cgcmgr

I'm looking at the Axis T8126 PoE Splitter. Although I don't see it say DC-DCconvertor, it does say, "* Products powered directly by IEEE 802.3af midspans (15W) may also be powered by IEEE 802.3at midspans (30W or 60W). Even though a High PoE midspan can supply higher power, it will not supply more power than required by the powered device." Do you think that means I could use it with a midspan giving 55V? Chris Yes. PoE is 48vdc (up to 55vdc I guess), if your camera is 12vdc then do NOT connect it directly to the 55vdc the Axis T8123 PoE injector is sending out over the cat5e, it will damage your camera, you need the Axis T8126 splitter to step it down from 48vdc to 12vdc. Watts are a completely different thing, the higher the number the more your power supply is able to provide but your camera will only consume what it needs, go with 30 watts if you can (check your camera spec sheet to see how many watts it requires, especially if it has a heater blower unit). So your power connection will look like this: 120-240vac --> Axis T8123 PoE injector --> cat5e/cat6/whatever cable --> Axis T8126 PoE Splitter --> 12vdc Camera. The above combination will provide ~24watts of power (or 2 amps at 12vdc) to your camera. This should be plenty for most cameras. These two Axis parts are made to play together. That's what I thought. I will be using the splitter, just wanted to know if it kicks down the voltage. Thanks for the help, Chris

I agree that would be the easier way and probably less expensive way, however, to run this cable is a major headache. It isn't a straight run. I'm using my cameras in upstate NY where the area is pure country. The cable is run to a field through trees up and down hills. Then I have to bring it into the house near the top of my roof so that it isn't hanging low by the house. I'd have to get the extension ladder, then drill another hole into the house and feed it through etc. It's a lot of work and took me a few hours to do. Unfortunately, I'm not there that often, maybe every 3 months and only for like 2 days. I just don't have the time. If all else fails, I guess I'll have to set aside a weekend and run another cable. Thanks for your input Chris

This is what is confusing me. I don't need analog video. I do not want to use that camera for anything other than the IR. I will not have the video connected on either end. It's kind of like using a stand alone IR illuminator. All I want to do is power it up.

I'm looking at the Axis T8126 PoE Splitter. Although I don't see it say DC-DCconvertor, it does say, "* Products powered directly by IEEE 802.3af midspans (15W) may also be powered by IEEE 802.3at midspans (30W or 60W). Even though a High PoE midspan can supply higher power, it will not supply more power than required by the powered device." Do you think that means I could use it with a midspan giving 55V? Chris

Yes indeed! Bit of a barnburner going on right now with the Ducks in town - 4-3 Ducks in the 2nd. (Edit: make that 4-4 at the second intermission) 700mA @ 12V is still 8.4W, for 22.9W total (keep in mind too, that the spec is measured at the supply end - it has to allow for losses over a longer run, included losses in the power splitter itself). If you can use a 30W injector, you might be okay... BUT... you'll want to make sure that's still only using two pairs, because you'll still have to separate out one pair to be dedicated to the analog run. If the higher power is achieved by using all four pairs for power, you're hooped - the only option then would be a switch and an IP encoder, and those would have to run off the same power as well, which would definitely put you WAY over the limit. One last go at it. I found this High Powered PoE Injector (thanks to Hardwired) http://www.midspans.com/pdf/POE36U-1AT.pdf. It puts data AND power over pins 1,2,3 & 7. Then this splitter http://www.phihong.com/html/poe21_21w_dc-dc_poe_splitter.html would connect to my IP Camera. The IP camera also has a power dongle so I'd connect the dongle from the splitter to that. This splitter can receive power from either data or spare pairs. That's 21w to the camera that only needs 14.5w max. This allows room for more loss. All this is done over pins 1,2,3, & 7, leaving 4,5,6 & 8 free. I could use a regular PoE injector such as this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pacific-Wireless-POE-12i-Power-Over-Ethernet-Injector-12V-PoE-/350554725063?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519eb09ac7 which sends power over pins 4,5,6 & 8. What are we looking at 15.4W being produced? This would connect to a splitter that would connect to my IR camera (8.4W). Most splitters receive power over pins 4,5,6, & 8 which is exactly what I need. Again, only power is needed to the IR camera, not data so I can use those remaining two pairs. Even with a 200' run, with a loss of 3.5V, that's 9.5V * 1.3A = 12.35W. This even allows for more loss for cable length and splitter conversion. Looks like it would work, what do you think? Chris

Thanks!

Ok, so here are the specs of the cameras. Soundy you were right: The IP camera is 12VDC + or - 5% at 14.5W max The existing analog camera is 12VDC at 360mA, but I was going to replace that with a camera I had laying around that is 12VDC at 700mA Any way you can see this working with the 700mA camera and the IP camera and the use of High Powered PoE Midspans? Chris

Thanks, I'll take a look

Soundy, you're very helpful. I'll look at the specs of the cameras and report back as soon as I can. What about using a high powered PoE Injector like the Axis T8121 High Power PoE Midspan 1-Port 5014-004. It has this spec. 55 V DC (max. 30 W) It has 30W not the normal 15.4W. Using a 12V splitter would regulate the voltage to 12V. Would this work or is the fact that is it regulated down to 12V means there still wont be enough wattage? I see you're from Vancouver, I'm from New York. Looks like we may have a rematch of the '94 Stanley Cup this year. Both the Rangers and Canucks look good.

