Numb-nuts

Don't forget that rear-view cameras are reversed image, think about it... If you do go for one make sure you can flip the image. If you can that would be better but otherwise it seems the obvious choice if you do not need to record. Fix on a point on the camera image, then move the camera to the left the picture moves to the right therefore when reversing the image shows the wrong direction, so the image has to be flipped to work as a reversing camera. Yeah I know it takes some getting your head around, I couldn't comprehend it at first.

I found this tool £22 incl on ebay, looks like a home made job but see what you think. I don't use rivnuts so often as to warrant an expensive setting-tool but this looks like it will do the job well especially up a ladder, using a cordless drill to drive the nut at the end UPDATE: I tried this tool today and I used a cordless drill with a 1/4' adaptor to drive it with a 7/16 (11mm) socket. It works fine and it doesn't allow you to over-tighten the rivnut. If you use a cordless drill, remember to undo the tool BEFORE you remove it. If you try to undo it in your hand you could end up ripping your hand to shreds like I did. Another tip I discovered when using aluminium (aluminum) is instead of using a 9mm drill bit for M6 I bought a drill bit slightly smaller (8.9) and hammered the rivnut in.

Anyone in UK, in Manchester Lancashire Derbyshire or Cheshire that is interested in sub-contract installation work please contact me by PM with your contact details. I am offering the work not asking for work.

I love watching wildlife. I have squirrels at the back regularly using the fences as a sort of squirrel highway. I have often thought about building a squirrel assault-course for them to play on. They are very playful and I often see them playing together on the back lawn. I don't have any cameras at the back but may now put some out there to see if I can capture some squirrel play.

Searching for images for my new website I found this I thought might amuse you Copyrighted The Image Works

I have just tried the nut and bolt method of inserting and setting rivnuts. I'm sorry but Its not very effective, and damned awkward to accomplish when up a ladder. My advice would be to get a rivnut setting tool even a cheap one might be better than wasting time and effort using just a nut and bolt. The theory is very good but in practice the method is very disappointing.

Not sure I am too impressed with your screwdriver rattling technique but very interesting nevertheless.

I just gave my Foscam IP cam to my best friens so he can view his front drive. He wants to view the camera from his TV aswellas record it on his Mac. I am using Vitamin D for the Mac but how on earth do I connetc an IP camera so that he cans connect it to his TV twin tuner? I haven't a clue on this one???? Be grateful for some ideas and advice.The tuner and TV aren't the latest so no RJ45 socket so we may be looking at composite input to the TV from the router?

It was a joke about ladders.

Sadly, I can only dream of such installs just at the moment. Need a hell of a set of ladders for that though.

I knew that lol I just call it EMT= Metal conduit ENT = Plastic Conduit CFPC = Corrugated Flexible Plastic Conduit flexicon for short PVC = PVC yeah honestly I did know that, but I tend not to use acronyms unless I know what they mean. Most people that I have spoken to know what CCTV is but haven't a clue it's Closed Circuit TeleVision as opposed to broadcast television. Although I suppose it's not really closed circuit anymore if you want to be strictly accurate. Thanks for indulging me guys. Lets get back on thread

Sorry guys you appear to be speaking a differet language to me. What is EMT? Since we are talking about conduit here I am guessing the MT are metal tube but the E/ Take pity on a poor Brit let me in on the secret.

Nice picture, don't forget to remove the ladder before you pour the concrete The kind of view you'll get half way up at say 25ft will be about right to utilize a good PTZ's zoom capability. The problem is most people new to CTV believe PTZ cameras to be capable of a lot more than they are. A security guard is usually operation these in corporate premises and even with tour and presets they are not a lot better than a few static cameras. The other thing is that you could use the tour presets function, but even so you may miss something that occurs when the camera is elswhere and it may catch something but continue to move through it's tour. You need to have one PTZ, supported by at least three static (overview) cameras on Motion Detection, or some good PIRs to alert you to actual alarms through beeping on activate. Then you can swing the PTZ to where the action is and zoom in. The higher you go the less detail you will get, unless it's the tops of cars and people's heads you are interested in. Height can have advantages, but it can also ruin a good view. Those that you see high up on corporate buildings and traffic masts are watching wide areas for traffic control and car park security. They are practically used for an overview rather than security and detection. They do have greater capability but can typically cost in the region of several thousand dollars. I doubt even Nelly's can supply a used one for that kind of money but definitely a surplus PTZ in your price range for your purpose is a strong possibility, you will also require a Controller. You can get some static zoom cameras but frankly I'm not impressed with those at all. If you do, remember to align the view at full zoom as once the zoom is at 1:1 you won't be ale to move the view only to zoom in to the centre of the picture. With this type you will also need camera housings. What power are you transmitting at? I ask because RF interference may be an issue.

