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I can go to "freemosquitoringtones.com" and hear the difference . Just wondering if anyone on this forum has ordered/installed one ? Anyone on this forum sell them?

You will also need the 2 following Ebay items. Check them out for yourself. I buy many. Ebay item # 3000063474522 Coaxial cable, and # 270111336272 Belden 16/2 Plenum cable. For around $180 , I can end up with 1000' of American made copper braid RG59, and 1000' of Industrial grade Belden 16/2 Plenum wire UL listed. Minus the BNC connectors that's 18 cents a foot , and I am running American made 16 guage wire, so there really no voltage/current issues on cameras alone. Just a thought

When you want to run more than just one camera, get a decent power supply. Available pretty cheap, actually. Make sure you are able to have overcurrent protection on each power leg (i.e. fuse, etc.). Spend the money to get a good UL Listed power supply.

I have a couple of those, but I don't power them via RS-485. They are basically 24vac motors that I power with a 2-switch system. 2 motors that have 2 directions each. I normally will use a 2 pushbutton station and a 3-position switch, momentary hold, and spring return to center. A 24v transformer of course is needed. I have re-fitted several Pelcos and Vicons, but not used anything other than a 6 conductor cable to power them.

It's just that a camera (box , non IR)by itself will use around 3 to 4 watts of power only. 3000 feet is a long way to send voltage. Always transmit AC voltages on the longest runs. AC transmits better than DC . It would be very hard to transmit 24vac over 3000 with 24/2 wire, and still be within 5% voltage tolerance. I would have to see it for myself with a meter. Voltage drop is just a very critical part of electrical installation. Where I work, we run Cat5e and Cat6 all the time, but I never use it for power.

Check and see that the Avermedia is both TV out and VGA out. I just have never got real good results from using the VGA out. Just the whole playback looks better on TV out. Just my personal opinion. Maybe it was the monitor my customer had? I personally would go with the Avermedia, but make sure you check the Avermedia website for recommended hard drives.

On all the Avermedia models I have used, I have had to install a small cooling fan on only 3 individual units . On the Power Distribution board inside the EB series of DVR's from Avemedia (3" X 3" ), there is a small 2-pin connection that is not being used . I have tons of the Sunon cooling fans in inventory, different sizes, but all are 12vdc. I just find some small 2-pin connection ends and make up my own connection to this board. Fans are 2w or 3w at most. The power supplies that come with the Avermedia DVR's are normally 4.0 A on the 2-hard drive models.

To those of you who have purchased LPR cameras, I would like to ask the question; what actually makes them different from an ordinary CCTV camera? Or does it happen to be any associated software that makes it possible to do a "freeze frame" effect, in order to view a moving vehicle? Since anyone can get enough IR to light up an object out quite far, does the wavelength of the IR illuminator come into play here? It's just that no one I deal with is going to spend upwards of $3000 or more and not be certain of 100% capture rate.

I have used 3 different models of the Avermedia DVR's, and love all of them. Haven't found any problems with the DVR's at all. Have not setup any remote viewing, though. Waiting for Kerry to get back from vacation to help me. No customer complaints or dislikes. I email or talk to Andy here in California quite often. For the price/features they are a great DVR.

I do that exact thing most of the time! I encourage my customers to spend around $10 to buy an old POS VCR at the Goodwill or the local Flea Market, where I can find dozens of them. I then take my label-maker and write a label that reads " CCTV VIDEO CAPTURE" on the front of it. Even got one in my own living room in the Entertainment center. Local burglars are mostly, but not always, teenagers, who wouldn't even know a DVR if one fell on them during a burglary. By the way, I do have an old Sanyo Time Lapse VCR that a customer left for me. It was working when I pulled it out a couple of years ago. I will let anyone have it, for the cost of shipping it to you, but you must understand there are no guarantees, as you are only going to pay for the shipping to you!. With the price of Avermedia DVR's, I can't see putting this junkie thing out there. If anyone wants it, just PM me, and we can work out what it would cost for me to send it USPS Priority Mail, or UPS.

