CollinR

Part numbers would help.

Find and old Aver NV5000DOM, just plug that stuff in and boot. The other DOMs I don't know if I would trust their functionality. As was mentioned, who designs, assembles and configures it makes more towards stabilty/instability in most cases. Especially with Windows based designs.

Thats doesn't mean it's not a shutter speed issue, CMOS cameras are different from CCD. They have different means of dealing with light.

It's slow shutter just like the Samsung and Bosch low light crapola. I don't sell or support Axis but thats basically what happens when you slow the shutter down to get more light in.

Yup you pick your cameras by application not by brand name. No single brand has a camera for every application. Most of the time for difficult stuff analog is the way to go.

It's almost universal, unless you use the advanced MD features of a Geovision, Avermedia or some NVR softwares. Basically you will limit the size of the object and it's direction of travel. So it may still record bugs close to the camera moving fromthe top to the bottom but not ones going left to right, or vise versa.

Take the video out from the DVR and plug it into port1 on the toggle, then VCR on port2 and connect your display to the video out of the switch. Optionally you can use the loops on the VCR/DVR to send duplicate feeds to specific ports on the toggle. The first method would leave 8 ports unused. If you have looping outputs you should consider this for your more important feeds.

I use 6 sigma too!

You can embed XP Pro on a DOM if you like or compact flash. You can also install XPe (the microsoft product) on them plus conventional hard drives.

The click sound is interesting to me, I have only observed that on auto backfocus cams and DC lenses on a cam set to video drive.

Did you try to exchange the PS? I have installed many of these and never a trouble. Granted most of my cameras are in the ~200ma range.

You need to count the beeps, they will tell you if it is RAM or HDD or display or whatever. It could be the keyboard isn't plugged in. These are standard PC diagnostics, google will help.

I have done many of these so much so I have a flat rate to integrate. I can tell you with pretty good certainty that DVR will not work for your application. I can also tell you that my DVR that will, will take your entire budget. However you may look around for the people in the automation communities that have used me in the past. Homeseer, Cocoontech, AVSForums, CharmedQuark, HTPCnews... I have helped a quite a few get these going as you desire but there are multiple variables at play that must be carefully considered. Also mine has an integrated multifeed multiplex and quad support, so no need to add one if you get it in the DVR in the first place. Also bidirectional support. You didn't buy the OmniLT or Vista15 so you shouldn't buy the cheapest solutions here either.

IIRC v7.05 is the most commonly pirated version of the software.

Yes, I have Huges net and wild blue customers. Really no different then Cable or DSL so normal FAQ and help files should be just as helpful for you.

You can PM me if you like. The real key to a high end DVR is a system focused on your needs not really a very expensive system.

Yes but I must say I am glad OK has it! While it doesn't guarantee quality service and support it does knock out a bunch of trash. It's hard to compete against those people and it only hurts the consumers, I have had many cases where competitiors had quotes that were at or below half my quotes. Sometimes this is just not even possible, sometimes possible but not not fully functional and probably not profitable.

They why ask for help with it?

That would really stink.

You have missed the primary purpose of CCTV. Scare them into messing with someone else! What would be the advantage to them if they knew ~some of the locations~. 99.99% of people will go somewhere else. You would have to be specifically targeted for someone to intentionally a number of cameras and wish to play mission impossible or something.

Scotch tape even, you can get that in clear and haze as well. Getting the right stuff the first time around is mo better. Doesn't Christmas time make every CCTV system nice?

Rather then using window tint you might play with something like those window clings. Window tint cuts down on light transmission while maintaing clarity, this will basically reduce the problem but not really improve the situation. You really want something that has as close to 100% transmittance as possible but also has a very low clarity. This will scatter the light across the FOV rather then leaving a dimmer bright spot in the middle. Something like wax paper might be decent but it will impact transmittance too. You might be able to hole saw a piece from a shower door/skylight/bath window. Those are all designed to have a high transmittance and a low clarity for lighting as well as privacy. Also taking sandpaper to the area infront of the LEDs would probably scatter it well.

IR on the cam sucks, get a quality black and white camera. You should have plenty of light without the need for IR.

Do you have a ring around the outside of the feed or a bright spot in the center? Either way IR on the cam sucks and this is directly related to that, if possible return the camera.

Completely refocus it at night with IR on. You may need an IR corrected lens for 24 hours use. Most of mine do not use 60mm lenses and I think that has/will become a large factor in this.