mobbarley

Hello from Sydney, looks like you got it going again?? It looks a bit blurry - time to be refocused?

Wireless p2p is an easy option if you have line of sight, and power where the camera is going. Other options: Axis' T8129 PoE extender (also available from other brands) Axis' T8160 PoE over coax - and run good quality coax (also available from other brands) Veracity Longspan etc etc

Just got the email from his blog - terrible news

delay is approx 150ms-250ms with most axis products

The lenses are electronically adjustable, 12mm is just the maximum. You have the lens calculator right - but you don't have to set the lens to 12mm, you can use the full range of the lens slider.

.... Comparing sensor sizes is kind of misleading as you are forgetting a very key factor - technology. Every year or two sensors become more sensitive, have less noise, have better WDR etc etc. If you are comparing two sensors of similar technology and construction then that is fair, if there is a generation or two gap then it probably isn't. As an example, all of the 4K surveillance cameras hitting the market have very 'first generation' sensors - they look like the 3MP cameras from a few years ago with poor dynamic range and poor low light performance. 4K should mature over the next couple of years and then I'm sure it will be great. If I could give you a 1/4" sensor that had great low light, great WDR etc, would you still choose a 1/2" sensor over it? The 1/4" sensor could mean a smaller camera, smaller (and less expensive) lens, lower power consumption, etc. Why wouldn't you choose it? I guess my point is not to take sensor size too seriously. In fact, don't take datasheet numbers too seriously either - they are just numbers and tell you very little about the image produced. Unfortunately we still have to test cameras to see how well they perform in a variety of circumstances.

For ONVIF and AXIS you should just have to add an ONVIF username + password in the cameras. It is disabled once you add a password the camera initially through the webpage.

Check this ACAP out... http://camstreamer.com

Bit of a weird test which is quite typical of these things. The Q1604 is now almost three years old (I think) and not a light finder camera. There are better options for low light. Low light in high megapixel cameras is not great yet but give it a couple of years and things will improve. AXIS do light finder in up to 1080p now which is nice - but really with careful planning you rarely need higher than 1-2mp.

The setting in recent axis cameras was just hidden from view. Go into Setup > Advanced > Plain Config > Image Source and change the "Max Exposure Time" value ONLY. If this is shorter than value set in the camera settings it will override it and take affect instantly but you will not see anything reflected in the camera settings page. The value is in microseconds. For example 1/50th second = 20000

Hi Buellwinkle - it might be worth getting in touch with the second AXIS compatible LPR application to appear: http://waysight.com/embedded-lpr-acap/ I haven't tried it yet.

Browser scaling may help but anything other than 100% is awful for image quality.

Either type of supply should be fine if it is reasonable quality. Switching supplies are much more energy efficient.

This link: http://192.168.1.67/ But also try the compatibility mode.

If you have a fairly large computer screen open the 'Live View' in a new window and line it up so that the live view is behind and to one side. Scroll this window to a good spot for focusing before going back to the focus window. Then reduce the width of the window with the focus settings as much as possible and cram it over to the other side. You shouldn't get that error in IE10 but you will notice problems with some config pages currently, such as the storage page. To fix that open the IE10 window, press F12 to get the developer section, use the row of buttons in there to change it to IE 9 mode - you can then press the x to close the developer half of the screen. What happens if you click the link you posted above? This will remove all the stuff after the IP.

If it is the long runs that are causing your problems have you measured the voltage at the far end while the camera is plugged in? Is it lower than the minimum voltage of the camera? If it is a voltage drop problem you might try: - eliminating the baluns for power - adjusting the supply (if adjustable), be careful of the maximum voltage for cameras nearer to the supply. - running thicker cable / using more pairs for power - use a 24vac solution

have you tried a blank password? are there any brand/model number/product id on the unit?

The Q1604 looks great for LPR during the day, Im quite sure you'll get good results at night with the right IR. Shown here with a fujinon 12.5-50mm lens. Sun is bright and almost directly above (i think) so shadows are harsh. Car is moving approx 50 kph hence the slight skew due to rolling shutter. All settings were automatic but for a day/night installation i'd definately take note of the max exposure time parameter in plain config.

No catch except for the above points, it's an external version of the M3005. Looking forward to testing it and the M3024-LVE!

Can you get a firmware file for either of these? Might be able to pull it apart. Otherwise find a serial port on the mainboard and see if the console single user mode is enabled and change the password. Next step is to pull the HD / flash and grab firmware that way..

Yes, the camera looks focused a little to close. Depth of field is quite noticable on larger sensors such as 3-5MP. You could refocus the camera to the end of the driveway which would help with plates in the street - but even then they might not be legible - not enough resolution for that large field of view. This would also risk some blur up close to the camera in low light when the iris opens. I would focus the cam at the range of the id numbers on the boat for this sort of scene.

This camera has axis' dynamic contrast - it works well but is not as good as dynamic capture (Q1604) which uses multiple exposures.

Good for home, don't sell it as a solution. I used to use it at home for a long time and it worked well, but there were occasional breaks due to updates which took quite some time to resolve. Lately I've had issues with any MPEG streams constantly disconnecting forcing me to go back to MJPEG and support for the latest Mac OS java versions is still not available. If it works for you then it's great - if you have problems you will be wasting a lot of time. Don't consider it a security appliance.

Try this one: http://www.tlselectronics.com/Docs/KD6i%20Seriesopmanual.pdf

Bit of an old thread but I have been able to successfully control Ultrak KD6 cameras with Honeywell hybrid DVRs and older AXIS encoders (240Q) - the older encoders have drivers available for Ultrak but many of the newer ones do not.