces way too dark because it is compensating for the bright outside light. WDR cameras 'even out' the contrast, so you can see the bright and dark areas just as well.

So is this actually correcting the color problems cameras have without IR cut filters? Or just fixing some of it?

The big question is, WHERE are the amps going? They should be going inline right after the DVR output. The thing is, amplifiers amplify everything, so if you stick the amp in the middle, or at each splice, your also amplifying the noise! If you amp-it-up a lot at the beginning, you should be able to reach it no-problem. Really, the best way to go is to use cat5 (or any UTP cable) and use active baluns at at least one end, probably both.

Unless you have a lot of money to spend (like $500+ per camera), you should stick with analog... For cameras, I like the Empire cameras xellbuy has (although I have not used them), and I also love CNB's Monalisa cameras (basically the 24VF series for TDN cameras). Typically standalone is best, especially for people who have never set up a DVR before (let alone a computer). You are in a good budget range to buy a fine 8-ch DVR, and possibly sneak in 1-2 CNBs or Empires. My suggestion, SRD-870DC from Samsung. You do have a big range below that mark, look for Dahua as cheaper alternatives with very similar features.

Well, the question is do you need the WDR function? Because double-scan is used to give the camera a 'wide dynamic range' (headlights don't blind it, etc). So if you don't NEED the WDR function, then it makes perfect sense to NOT use double-scan cameras, and get that slightly better low-light function.

A good TDN camera like CNB's 24VF series will eat up the light from landscape lights! Also, it will be a nice step-up from the Nuvico for sure. Seriously, they will take good advantage of it. Here is a youtube video of mine showing how well a VCM-24VF works throughout night and day: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gi4zLasNu-w You shouldn't really think of TDN "vs" IR, the best camera setup would use a TDN camera, and then built-in or (preferably) separate IR illuminators if it is too dark. If you do have some soft landscape lighting that helps to light-up the porch area (like downlights above the porch) it will be fine without any IR.

True, its not a realtime D1, but he doesn't need that. I would estimate that the camera would draw around 500mA with the IR on, but I may be wrong. So I'd go with like a 4A supply.

Do you think you could contact the ebay seller about this? Maybe there is a jumper or something that will allow you to change the video standard its using?

Just noticed this, but also look at the dark side of the dumpster. It seems some cameras handle the contrast between light/dark better. (CNB looks good there for example). Or maybe it is just the lighting conditions changing. Oh, and also, look at the edges of the truck - some cameras just kind of 'blur-over' that. You can definitely see some stand out there!

That Lorex certainly isn't a great DVR, but may be fine for you. Its true, motion-PTZs are usually not smart enough to track the right thing! They will be following a squirrel while someone steals a car! Instead I would set up multiple cameras to cover the WHOLE area.

Once the hurricane passes hopefully!

After searching around, they look to be exactly the same. The advantage of the DVI card is that 16-ch of video is to one DVI plug, and the 16-ch of audio goes in the other DVI. With the D-type (D-sub) card, you have 2 D-sub connectors to handle 16-ch, and ANOTHER two (in an audio extension card) to handle the 16-ch of audio. So If I had to choose, I'd go with the DVI one, because you don't need to install the other extension card (saves slot space).

Thats crazy!!! It's just like a blur of stuff whipping everywhere!

Yup - stay away from the wireless. It is typically more expensive than cables of any kind, and quality is usually lost in transmission with cheaper systems. cat5 with baluns is quite easy to do. If you can pull cables, strip wires, tighten screws, and remember colors, you are good to go! With coax, it seems to take more practice to get the connectors on properly. Plus coax is more expensive! So buy a 1000' roll of UTP cable and some baluns. Maybe buy the cable in like gray, so it doesn't stand out anywhere it is visible. You can make connections inside the enclosure at the top of the VCM-24VF. Then run them out one of the portholes and into the wall/ceiling/etc. One pair is used for video, then you have 3 other pairs for whatever you want! I use brown for video, orange (both wires) for positive, green (both wires) for negative in terms of power. When I did the system at the cabin I used the blue pair as a tamper loop that was connected to a zone on the alarm system. If anyone cut the cable, the alarm would go off!

Good cameras can be had for under $200, but a 4-channel DVR under $150 is a stretch! CNB's 24VF series is very good for the price. You'll want to look at the vandal-domes (since people are already scratching your cars ). VCM-24VF has an extra enclosure on the back to store connections, VBM-24VF is the same, but without the back-box so you can flush-mount it. The can easily be mounted to walls or ceilings, or connected to pendant mounts. These cameras do well in low-light areas. You do need some light however, so if there is no other light at night, either pair the cameras with IR illuminators or install a motion-activated flood-light. (Flood light is cheaper and better). For a DVR, you really ought to up your budget to at least $300. THEN you can buy a nice, quality 4-ch DVR with 500GB of storage (plenty for starters). My suggestion: SRD-450 from Samsung. All channels can be recorded at full D1 quality, at 7.5FPS each. For wiring, cat5 cable with baluns is usually cheaper. Plus, it is harder for new people to connect coax properly.

Smoothwall is great for easy and free firewall solution...

Also, in general, VLC Media Player is very good at working with the countless different formats, typically when something won't play in other players, VLC was able to show it! On a side note, there may be a codec that should be installed so that players can decode the video file.

The Effio camera will work out great for you - it is right near the same level as CNB's, and typically cheaper. Try to get it with the varifocal lens (I think theirs is like 2.8~12mm) so you can set up the scene perfectly. That DVR should be fine too - it is rather basic (nothing special for sure), but can do 15FPS at D1 on all channels. 500GB is fine for basic systems without super-long recording needs. I think you are good-to-go with that DVR and camera. Final thing is wiring - either go the RG59 coax+18/2 route, or cat5 w/baluns. (I suggest cat5 w/baluns). For power - any basic power supply will do. I'm sure you have an extra 12VDC or 24VAC power supply that can supply at like 200mA (0.2A)?

If you get any good footage from your cameras be sure to post it!!

One of the Empires with the varifocal lens ought to be great for channel 3 (Garage). Only thing is the IR from that camera probably won't fill up that whole area - there is a big size difference between the garage cam and the front stoop! It will be easier to tell the 'raw' (without any IR help) low-light capabilities of the Effio's and CNB's once Sean does more of his comparisons!

Yes, I believe the VBM-24VF's go from 2.8-10.5mm.

I think that could work - but if you use domes you're limited to 10.5mm to watch the house from a rather far distance. If its not really for identification, this ought to be fine? Maybe some calculations are needed... Something like this?: