Birdman Adam

Ademco is another very good option! Probably easier to program than the DSC's! Oh - just have to say the DSC 1832 is the most current version of the 832 series, not just the 832. The DSC system (most all residential alarms) are designed to call the monitoring company. BUT, since you are the one installing it, you can simply enter YOUR cell phone number into the first number bank. I have done this on my system, it works great! Now if you don't have a phone line, you can go with a cellular call-out option, or even use an internet-connected solution. I added a PC5928 board (& corresponding speaker/mic) so that when the alarm goes off, it calls me, and I can hear what is going on in the house, AND speak through a loudspeaker. I have a siren inside the home, and a HUGE siren outside the house paired with a strobe light. (Will be very easy for police to find my house!) Motion detector on each level, glass break sensor on each level, all windows, doors have sensors. Even have a sensor on the garage door, as well as on the hinge of the alarm cabinet. The DSC system is very versatile, they make extra modules for everything from sensing extra zones, to a wireless zone receiver, to different keypads, like simple LED ones, or full LCD ones (A lot easier to program with!) If you don't want to run wires, the wireless system works quite well. You buy one receiver module, as well as transmitters for each window/door. These are all designed with serious security in mind, so the transmitters "check-in" fairly often, and the system will throw a tamper/jamming trouble code if it looses reception. If the alarm is armed it will go off. No jamming allowed! Batteries may get replaced like every 2-3 years, they use those 3VDC batteries. Wireless motion's and glass-breaks are available as well. Here is a typical "starter kit", with the basics: You can see the main panel, siren, motion detector, LCD keypad, backup battery, main pc5010 board, RJ31X (keeps thieves from disabling call-out by taking a house phone off-hook), and wall transformer. Of course, you need a few more things, like sensors for all doors and windows (maybe garage too!), at least one glassbreak detector, maybe another motion detector, and of course 2 and 4 conductor alarm wire. I highly recommend an outdoor siren and strobe as well.

By security system, do you mean alarms system? Or a camera recording system? I honestly would say you should save up money under your budget is higher, for that budget, you cannot get much that will be useful when its put to the test. Now if you meant alarm system, yes, you can do that for under $500. Maybe go with a residential DSC 1832 system. I can PM you with a store that is dedicated to selling kits for these, they are very reasonably priced. DSC systems are very common in residential homes. (I have one!)

Anyone here watch Burn Notice? Remember Season 2, Episode 15? Talk to Michael Westen!

Maybe its time to set up a wired network?

That is for sure! Setting up ZM for any sort of customer is not something I would ever do. Too many small tweaks needed... For example, if you want to record cameras above 320x240, you have to edit the shared memory settings in /etc/sysctl.conf. This involves calculating memory that needs to be reserved, so for 4 cameras @ 640x480, you would have: 640 x 480 x 3(RGB) x 40(image buffer) x 4(# of cameras). On a side note... Do any other VMS software support using SSL encryption, as well as .htaccess password protection? Since ZM is used with Apache, I have it set up to always use SSL and .htaccess, (much more secure!)

In the realm of free solutions, I've tried almost all, ZM is one of the best in the free category. Now if your going to pay $80+ for software, of course you will get something that is even more easy to use, and simpler to set up. I would rather tinker for a few hours to set it up - (install capture card, install HD, install Ubuntu, install ZM, test, etc...) I just rave about it because I'm like "Wow, all this is really free?!?" Seems like similar commercial software costs above $100, and you may have to use a newer computer (don't forget OS), and buy a card that costs over $100.

Zoneminder works great! It is for people who know their way around Linux, and are able to tinker some. The motion-detection is spot-on, but requires a lot of tuning. Evidence downloading is extremely easy. You can download events in 4 clicks, with all the frames as individual JPG's. It keeps every bit of quality from my Analog cameras. Or, you can choose the Video option and download a video of the event in many formats. I just decided to buy a 1TB SATA drive, and set it to Record. Records 10-minute events right after another for each channel. Quality can be set from 1-100, mines at 90, I can keeps a few weeks of video at once. I set the "PurgeWhenFull" filter, so it operates just like any DVR, purges oldest events when HD fill is above 95%. What makes it nice is that it can be ran on almost any computer, I using an OLD Pentium 4 system with about 300MB of RAM! Zoneminder can be installed on many Linux distros, I chose Ubuntu 10.04. I can capture 4 channels at 5-7 FPS each, at D1 resolution. Zoneminder is served by Apache, so its ready to go on most all web servers. I have it set up so I can view from anywhere with DDNS. Probably best of all, it can easily connect to and capture from a plethora of IP cameras. You just need to get the URL of the IP camera that pumps out the raw images, and paste URL into Zoneminder.