Got my 20-pin ribbon cable from a friend, so just now have to incorporate the panel to allow my remote control to "see" the IR receiver, so I can playback. Could build this design in a few hours using Hoffman Fiberglass panels.

Don't laugh,.... Ebay.

Saw a ton of different ones at ISC West, especially from Supercircuits.com's booth there. Check them out.

My garage is full of DIN rail!! Hard to believe you can't find it anywhere. My "real paying" job is in a Manufacturing Environment , since 1978 when I got out of the Army. I myself build panels all the time. I always am in the middle of building either a panel for work, or a panel for home. At work, the company can afford to buy me Stainless Hoffman panels, and there are HUNDREDS where I work,... yes hundreds. For home, I can buy the NEMA Hoffman panels on Ebay ( no, I can't afford Stainless) , and in fact, just bought about 10 panels this week there. Got to be a good Ebay shopper, though. Here are some Ebay items to look at: #230123753065 . #250112898578 . I got those 2nd Hoffman boxes for $15/each , delivered to me. I got the 1st one, with a 20 AMP 12vdc power supply built in, for $90, delivered to me. The power supply alone is worth that. Anything that is NEMA 3R or Nema 6 (submersible) can take constant water hose spraying like a carwash. All have gasket doors. DVR's are just PC boards, nothing special. I have built over a dozen "special panels" for some of my customers, which have both a 9amp 12vdc regulated PS and a Siemens 140va 24vac transformer in them. All fused outputs, on DIN rail of course. Use that DIN rail, and things will be easy to mount! Allen Bradley makes sweet little DIN rail mount fuse holders with an LED to indicate a blown fuse. Just use Myers Hubs when you enter a panel. I would have to send you a picture of my Stainless/brass vents for you to see. Ask VST_man about them, as I have sent him a few. Always vent a panel if you want to get rid of the heat. PM me your email address if you would like pictures of anything.

In fact, I am in the middle of another DVR project. I have taken an older DVR that I have lying around, and am mounting the boards, power supply, hard drives, etc. in a Hoffman panel, along with a couple of cooling fans. A lot of work on the Hoffman panel to incorporate all the BNC connectors, USB cable inputs, etc. but being in a small steel Hoffman panel, and being able to mount this thing anywhere will allow me to avoid having a DVR lock box, as it definitely won't look like a DVR when I get done. The only thing is right now, I am in the need of a 20-pin ribbon (ATX?) cable , about 2 or 3 feet long. The remote control IR needs to be out where I can get to it and watch playback via remote control. Anyone know where I can get this long of a ribbon cable and connectors?

Just wondering if anyone has ever purchased cameras, DVR's , etc. from Arm Electronics? I get their catalogs all the time, but have never purchased anything ...yet. Wonder if their DVR's/Cameras are Chinese made, or Korean made, just re-branded?

I didn't mean it wouldn't work. Quite the contrary, as I tried it myself. I am sure a DVR would handle the small difference in voltage, as I put an old one in my car and used it. A fully charged automotive 6-cell battery, without anything attached to it, will run 13.2 volts(plus or minus). Now, you can overcharge a battery, that is true. The term "battery" means "a group of", which in this case means "cells". Count the caps on any wet-cell battery, double it, and you will know the battery voltage. Each cap is a separate cell. When your car is running, your alternator is producing around 14 volts, so you have to take that into consideration when measuring voltage at the battery. I spent about 15 years working on Electric Lift Trucks in an Industrial environment, running 24/7, so I have a lot of experience in that field. I worked on all sorts of electric lift trucks, sit down, stand up, ride along, etc. etc. Mostly 48volt General Electric EV contollers, as they were always the industry standard. The only thing I would add, is that I would put an inline fuse between the 12v power source and the DVR and/or cameras.

Great looking boards!! What sort of distance have you been able to get on the signal? Looks like I need to build another RF PTZ unit and try them out.