Well thats a step in the right direction at least.

I have always felt sick at the thought of black puddin' but this is a step too far. Black pudding click the link if you don't know what it is. It's a kind of 'Boudin' or 'Blutwurst' literally translated as 'blood sausage"

I concur, cheap plugs are a false economy.

I was just using my new ladders this morning to clean my camera lenses and PTZ dome. I also remover a redundant camera which I promised to a friend. (It's a Foscam IP camera so no great loss) Those ladders ARE heavy to the point that I can only just manage them on my own. They are so stable with the stabilizer foot and deep rungs that I like the comfort I get. No point buying longer ones if I can't handle them alone. I am satisfied i made the right choice. The rungs are big and deep and very comfortable. If I need a taller ladder, I'll hire one for the and move it piece by piece if necessary, then any higher and I'll rent a scissor lift or cherry picker. Point is we never put cameras too high or they are not effective because they capture tops of heads, and really at that height should view a wide angle to be effective. I might need the higher ladders for masts or pendant mounts. Whatever happens, one way or another I'll tackle the problem when it happens meantime I will let practicality be my guide and be glad I can manage these ladders. They spent their first night outside last night as I spent the morning fitting the locking brackets to the wall. I use the same keyed alike padlocks on the wall mounted brackets as I do on the roof bar clamps, so thats useful. Those step ladders do look heavy and not too stable, but I have learned not to judge. I thought this looked unstable until I tried it in step ladder mode, I have to say it was stable and I felt entirely safe and I am cautious where it comes to safety. With regards to using knives on site, I learned as a boy scout that a dull knife is a dangerous knife so I always use the sharpest blade. I also have cut myself in the past and it was a painful nuisance and takes ages to heal. I just decided one day to not take chances anymore and have avoided painful cuts. My dad always told me if you have to force things, you're doing it wrong. Well while in the most parts I agree sometimes you have to use a little force, but not with knives. Those self-retracting blades are news to me, I never heard of them. I still have my dads retractable Stanley knife. It looks like new, as I have stripped and painted it a few times, but it must be nearly 40 yr old. I have a broom thats about that age, it's had several new heads and a couple of new handles but it's lasted almost 40 yrs

Sociopath !

A classic case of the lunatics running the asylum! It shows the decision that was made was too unimportant to think about so they simply ban ladders and worry about practicalities later.

GE, Pelco, Bosch (Extreme), all have their budget line of cameras, but that doesnt mean those come anywhere close to their regular cameras. Most cases its the same chinese OEM cameras one can buy at 1/4 the price from a smaller brand. Thats a good point

not quite

I can't wait to see these pictures fellas, it's like a duel by digipic.

That's the problem with getting new tools - you actually go LOOKING for work to use them It's a rare day I get to install any system without using ladders. Buut you are right those guters will never have been so clean. I am considering making a cover for the ladders while they are stored on the wall outside. I know this may sound a bit daft but I am worried about the support straps stretching. They are nylon or similar webbing but are not detachable. Does anyone have any tips for reducing wind noise while ladders are on the roof bars, Anything over 50 mph and they whine like a wounded animal. I was thinking of wrapping the fronts in plastic tarp or making a kind of sock out of a plastic tarp and pulling it over the front of the ladders. The bars on their own don't make a sound.

If I were the installer I'd tell you to take a walk if you did that. His pricing is very strange. I would ask him if he would re negotiate the price. If you buy your own equipment and you are not happy when the system in installed, the installer will say you bought the equipment it's no good, but if you buy from the installer he will make sure that everything works together and is of good quality. If it's not it's his responsibility. The guy's gotta make a living too, it's not all about price. I'm just surprised he itemized the prices of individual items. I list all items and place a single price plus labour and commissioning. at the end but then the customer knows what equipment they are buying.

Ok then RG59 and a 18-2 Cat5 SUCKS for video and power. It's solid coper and ALWAYS breaks at the Balun or the power splice over time. I don't agree, cat5 is very good it's just that cat5 is not designed to work with screw down terminals, it is designed for IDC punch-down terminals or crimping. If you use cat5 for for video or power it should be terminated using cord end ferrules properly crimped to the ends. This will solve the intermittence problems many people experience. I have remedied many problems using ferrules and frankly I wouldn't use cat5 without them unless using an RJ45. You need a crimper with a lower end range from 0 .25mm or at the very least 0.5mm the upper limit is up to you probably as much as 6mm. This supplier quotes sizes in both AWG and mm. Click image to visit the supplier