Numb-nuts

THIS JUST HAS TO BE A SETUP since there is no overlay on the footage and the camera moves with it's operator. But a jollu funny one though. I like the way the operator let them get into full flow but the squatter, I'd have called the police. A simple fence would stopp all thee people coming to the corner.

I recently went to maintain a system where the installer had not only used indoor cable outdoor, he seemed to treat the rainwater gutters as a cable tray. Yes he ran cables along the inside of the gutters. Some of the gutters were full of leaf debris and weren't flowing fully. Next time I am on that site and I find some more I will get the mobile out and take some snaps.

I use cheap baluns from a known source and only one batch gave me a problem. However on the installation I refer to I used quality baluns costing nearly 3 times the price I normally pay. Like I said I use ferrules between the conductor and the baluns and they never cause issues. .............................................. My usual SC baluns cheap but they work well with my 4 way and 8 way balun receivers ............................................................................... My better quality SC baluns (RJ45 version shown with power and Video signal)

Firstly, Your hostname should be ********.no-ip.org notice the DOT org not -org in the network settings dialogue box have to set the DHCP to disable or unticked? This should be unticked. Next, where did you get the IP for your DVR was it through the DHCP? I always set the device identifier to 200 or higher to avoid IP conflicts. It might be useful to know what brand and model your router is. On some routers the IP range are all in the HCP range and you have to set the address you choose to static before port forwarding. Yes I always set all the ports to 'both' TCP and UDP that way you don't need to know which is appropriate as one of them has to be. Port 80 or 81 is your HTTP port, i.e. your internet port. This is the port you use for viewing your DVR via a browser (usually IE but Firefox is also good) You simply type the IP address 192.168.0.12 when logged on your LAN, and the public IP (or DNS hostname) when outside the network ( works both in the LAN and outside) followed by a colon ( and the HTTP port number, in this case 81 eg *******.no-ip.org:81 typing this into the address bar of a browser, you should be presented with a login page. USERNAME PASSWORD The other ports you need to open are the media port and the mobile monitor port. If you want to use a tablet also open the RTSP port which is listed under your NETSERVICES menu where you can read the default mobile monitor port also.

PEEING is a fairly common one, I forget the number of times I've seen this. Both men and women! (not at the same time you understand lol) I remember recently showing a bunch of office girls how to operate IVMS4200 on the large screen in their office. While we were doing it, the cameras overlooking the loading bays and the trucks queuing to load up. One of the girls said 'whats he upto?' I daid well let see and handed her the mouse and she double clicked the relevant camera. Suddenly he reached down and facing the camera started to pull something out. "Oh" said I as we all realized what was about to happen. One of the girls suggested we retrive the recording and load it on YOUTUBE... (I'm not saying if they did as I don't know) I've viewed several of idiots peeing in the shop doorway of client's shops one even peeing close to the bread rolls left outside a burger place by their bakery. The nerve of some people. I do blame local government to some degree since I can't remember the last time I saw a public toilet. They were everywhere when I was a boy, now they have all dissapeared but men and (women) haven't stopped peeing Another incident I viewed was two horses making whoopee, the camera was meant as a foaling camera, but was left in place after the successful foaling. Just as well really they'll be needing it again soon I imagine BUT THE QUESTION WAS, THE WEIRDEST REASON FOR BUYING CCTV FROM A CUSTOMER OR END USER.

The issue you have with moving the cable and balun connection can be solved by stripping the conductor carefully and installing a 0.25mm ferrule before reinserting into the balun. You can then screw the clamps down onto the ferrule very tightly withot fear of fracturing the copper conductor. This DOES work. Tried and tested I use insulated ferrules purely because they have colours identifying their size and I use a CK stripper on 0.25mm cable cat5 (and cat6) which prevents and weakening scores in the conductor, the ferrules are crimped and then either screwed or pushed into the balun depending on which typ of fitting they have. Nowadays I use an automatic crimper but the style shown worked well too.

I am trying to solve the same problem with a recent re-install of mine. I tried all the cameras seperately on a my test screen and each produced a 'clean image'. First you need to test check the VGA cable at both ends, see if there are any bent or broken pins in the plugs. Try an alternative screen. Next try a sample of the recordings and play back on a computer see if the DVR is recording the noise, if not it could be the DVR's display or the screen. Then you need to try another power supply, ( try this first actually) failing which, try another DVR if you can. There is a uniform electrical noise across the entire screen, however the remote view is perfectly clean? These little issues are sent to try our patience.

I like the story about two native Americans discussing how they got their names....

