dvarapala

Was it bricked when you bought it? I hope you got a real good price... Yes, there is a way. Virtually all electronic devices have a JTAG port through which you can update the programmable devices (flash, FPGAs, etc.) on the board. That's how the factory programmed the flash originally during manufacturing. If you had the correct JTAG interface, the correct programming software, and the correct firmware image for your DVR, you could re-flash it yourself. The problem with that is you don't have any of those things. Your best bet would be to send it back to the manufacturer and ask them to fix it. That way, if a simple re-flash doesn't correct the problem they can repair the real issue before sending it back to you.

Not necessarily; you should be able to view your cameras from any computer in your house via your LAN. The NVR itself can even be "headless" if you want. If done correctly, you will even be able to monitor your cameras over the Internet on your cellular phone. I don't know what AT&T charges to rent you that extra set top box, but surely it's worth your time and trouble to run that one extra wire so that your DVR can be on your network in a standard manner?

Wow, nice job! Is the light pole new, as well, and thus everything got painted at the same time? If not you did a great job on the color match.

When I first dipped my toe into this hobby, I started out with 1 CNB analog camera and a capture card. I was immediately put off by the interlacing artifacts. That equipment now sits in the closet; I switched to progressive-scan IP cameras and never looked back. To me the sharp, clear, high-res picture is worth the additional cost.

Glad to hear it!

Who said anything about the Internet? It's clear you have your answer. I'm sorry to have wasted your time.

When they anchor the mailbox they should fix their gutters too - those things are useless!

Wow, so not only can you feed camera images over the power lines, but you can manipulate them, too?!?!?! Astounding!!! I agree with the new DVR suggestion, but you might try leaving the existing one intact as a decoy. Maybe hide a new camera pointed right at the old DVR, or the place where he leaves his little signs, or the door with the picked lock. You might also have a friend with a shotgun hide inside your house once a month when you go out; maybe he will catch your prowler in the act.

Were you able to ID the geezer?

Forget the hose - follow her home and deposit her own fecal matter on her front porch. " title="Applause" />

What you're asking for is called a "KVM Switch" and they are very common, cheap, and readily available. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KVM_switch

If you power off the DVR and you still see the feed, then it's not coming from the DVR. It may be coming direct from a camera. If you power off the camera and you still see the feed, then you really have to challenge your assumptions. I once had a support "engineer" tell me that the reason my system was not powering up was "it must be the power in your cubicle." Time for a little reality check here. Yes, "network over power lines" technology does exist, but it doesn't just happen magically by itself - it requires special equipment at both ends to transmit and receive the data. So unless the infected PC has one of these special receiver boxes attached to it, it is approximately 0% possible and 0% likely that the feed was coming over the power lines. A more rational explanation would be that this virus made use of a recently-discovered DVR exploit and used it to retrieve a live feed from the DVR or directly from one or more of the cameras (if they are IP cams). Of course, we'll never know for sure now. For further reading: https://community.rapid7.com/community/metasploit/blog/2012/06/05/mays-top-10-most-searched-metasploit-exploit-and-auxiliary-modules http://www.networkworld.com/community/blog/exploiting-universal-plug-n-play-protocol-insecure-security-cameras-network-printers

Basic Troubleshooting 101: Turn off power to the DVR and all cameras. Are you still seeing this alleged camera feed?

Who remembers the final scene of the movie The Conversation? Gene Hackman's character tears up his entire apartment looking for bugging devices but never finds any. o8-i7lA5gic

A valid concern. I painted one outdoor housing with flat, non-reflective black Krylon camo spraypaint; I've had a camera in there for over a year with no issues, although it gets direct sunlight for only part of the day. I just recently painted a second housing in camo black, green, and tan, which is in the sun for a longer period each day. We'll see how that goes.

When your pros do an installation like this one: is there such a thing as a cat5e punchdown - RJ45 jack that mounts inside of that single-gang weatherproof electrical box? Or do you guys just use a punchdown keystone jack and let it hang loose inside the box?

I have a 940nm RayMax that is plainly visible to the human eye. More covert than an 850nm unit, but by no means is it invisible. It has been spotted by people walking past on several occasions. Around here many of the houses have these little path lights that give off various colors; I have been considering placing a few of those around the area and maybe fool people into thinking the IR is just another colored path light.

So what do you do when you see someone in the pool? Can you evict them from the area from your bed, as well? Well, to be really nitpicky, what you described is actually called an endpoint to the connection. A socket is a descriptor which represents a (potential) connection, and usually consists of two endpoints, one for each peer involved in the connection. There are other kinds of sockets (e.g. Unix domain sockets, raw sockets, unbound sockets) which have no IP address and/or port number associated with them at all. Just a bit of networking info there.

I heartily second this solution. I have a row of Eugenias along my back fence. These suckers grow fast and tall and do an excellent job of screening the view all year 'round. I also had a nice Fichus tree back in the corner which blocked the view from that angle, but alas its roots were beginning to crack my block fence so I had to remove it.

Here's the ultimate in POV videography: http://hacknmod.com/hack/eyeborg-false-eye-camera-implant/

I duhnno - just seems more "professional" to have it mounted. But you're right, there's not going to be any stress or strain on it, so hanging loose will work fine. Would you care to share your source for those "jumbo-size" RJ-45 crimp connectors that will work with shielded/direct burial cat5e?

...Or attach it to the inside of the electrical box with double-stick foam tape.

Just hanging loose from the Ethernet cables? The reason I ask is I'm planning to have an electrician run some conduit outdoors and I'm thinking I should have him leave a weatherproof single-gang box for each camera; After he does the hard part I'll take care of the last foot between the box and the camera with seal-tite. I just need to know what to ask for/expect him to put into each of the boxes. What's the standard practice for this sort of thing? The cable I plan to use is direct-burial cat5e which is too thick for the regular crimp-on RJ-45 connectors, so a keystone jack or similar type of small punchdown jack is the only option.

"Oh, forgive - I here am new!" W3c9wtbQTZ4

I recently purchased an Axis P1347 and I'm getting ready to put it outside. Up to this point I have been buying cameras which came with their own weatherproof housings, so I lack experience with what types of housings are available. I know Axis makes one that would obviously work, but I'd like to find something a little less expensive if I can. In looking around there seem to be billions and billions of different brands and models; which ones are the easiest to work with/most flexible/most reliable/etc.? For example, some housings have a flip-open top, while others are more of a tube into which the camera slides; the flip-open type seems like it would be easier to focus and adjust the iris. Any drawbacks to the flip-open design, e.g. less waterproof? Is there a better style I should consider? What housing brands/models do you guys like to use?