CCTV has tons of uses other than just having evidence of the bad guys! I love having a CCTV system at my house. Some reasons: Figuring out odd things that happen while your gone. Solves those "who keeps doing this! " questions -Who the heck keeps throwing beer bottles near my driveway (was a neighborhood kid, no good intentions!) -Who keeps leaving a 'burn-out' trail in my gravel driveway (was a crazy Fed-Ex driver!) -Who trespassing on my property (path through woods) to get to road on other side (were some jokers in a golf cart) Also, provides a good laugh. Check out some of Scruits videos, (on youtube)!!! I love the "hellllooooo!" one. I always laugh when I see it. I also use it as a deterrent before something happens. Having a box camera in a prominent outdoor enclosure right at the front of your driveway with a sign below it saying "SMILE!! " works wonders. Because they are like, "crap...they've already got a picture of me..." You won't believe how many people look at the camera forever, then look around everywhere, and promptly leave!

If you have an extra computer monitor sitting around, that can be used in conjunction with the VGA output. (This will be the best setup in terms of video quality).

I just dont see how the computer PSU is any more dangerous than an "Altronics" power supply, or even the simple wall-warts. They are all the same thing. They all use transformers, and two of them use voltage regulation circuits. I'd say the wall-warts are the safest because they are almost always fused, and only handle a small current. Try shorting out one, they don't do much!

Does the camera have a heater with it in an enclosure? Sounds to me like it's just too cold. Possibly could be a power problem... I've had some cameras do similar things, when I reviewed the video it had slowly faded away to nothing, as the night got colder and colder! Obviously, to test this you could install a heater, or bring the camera inside, warm it up, and test it.

This is a great test! I have that exact cheap-o illuminator, got similar results - good for fairly close views. I diffused the light some so it would spread out. I've noticed that with a few years of use one of the LED groups (on same resistor) got partially burnt out.

I hear ya on wanting to set it up just how you want it! I'm also a DIY, I'm always fiddling with my system, testing out things, setting up new stuff, its like a hobby now. Since this will be your first system, I would go with a nice standalone DVR. I went the hard route, using Ubuntu and open-source DVR software called ZoneMinder. It works great, but can take a while to set up. Standalone is a lot easier!!! D1 refers to the resolution of the image that is captured by the DVR, usually at 720x480 pixels. I would be sure your DVR records D1 on ALL channels, with at least 5+FPS on ALL channels. Remember, this is CCTV, not a movie theater - You don't need 30FPS on each channel. 7FPS is great, just about perfect balance between frames per second and storage needed. Again, since this is your first, I second the idea on getting cameras with vari-focal lenses. They are easy to use. An example may be that many VF lenses are 2.8-10.5mm. This allows an adjustment from almost 100 degrees wide view to a 45 degrees view. Very versatile! I would stay away from IR, and instead install outdoor flood lights, either motion-detect or turned on at night-time. For outdoors, I got True-Day-Night cameras with an IR cut filter. Basically, at night they turn to black/white to see a lot better, than a normal color only camera. Ideal for outdoors, and can see almost perfect with a full moon, even better with minimal flood-light help! Stay away from cheap cameras with 1/4" sensors, 1/3" is great!

Remember that most modems don't allow you to connect to their outside IP address. In other words, you can't "go out then back in". To test your ability to view from outside your network, go to a friends house or maybe a random coffee-shops' wifi and try top connect from their. You should set up the DDNS Updater utility on a computer inside your network so when the modems' WAN IP changes, it will be automatically updated.

So that white dot takes up only one pixel? And you tested different monitors? Because LCD monitors' pixels can go bad... You cleaned the lens and the dome? Maybe someone before you took the lens off and got a spec of dust on the actual sensor. If you have a proper cleaning kit for sensors, you could try that. It's unlikely that the actual electronics in the camera is producing this dot. Is the dot there in color and B/W mode?