Often when attending work sites I have to remove cameras that have either failed or are simply to be replaced. Very often, the fixings won't undo and they are rusted on and no quantitly of releasing fluid will remove them. ANSWER? I always carry a small 4" angle grinder to remove the nuts or bolt head. Recently I had to do this, obviously I wear heavy gloved and glasses as protection. You might think this were reasonably sufficient? NOT A BIT OF IT! That evening I noticed a small wound on my right arm, a little sore but nothing that serious. I simply put it down to a skin imperfection that had erupted. Then next day or two, I noticed a hole that appeared to have been burnt into my fleece jacket. NO others like a splash from acid, but just the one. Then after submitting my shirt that I wore that day to the boss for laundry, we noticed a burn in the sleeve. I suddenly realized these were all in the same spot, so I re examined the hole in the fleece. It was surrounded by burnt plastic type material as you might expect. Pulling at it I found something solid and after removing it, found that it was a bolt-head which I had ground off and it had burnt it's way through to my arm. This was the first time I have ever had anything like this happen and so it was a serious shock and to realize how lucky I had been was a real education in safety. Since this is not something I regularly do, the question is what can I buy that would protect my body from neck down. I checked the safety wear websites and found this I think it has to be worth the money especially where safety is now more of a concerned. You can fix a bib to the lower front to complete the lower torso protection too. UPDATE: wow expensive it's cheaper to just buy a chrome leather welder's jacket so thats what I am doing. Yeah I know putting on such a jacket just to cut a few bolts off is a real nuisance, but think of the potential for a really nasty burn? I think I got away lucky.

I just thought it went with the handle. Kind of light hearted right?

Right on ALL counts I was up a ladder and yes I was wearing synthetics, hard to avoid them these days 9/10 times when the angle grinder comes out I will be up a ladder as you can probably guess, so I am always going to be working above head height. Hat, Gloves, Glasses and leather from now on.... Also the cost of replacing the burnt clothing is quite gut wrenching. I still can't get over the fact that I didn't actually realize for DAYS!!!!! Is it a nuisance to get geared up just to cut a few nuts and bolts off? YEP IT IS... however the pain of burnt clothing and potentially skin burning and potential for infection are worth avoiding and just imagine if that had gone into an eye. It is from my point of view, a lesson in personal safety I couldn't think of a nickname for the forum. I don't really do nicknames so my friend said to me 'come on NN how difficult can it be to think of a nick name?" so I took that one. It makes no real reference to me... I hope. I cant imagine ever taking the risk to catch my finger with an angle grinder, it must simply remove the skin and fling it over your shoulder so nothing left to heal over the wound, OUCH!

If you know the manufacturer, try updating the firmware, watch out for an option to save the existing settings and don't save them. If the unit has no name on it them you're stuffed unless the supplier comes back and frankly I am guessing that they don't even know. Have you tried leaving the password blank?

I would recommend you allow the whole job to be done bt a security installer. The reason I say that is I am guessing that you bought your own equipment, and if part of the installation is already done, why on earth would a security installer be interested in your job? As a security installer I make some of my money on the equipment, some on the installation and very little on the commissioning. I think that a security installer might be feeling somewhat 'resentful' of you once he realizes that there is very little left for him to do and that you've had it all done on the cheap. Anyway, I would be satisfied just doing a full install of your own equipment. Once you get several people involved, I promise you id things should go wrong everyone involved will deny responsibility and blame the others. Then where will you be? I read a lot of threads where the wireguys added their 2 cents worth, and I believe they would most-likely do a proper, tidy jobwith the wire and the setup etc. That would be my take on this situation anyway.... best of British By the way the problem with security companies that grow too fast is that they need staff and have to take on whats available whereas a slowly expanding company can take far more care in choosing a suitable technician that does a tidy job with integrity.

Unlikely you will find a smartphone or a tablet that has the processor power to interrogate remotely for playback and I don't think I've seen an app that will do remote config or playback. You should however be able to take live video and save it or snapshots at least. The port you need to access is a separate one usually 34567 and that is reserved mainly for CMS on your laptop which will playback and allow you to remote configure. Get a netbook or something a little bigger (15.6") and then you can interrogate the HDD remotely. we are fast, but not that fast YET!

Or VMeye

ALL OF A SUDDEN I CANT GET CONTRALUBE IN THE UK I AM DESOLATED I use CONTRALUBE on all connections especially where they are in a weather resistant junction box. I like contralube because that is what I always have used and it's not an aerosol, it squeezes out of the tube right where I want it doesn't go all over everything. I am was looking to buy a few tubes this week and suddenly out of nowhere everyplace I have bought it before are saying 'discontinued' Even Amazon hasn't got any suppliers for it. whats going on? Before anyone suggests silicone grease forget it, I've seen where that has dried out and it forms a white non conductive powder that insulates rather than lubricates. I don't like using servisol 10 or 40 as they tend to go EVERYWHERE rather than just where you want.