Thanks for the quick reply. As far as the IR goes, the IP PTZ cam has a removable IR-Cut filter. Once it becomes dark enough the filter moves away from the lens, so that should work. Secondly, you said "No. You've put a lot of thought into it, but the one thing you're missing is the current requirements for the IR, which alone will probably be over 500mA. When this plan is said and done, you'll have only one pair running power to the analog camera, to carry anywhere from 500mA to 1A - at 200' that simply isn't sufficient." I thought I would have 2 pairs carrying the power, those going to pins 4,5,7 & 8. The IR lights up now using the baluns so the 200' doesn't seem to be a problem. What if I don't use baluns and use a Mode B PoE injector. That puts power over pins 4,5,7 & 8. A splitter on the other end would receive the power on those 4 pins and then it would plug into my IR camera. I don't need to connect the Lan part as I wont be using data. I'm just throwing out ideas here. You guys know better than me. Chris

Basically yes. If I don't use a PoE Injector, how would I get power and data over a Cat-6 cable?

Thanks for the prompt answer!

Hi everyone, Hope you can help. Here's my situation. I am sending power and video over direct burial Cat-5 cable to my IP camera. The camera supports Power over Ethernet and utilizes the 802.3af protocol. I'm using a PoE injector to send the power to the camera (also utilizing the 802.3af protocol). The injector sends power over pins 4,5,7, & 8 while sending data over the other pins (1,2,3, & 6). The Cat-5 cable will be outdoors so I need to use Cat-5 Lightning Surge Protectors in case of a lightning strike. This is where I run into a problem. I have come across a surge protector I like, but it comes in two versions, Mode A and Mode B. Mode A protects all 8 pins with 60 volts line to ground. Mode B protects only pins 4,5,7 & 8 60 volts line to ground and protects pins 1,2,3 & 6 7.5 volts line to ground. Which surge protector do I need? Would either work? It seems to me that Mode A is better b/c it protects all pins. Any input? Chris

Hi, I just recently purchsed a Lorex 8 channel DVR model L208D251. I hooked up everything and checked local viewing. It works fine. I then set up remote viewing and checked it on my aunt's laptop who lives 2 blocks from where my DVR is and it worked fine. I got home (over 300 miles from the DVR) and installed Lorex's client software onto my computer (version 2.4.0.0). This is the version the Lorex webpage says to use. I can connect to my DVR (it says connected), but I normally get just a blank screen. Sometimes I get partial camera video with green digitized boxes blocking the camera pictures. Other times I get all 3 camera views, but I cannot do anything with them. The time counter seems to never move as if the software is frozen. I have tried this client software on 5 different computers all with the same result. At work, I do get better results, but as of yesterday I couldn't remotely access the menu of the DVR and it too seemed to lock up as the time wasn't moving. The day I tested it at my aunt's I had my brother also test it (over 300 miles away) and it worked. When I got home, he asked me if I disconnected the DVR because he could no longer log on, all he got was a blank screen. So it looks as if everything works fine on the initial try on each computer, but then stops working. I still need to check with my aunt. Does anyone know if the problem is this client software? I read online (google search) that someone else had this problem and couldn't fix it. http://osdir dot com/ml/wine-bugs/2010-06/msg01104 dot html. I'm having trouble contacting Lorex to ask them what they think. I just want to be able to view my cameras and see what is going on there. When It first worked video seemed to be on a five second or so interval. Video wasn't fluid, the time would show say 12:30:32 and then 12:30:37. I originally had the cameras connected to USB devices connected to my computer and video was fluid, every second or so. So I don't think it is an internet problem. Any suggestions? The DVR is MPEG-4 encoding. If it's the DVR and not the software, any ideas as to a good DVR that will work well when remotely viewed? That's my main goal. Not too concerned about recording. I just want to view my cameras in real time. Thanks for reading Chris

so I just got a call back from Lorex...can't believe they called this late. I was told that the software I have is the only software that can be used for my DVR. I was also told to check my upload spped. Can't do that until I'm at the DVR site. He also said only one person can be logged into the DVR at a time. Thanks for all your help and suggestions though. Changing the video quality does indeed speed up the video. Thanks again, Chris

My Lorex client software is not like that. That is a newer version. Mine is very basic. I actually downloaded the version you have and no matter what info I put into the setup screen it always tells me connection failed. Guess it doesn't work with my DVR. Unless I'm doing something wrong. So, after days of trouble shooting, another brother of mine calls me and tells me the cameras seem to be working fine. I tell him I can't connect, how r u connecting? He tells me he connected 3 days ago and has never disconnected, just minimizes the software. So, it looks as if only 1 person can connect to the DVR at a time. Here I am going nuts trying to figure out what's wrong and it's all because of him. By the way, I had him go into the settings of the DVR and change the video quality from high to normal and although the video isn't as clear, it refreshes about every second or so. Thanks for the advice. Any idea if your version of the software will work with my DVR?

Do you mean change the video output in the DVR menu settings? I currently have video output set to high quality, should I change it to low or medium? Is this the video you want me to change or is there something else with video I should be looking at?