almelst

I'm not sure, but I think it goes like this: - disconnect power - short jumper pins 2-3 - reconnect power - wait until DVR boots - disconnect power - disconnect jumper pins - reconnect power - password should be reset to default: 111111 Or, consider spending few bucks and buying a new DVR. Any would be better than EB1304.

Your situation looks very simple to me. You can use Synology NAS as NVR or buy a dedicated one. Check Synology NAS' specs , install Video Surveillance app if missing or update it and check which cameras are supported. I suggest using Hikvision or Dahua, excellent value for money. Then, choose cameras for the specific purpose (resolution, lens, IR light, housing, additional features). If you need to use full camera's capability (not only video recording) , you should have NVR of the same brand. Since you already have PoE switch, just choose cameras with PoE supply. That's it.

Technically, the position of ground loop isolator is not important. It's easier to connect it on dvr side.

- upgrade DVR's firmware to the latest version - reset DVR to factory defaults and do the settings again. Format the HDD. - If the above doesn't help, change the DVR and/or HDD, it's not expensive nowadays.

Few ideas: - check group settings (what you see is a group, not necessarily a DVR ) - try deleting the device and adding it again - is monitor showing blank screen or "No Video" on channels 9-16 ? - try installing iVMS-4200

Is camera fixed to the grounded metal surface? This looks like ground loop effect. Most outdoor cameras have metal housing internally connected to minus pole of power supply and also signal ground. So, if a metal surface on which is camera fixed have slightly different ground potential than other cameras' ground, it interferes with video signal. If you have this situation, isolate camera's housing from the surface, or use bnc ground loop isolator

You can easily power it via passive PoE, using unused twisted pairs in UTP cable (blue pair= +, brown pair = -), and I think it will work on 50 ft cable length (according to KCM-5611 datasheet, power consumption is 8.5 W ie. 700 mA @ 12 V). Power supply adapter can't be "too powerful", only "not powerful enough". If it's 12 V and approx 1A or more it will do fine.

Try admin / admin or admin / (empty)

You can run 4 cameras over one UTP cable, but only signals. Cameras must be supplied by separate cable or locally, because one 24AWG twisted pair of Cat5 or Cat6 is not enough to power the cameras.

I have two suggestions: - if you haven't already changed your wiring to UTP Cat5, then don't ! You better use HD-CVI or HD-TVI equipment (cameras and DVR) instead of IP . These technologies support both coax (BNC) and twisted pair (with baluns) for signal wiring . - the simplest solution for network connection is using a pair of powerline adapters. They are not expensive. simple to install, no setup. Only limitation is that both adapters must be connected inside the same electric grid, ( same house)

Use PTZ command, preset 95 to open menu.

I'm not familiar with KARE brand. Which type of camera does it support on BNC inputs: analog, AHD, HD CVI, HD TVI ...?

1. Typical full bandwidth for a 16CH NVR is 100 Mbps, but real bandwidth depends on cameras' resolution and bitrate. If you calculate typical 4 Mbps per camera (full HD), then you get approx. 50 Mbps in total. So, Fast Ethernet 10/100 Mbps switch will do. 2. No, switch has nothing to do with software or Onvif protocol, it just connects cameras. NVR and other network devices together. But, you should consider a PoE switch which will make your system setup much easier (of course if you have chosen cameras with PoE option). 3. No. This depends on NVR. Some support only one camera producer, other support "third party cameras". But, Onvif is a good solution, it's a standard supported by many producers. 4. There is no "best possible solution" for recording software. I think Blue Iris is a commercial software, but there are also free solutions , like iSpy. I don't even think that the PC NVR is a good idea, i prefer standalone NVRs. Many of 16ch models support two 4 TB HDDs which should be enough for your storage. 5. If you have separate switch for NVR and cameras than there is no need for some smart, managed and so on switches. They must be used in more complicated and sophisticated network configurations. 6. As I mentioned before: PoE switch (simpler wiring, centralized supply), standalone NVR (cheaper, simpler, smaller, more reliable) 7. Add UPS to your system

It is almost impossible ti identify your DVR by information you sent. Try sending a photos of the DVR and the main screen with open menu.

Please write the exact DVR brand and model. Yes, 100 FPS means 25 FPS per camera (full speed live video). If the recording speed is set in total FPS than 25 FPS means 25/4 = 6,25 FPS per camera.

It's possible. What we usually call a "router" in fact consists of several "parts" : modem, router, LAN switch and WiFi access point. You need only an access point to connect your system. Set IP address ,SSID, WPA encryption and that's it.

Few questions: - Are all cameras connected to the same power supply? - Are all power supplies connected to grounded outlets? - Is any camera fixed to the metal surface?

I'm not sure this will help, but try setting compatibility option for player (right click and so on ...) to "Windows XP"

First of all, you won't get far if you watch main stream (full resolution) picture. There is the substream coding for this purpose. After you calculate the bandwidth (see below), set the substream bitrate, resolution and frame rate for each camera according to your internet connection speed. This might help: http://www.stardot.com/bandwidth-and-storage-calculator

Again , I suggest you to choose high quality picture (BEST- SUPERBEST, FRAME) but lower recording speed , for example 6 -7FPS. Unfortunately you should wait for a long time to check the effects, or you can erase (format) HDD and daily check the size of the recordings (watch the remaining HDD size on the screen)

I agree with philipscctv. There are four things you can do: 1. set motion detection recording, it's a must. Take care of motion trigger area and sensitivity to avoid unnecessary recording. 2. set lower recording resolution and/or quality. I wouldn't do that, CIF is hardly acceptable if you ask me. 3. set lower FPS recording speed. Recommended: for example, if you set 10 FPS instead of 30 , you'll triple your archive duration and still have usable recordings. 4. install bigger capacity HDD (extra cost)

Is any of cameras fixed on metal grounded surface, like a pole or something ? In that case, the problem is ground potential difference between camera and DVR, which causes signal interference. Camera housing is internally directly connected to signal ground and power supply minus pole. Solution? Isolate camera from metal surface (including screws, too) or use ground loop isolator video balun.

Which DVR it is (brand, model, screenshot, something it can be identified by)? Have you forwarded ALL necessary ports? Are all ActiveX control items in IE's security options changed to Enable or Prompt?

First, you should use Internet Explorer. Old DVRs worked only with IE (ActiveX controls). According to my investigation results, default network admin password could be "admin", but if you operate on DVR's keypad, DVR password is "0000". See if this manual helps: http://www.y3k.com/downloads/user_manuals/E4N_manual.pdf Old DVRs often had some kind of reset jumper or pins on motherboard which should be shorted on power-up.