Numb-nuts

Regardless of the DVR (s) or the HDD capacities which are relative to the lenght of time they will hold recording, but there is also the type of recording settings to the cameras. If they are ALL set to record continuous then it would be aLOT less than if they were set to record only on detection of movement in one of two or more ways either through pixel changes or from PIR devices (alarms) or switches attached to doors etc. In a place like a college it will be almost impossible to estimate so the only way you are going to know it to try and recover the footage you require as quickly as possible. It may be that the system has fallen into disuse or it may be that they take regular DVR backups at regular intervals (which in my opinion may well be the case) In that case, you may well be lucky or unlucky according to whichever is appropriate, since people don't always reveal their TRUE motives on here. Lets just give you the benefit of believing waht you say at face value and I's say ask the authorities as soon as humanly possible.

Sold the last one today not a single return and not one signle complaint.

Try the power but also could be the processor it's difficult to say post an image from another identical camera and the camera in question to make a comparison. Check the voltage at the camera in question and then at another identical camera nearby see if there is any difference. try swapping channels and if the faulty picture moves to the new channel it could be your camera processor or a stuck iris.

did you buy this new or used? If it's used and the suggestions on here don't work it's probably been changed and sold because the seller forgot it. Somone on here with access to the daily password override will probably generate one for you. Once you get in, change the default password to a 6 character password and save it somewhere safe for future ref If you are going to connect to the internet never leave the admin account password at it's default. BIG SECURITY RISK some default passwords are 888888, 666666, 111111, admin, 000000.

The most important security issue is setting up user account and password. Change the 'default user' account password and the other default accounts such as the admin account,making certain to record the admin account password carefully somewhere safe. Having said that, you can indeed change the default port numbers but you will have to do these withing the DVR's acceptable range (some DVRs eg Hikvision)) (just a coupe of numbers away from the default is a safe bet). You will need to bear in mind other default ports and if they are in use for anything. The appropriate setting changes for both HTTP and Mobile ports will need correcting to the new settings too. If you are logical about this you shouldn't have too many issues but it is probably not that much of an issue Very often you will find a list of default ports for various uses on the internet or even in some routers interface pages. You can do a scan of open ports to see which ones are in use saving you time and frustration. Why would anyone want to hack into your CCTV anyway? Do you run a jewellery shop or precious metals foundry? You should CLOSE any ports you already have open and have changed or you will create a security risk just leaving the back door open. I have never experienced a hacker log in to a DVR yet in 5 years, but if you want to take extra precautions, more power to you.

Think about it this way if you had a brand and sold it as a re branded product would you configure it to be buggy or to perform well?

The best recognized drive for CCTV especially QVIS is the WD Purple. If you are asking it it the longest lasting the most honest answer is "I dunno?" It should work immediately it is fired up but sometimes I find it useful to format it anyway. QVIS (Adata) themselves now use the WD Purple as standard yhay doesn't mean they don't fail, on the contrary they do. You do get excellent performance while they are good.

Actually it's not that bad, I can set one up in one in around 10 minutes. A lot of the apps that will work with that Model are written by Meyetech see their website. They support the majority of DVRs and NVRs are easy to set up and best of all mostly free.

Oh thats what POE stands for I thought it was a dubious instruction....?

Hope you can lighten the mood of some of the poe faces on here too.

Most of us stiffen the cladding with aluminium (aluminum) or steel plate riveted or rivnutted to the cladding. In one instance I used sheer bolt because the client advised me he had suffered theft of outside cameras in the past. Coupple weeks ago I saw the footage of the thieved removing the cameras with a cordless angle-grinder. IF the wind is THAT STRONG even fixing to a masonry wall you will suffer some vibration. Waiting 4 years before reopening an old thread is a little wierd

First thing to be sure of is that the Hard disk is installed. That model stores it's network settings on the HDD for some crazy reason. I suspect it was an afterthought. The next step is to check if your network has a static IP or dynamic IP i.e. your public address. You need to set up a hostname on a DDNS service and update it from your DVR (Netservice Menu) Then we have to open ports in the router firewall and FORWARD them to the DVR, this is called port forwarding. It makes sure that any user trying to ccess your LAN through those open ports only can see your DVR and thats another reason accounts are important so that users have to use a username and password to access the DVR once they have reached it. Once you have successfully done all this, your DVR should be available over yuor LAN and the www Don't expect it to work 100% of the time the WWW being what it is but most of the time is reasonable to expect.

Have you selected reuseable in the account setup for the account you are using? It is selected by default if you are using the admin account usually butif you created user accounts you need to select reaseable or whatever other DVRs call it.

You weren't to know were you? Mistakes are how we learn. The message is kind of assuming you are in the correct subnet so the message (in your case) doesn't really give you enough of a clue where you were going astray.

1. What Router do you have? 2. What is the make and model of DVR you have? 3. Have you reserved the DVR's Local IP? What ports have you opened.?

Well done! Sometimes the professionals can't help because a pro working in the field wouldn't have time to messa round with a camera to that extent. In this case the pros can learn something from you. Again, well done! " title="Applause" /> " title="Applause" /> " title="Applause" />

I think I took from what you said you are viewing remotely, would that be on the same LAN as the DVR or remotely from offsite or have I got that wrong? Do you lose just a couple or all cameras?

Try asking the installer that originally installed it or supplied it to reset your password for you. Should be free.

Good luck...luck...

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There are wireless controller's on ebay they use a remote control unit and you wore the telemetry into the receiver. They are about £15 -£30 and made for the DIY enthusiast or domestic user. They are from what I am told pretty bulletproof. Try searching ebay for remote control PTZ controller I found loads on ebay UK but of course have no idea where you are. Alternatively you could use a telemetry sender received set if money is no object but it's a bit of a 'sledgehammer to crack a nut' honestlyStrangely I was recently asked about one of these by a client recently and I advised him the same thing EBAY Personally I prefer the feel and tactile response of a joystick. Don't think this remote controller will work as well as a joystick connected directly to your PTZ because you'll probably be disappointed.

I think by now it's either in Landfill or back in use....

TODAY I MADE A MOST EMBARRASSING ERROR I drilled through a customer's Sky TV (satellite service) cables. Fair enough they were berried in the wall's plaster just above the skirting, I suppose I should be grateful it wasn't a mains cable? I was drilling from the outside in since the wall face is pebble-dashed ( a sort of cement render finished in small stones embedded into the surface) and going outwards on render would risk blow out of abig chunk of the render. The client was very understanding and was happy when I left since I prioritized restoring his Sky TV cables. A sort of twinax RG58 not the same RG58 used in 2 way radio, much thinner. I found the cable in B & Q and the f type connectors in Maplin fortunatly. The biggest damage is to my pride, and perhaps pocket. That Philex Twinax is EXPENSIVE. Under the pebble dash is 3 inches of insulation board, that's a problem will have to solve tomorrow fixing to the masonry through 3 inch foam board. I am planning on using 110mm hammer in fixings anything you've used that worked well and can recommend I'd be grateful. LESSON LEARNED... Pebble dash rendering.........................................Hammer in fixings

I was working in Stockport, and I think the fault was with the council contractors who installed the outer insulation boards not with the sky installer. Or I think a former owner could have installed this cable as I think you Sky guys use compression connectors and these were all screw-ons. Thanks for the offer though.