This is the Reply I got from Newgate Simms, the manufacturer of Contralube The new price makes it almost as expensive as GOLD, on a weight for weight basis. As much as I find it an invaluable product, this is one installer that will be looking for an alternative. Hi Mark, My name is Peter from Newgate Simms, the maker of Contralube....I'm the tech help/product support chap. The 75gram tube is now out of stock (maybe the odd one hanging around on Amazon or ebay?) I'm sorry for this Mark but it can't be helped. Some background... A key supplier of the base oil and a chemical required to make the product went bust. They were a cheap supplier from the far east and although we have secured a new long term supply for the future, the price has shot through the roof. The new base oil for the grease is much superior but in reality the average user wouldn't notice the difference so Contralube 770 is "new and improved formula" but I'm not sure if customers would notice the difference. This massive price jump is not something we wanted to do and we did think about discontinuing the product. However, Contralube 770 has a surprisingly loyal following and does tick over nicely each year. Some resellers did not think the product would sell at the new price but we haven't seen a negative effect. Contralube 770 is a problem solving product and (within reason) people would pay whatever it takes to fix their problems...this opinion has been backed up by recent events; yes people are annoyed at the price rise but they still keep buying the product. Again, sorry about the price rise Mark, we are only a small UK manufacturer but really want to keep the product going as it has some big fans out there. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact me. I've attached the new updated product data sheet and our 'facts & myths' sheet for you (in case you haven't seen them before). Data sheet Facts & Myths Regards Peter Newgate Simms SPECIALITY CHEMICALS & LUBRICANTS

Dielectric grease is an insulator as the name suggests and not a conductive and protective material. I got an email from the manufacturer of Contralube in answer to my email. Whats actually happened they have hiked the price more than four times and discontinued the 75g tube since it would now cost in the region of £75-£80 (ridiculous) in favour of mini sachets and 25g tubes. Looks like I am going to be using Servisol 10 when my current supply finishes. This is REALLY irritating....

Homeplugs are surprisingly reliable. I ALWAYS have at least one in the van and I use one at home too NEVER buy NETGEAR because although they are a good name, the regularly go wrong out of the box and then you get a refurbished item to replace it WHAT A DAMN LIBERTY THE NETGEAR WARRANTY BUY A NEW ITEM AND WHEN IT GOES WRONG OR IS D.O.A. THEY PROMISE TO REPLACE IT WITH A 'REFURBISHED ITEM' ISN'T THAT THE KIND OF DEAL WE ALL DREAM ABOUT.....................well er, actually no its not! Netgear take note!

You can ONLY playback what has recorded so if there is no recording for your selected time period it will error message you. Firstly record more, them check schedule and then check which record mode you are using in record config menu there are three tick boxes aside each schedule. You should have only one or two ticks alarm, motion OR schedule but never all three and only on schedules that are active. Check out QVIS security support pages or ADATA.co.uk support pages for how to set record and playback.

Janice surely in Singapore you have trade directories? A good security installer if not specifically a CCTV installer should be able to help you. Good luck.

Mystery solved... I got an email from DYN this morning and apparently the domain that I have been using dyndns.ws for all my clients accounts had EXPIRED. How this can happen I have no idea but it did. Haven't these people heard of automated payments? They indicated this link which I couldn't find anywhere on their website http://www.dynstatus.com/dyndns/5330/dyndns-ws-outage Anyway if there is a lesson to be learnt from this it's don't put all your eggs in a single basket i.e. don't use the same domain for all your clients use each one for about 5 or so then you'll not have a deluge of clients calling if one of Dyn's domains expires again. I am just amazed they allowed this to happen at all. So I will be using various domains in blocks of about 5 at a time. If all the same ones go down at onece I'll know what's going on. Frankly I am amazed that I got a response from DYN at all they aren't very good at replying to emails but on this occasion they managed to admit the fault and correct it. issue resolved

Anyone having problems with their DYNDNS pro accounts? Yesterday out of nowhere all my host names just suddenly stopped working (most have been working fine for ages) now they all seem to have stopped working? has anyone else had a similar problem? Any suggestions what to check?

Well its the same evening and most of them are back operating as normal. I have had no replies to my emails to DYN support (if it actually exists) there is just one host name remaining to recover proper operation. There could be another reason, as thats a new one I just set up and I always assume the fault is with my settings until I prove otherwise. This has robbed me of my free time this weekend and there has been NOTHING I can do (or could do) about it. I hate when things like this are outside of my control because customers phone me expecting me to have an answer and the only answer I can give is I am looking into it whereas actually there is little I can do except wait. This is frustrating for me and my customers. What I didn't understand was that a customer that is local to me suffered a loss yesterday so it was on my way home. I called in and changed his host name domain reset his DVR and remote software accordingly and they worked and are still working without a problem. This is NOT a practical solution because I cannot travel to all the clients and do the same, it would be impossible logistically and besides why should I have to?

Min had been working correctly until yesterday, I have just looked at the DYN status and there are some maintenance issues in London, I think I'll just have to wait for a response to my emails. That could take forever!