That is beautiful. This is funny because I was just thinking about building a new desktop computer for myself, with the exact case, CPU, and mobo! The cable management on the Antec 300 case seems good. I love how many options it has for fans! Did you fill the side and/or front fan areas? Did you opt to get 3 or 4 pin fans and have to mobo control them? Hows the new BIOS with this board? Which mobo specifically did you go with? For example, the Pro or Deluxe version? I was going to buy the Pro version, overclocking sounds good with these boards and the 2500K. Since the 2500K has an unlocked multiplier, I have heard of people hitting 4GHz+ out of the box, and 4.5GHz+ with a better air cooler! So you went with 1333MHz ram. For my personal build, I was going to get some 1600MHz. Would the 1600 perform much better than the 1333? Sorry for all the questions! This would be my first 'from-scratch' build.

The chimney trick is great. Usually great access from bottom floor and again in the attic. Running cables up to the attic from the level below it, then back down to where the other end needs to go always works. I would suggest you try to mount cameras under soffits (dome or bullet mounted to wall just below) and running the wires into the attic (easy to do). Then your in the attic for easy running. I don't know about your customers, but I don't like a lot of conduit on my house. So a scenario for mounting and wiring a camera on the wall of a room with an attic above. -Drill hole in header of wall in attic above where camera will be mounted -Find stud, drill holes to mount camera -Drill bigger hole for cable to be run into wall -Push cable down from hole in header, pull it out the hole in wall -Wire up and mount camera! Probably basic for most here, but thought I would go ahead and write it.. The problem that comes up is when you want an interior camera on the lower floor. That header on the top of the wall has no easy access to drill, and run cable through. I can't think of any easy way around it... Oh, and don't you just hate running wires down insulated walls. Yea, weighted lines or fiberglass rods help, but its a pain.

You guys have never heard of all of these unsecured cameras??? There is some special search you can enter into Google to find thousands of them. Here's one I've checked out before: http://cam15001.miemasu.net/Top?Language=0 Click on the 'Motion JPEG' option. It's Asia somewhere, so time difference is almost exactly opposite. May be day-time when you check in at night. Usually late at night (over there) there are tons of guys playing some odd game on the tables. I can never figure it out... Most of these cameras are PTZs, many with significant zooms. Some even have IR and/or visible lights that can be controlled from the web interface. It's fun to flash them at people...

I bet the leaf blower gets the fans spinning good! I have found that a goof air filter can help a lot. I would say about 70% of the dust is removed. I've always used a compressor to blow out the dust, just be careful not to direct the air to harshly on parts. I'm scared to put a vacuum near my computers because of my idea of a static electricity buildup. (just my fear, probably not true).

I've been running a couple of 'em 24/7 for a few years now, no problems. They are all pretty much rated 12VDC, usually less than 500 mA. Mine came with the appropriate power adapter.

I always try to eliminate dust from coming in in the first place. -Always have filters on intake fans. For example, the Antec 300 case has nice filters on the front intake. -Choose a case with a big intake, for better flow. -Have more intake than exhaust fans. This creates positive air pressure inside the case, forcing the clean filtered air out of little holes and crevices instead of sucking in dusty air. -Have lots of fans. The faster air is going through the case, the less likely dust will get stuck in things. -Choose cases with big fan openings. Minimum one 120mm intake and exhaust. I love the Antec 300 because it has a huge 140mm top exhaust, back and side 120mm exhaust, and two 120mm intakes!

Simply put, yes, it will work. Almost all computer PSU's can handle over 20A on the 12 rail. Modern supplies even have more than one 12V rail, so you can double, or triple it! For someone that likes to make use of what they have, go for it. For clean, super reliable, professional solution, buy a real power supply.

So since this camera can take 24VAC or 12VDC, there is no positive or negative connection. Hard thing to accept, I know! For power wire, you can use 18/2 (18 gauge, 2 conductor) wire. Basically, speaker wire. You can really use anything with a fair gauge, say bigger than 22g. For video, use RG59 cable, or you can use cat5 cable with a balun at each end. You can also use extra wires in the cat5 to power the camera!

I can remember one time I was at a food court in a mall with my laptop and high-power bluetooth dongle. Booted into Backtrack 3, looked around for some phones. Saw a lady eating Chick-Fil-A, while texting on her phone. I happened to recognize the model and saw it on the list of devices in range... Sent her a pairing request: "How's your Chick-Fil-A?". She freaked out. Her boyfriend took a look and starting looking around, then even called one of the officers over. I left soon after! I was about 100' away, so they didn't notice me. Yes, I spoofed the MAC address on my dongle.

If you ever see 'owned by b1rdm4n', you'll know who did it!