Avermedia makes a mobile DVR just for this purpose. Very small in size. Your battery (or any wet cell battery) is actually 2.2 volts per 'cell", meaning your battery should read 13.2 volts fully charged, not 12 volts. If your battery reads 12 volts, it is probably dead, or 1 bad cell. Most standalone DVR's run on 12vdc power supply. I myself have taken an older model DVR out, run it on my power outlet ( I fused it of course), along with 1 camera in the daytime. Drove around for about an hour, came home and downloaded the video to my laptop. I didn't have any problems at all with the video. I didn't know if it would work or not, but now I do. Had to find out for myself, rather than asking someone. Now, 4 cameras is quite a bit, but if you remember to put an inline fuse on all cables, and add components slowly, you might be able to make it work.

Would be easy to put that DVR in a Hoffman Electrical Panel. Hoffman even makes Stainless Steel panels that are "washdown" grade, meaning the seals are tight enough to be sprayed with direct hose water. I use all forms of them where I work. Stainless, mild steel, or fiberglass in a NEMA 4X grade would be the way to go. Use a Myers Hub with O-ring threaded flange . I also put small bronze/stainless "vents" on the bottom of the panels, as I will normally install a small cooling fan on the power supply board. Most of the steel Hoffman panels have a way to lock the panel door. Go to Hoffman website and see the different models. Top of the line panels.

Might just be an older door sensor, as many commercial businesses have gone to the Stanley (subsidiary of Stanley tools corporation) sensor for the doors to open. Stanley has a Security division. Also owns Proto tools I believe.

Whenever I hear people tell me that they want to run the smallest wire possible for their application, I remind them that their cars are only 12vdc (actually 13.2), and very close to the power source, but I make sure they realize the size of the cables coming from their battery storage. I want them to think about current (amp) draw, not voltage. I myself don't own any 18awg extension cords in my home, nothing less than 12 or 14 for that very same reason. I hate to say this, but I would sit down and calculate my voltage drop, and probably re-pull my wire. Electrical fires are the worst ones, and that is the reason the NEC book is co-written by the Fire Protection Industry. Sorry, I am sure you didn't want to hear that. Again, good luck!

Cat5 is only around 24awg. Way too small for power controls.Signal wire, OK, but never power. I think I understand what you are trying to do. You want to compensate for voltage drop over a long run. You will still have problems, as voltage drop is based on amperage used, another factor you have to consider. Each 24vac motor will use a different amperage, and therefore change the output voltage . Running too low of voltage, will ultimately burn up motors. I see it all the time. DC motors would run OK, but AC motors need to run very close voltage to what their nameplate is. Motors are wound for a specific purpose. Whenever you try to "double up" wire, look at a chart which shows "circular mils" (N.E.C. ) to see what you can make up. 2-24awg do not make 1-18awg wire. In manufacturing, where I have worked for almost 30 years, I have 24vac ,12vdc, 90vdc , 208vac, 240vac (both single and 3 phase), 480vac motors. The only way an AC motor will run on a lower-than-nameplate voltage, is with a Variable Frequency Drive. Running a 240vac motor on a motor starter with 208vac burns the motor up every time. Just a matter of time. I know this doesn't help you, but if you had no other recourse than try to send a higher voltage out, I guess you are stuck with trying that. Smaller AC motors, such as in drills, etc. are a little more "forgiving"(shaded pole)in the voltage arena, so these small motors in a PTZ might be along that line. Good luck!!

Was told today that the Panasonic CP484?? models have this "Peak White Inversion" switch on them. Since I have never bought one, can anyone on this forum, who has this model(s), confirm this? If this is true, has anyone tried to set the switch to see the outcome at night?

Spoke to a friend of mine today, who told me that he has used the Ademco ACM574 for this same purpose (plate capture) . I asked him why he never told me that before, and he stated " I don't have many calls for plate capture....I forgot". I think Ademco is now Honeywell? Will look into this further.