Numb-nuts

Well I did just buy some ladders, I bought the Abru combination ladder. I wanted to buy the 3section x 12 rungs that would have allowed me to work at a height of about 25-27 ft. When I went to see these at a place that had them in stock, I tried the 10 rung set and I couldn't lift them by myself. That was a shock to my ego but nevertheless a fact I could not ignore. Therefore I tried the 3 x 10 and was able to maneuver it into place and lift it. Okay it only gave me a working height of 17 - 20 ft but what choice did I have? It was also about £90 cheaper than the 3 x 12. It is very stable indeed, I was very pleasantly surprised. The ladder rungs are rounded over when the ladder is inclined, and they are quite wide rungs, making this a very comfortable ladder. The ladder has a 900mm wide stabilizer bar which is very good but restricting when moving the ladder about. I could replace the nuts holding the stabilizer on with wing nuts I suppose but they'd only get lost. I bought two sets of ladder securing brackets for roofbars, one for my step ladder and one for the new ladder, and I bought one set of wall hooks to store the ladders on overnight. I bought a set of 3 'keyed alike' padlocks to secure the ladders when on the van roof and when on the wall brackets. I fixed the wall brackets to the wall with shear nuts which break off at a certain torque, leaving a conical nut that cannot easily be removed. An angle grinder would be needed. I Can't wait for the next opportunity to use the ladders. I think I'll clear out the gutters tomorrow.

Could the keyboard be a used one? If may have dust in the switch that the only time I have ever seen what you are describing. I use IDC junction boxes in the same or a similar way. Thats what cat5 was designed for so it makes sense. I understand that jelly crimps are very popular too.

Can't comment, I haven't fitted that DVR so I'm not familiar with it. But the battery usually holds setting changes to the embedded software. Are you sure you didn't just rename the admin account as accounts have "status".

Not knowing which DVR you are referring to, I would hazard a guess that the account you are using is NOT an admin account and therefore you don't have the required permissions to do a full reset to default.

I am all for adapting materials like conduits etc to smarten up a home install. It's different from a commercial install where you aren't usually required to be that sensitive to what the conduit looks like. I have painted plastic conduit to match brickwork or timber sidings on a homeowner's property. I think they appreciate your sensitivity. Some businesses will be the same but I haven't found one yet. It's really a matter of pride in your work too and I know you have that in bundles from when you first posted the Church pics. Just trust your own instincts you won't do badly I am sure.

Termination is not required on the DVR settings. Before climbing any ladders and running any cable may I suggest you set up a bench test to prove the cameras and your wiring method. It doesn't take long and you will know where you are headed with this installation. You've got all the info you need now, It's not as complicated as it sounds. Once you see the cameras PTZing your confidence will soar. I always try and bench test before climbing any ladders. You have the advantage that you are not under a huge time constraint. Only the cheap as chips Chinese specials are going to cause you difficulty, those are relatively good cameras god luck chaps.

I reckon they have potential, the colours are all there and no colour distortion there's a good chance your picture can be improved significantly.

With just two PTzs it doesn't really mater which config you use. Don't forget to terminate the controller which is usually a menu item option on or off. That PTZ is a Samsung manufactured unit although not in their range, but it's probably a straightforward install without quirky problems. Nice camera for home user. Has a very good instruction manual, better than most. The section for RS485 is very good so follow that.

Before you judge, you should set the back focus see this page to explain I have seen so many fantastic cameras not working at their optimum for failure to back-focus.

In this case if the domes are about 3kg and not the ususal 7Kg you could try using Rivnuts. You don't neet a fancy tool to close them. Lets say you got some M6 rivnuts then you need an M6 x 75 mm set screw and M6 (not self locking). You then need a socket wrench that fits the set screw and a spanner, open or ring that fit a the nut. Drill the hole, for M6 it's usually about 9mm but check, then insert the rivnut and screw the nut onto the set screw about half way up the thread then screw the set screw into the rivnut and holding the setscrew still star to bring the nut down against the rivnut. It will tighten until the rivnut colapses onto the aluminium sheet. When it's set back the nut off and remove the set screw VOiLA one threades sheet of cladding. Make sure you get the holes absolutely lined up or you will have trouble Don't forget to use washers when you fix to the rivnut with your bracket. I've seen this tool on ebay for about £15. The only other ones start around £30 and do M8 through M10. Rivnuts or nutserts their other name are available in smaller quantities until you decide what ones you like to use then you can buy a years supply and forget about it like I do with small components.Of course you can supplement the strength of your install by drilling only once into a steel beam but I would avoid doing that (or increase your public liability insurance) I just noticed you want to keep the existing 4mm holes, so obviously the size to get are M4s which makes me think the camera is definitely quite light PS you may have to pop river a piece of metal to span the corrugations if you can't get it to fit on one raised area

(like in your picture 1) Each camera has a line radiating from a single point, the one that has the longest run is considered the last camera assuming you use the same RS485 cable to all of them. If you don't you make a job for yourself trying termination on each camera until you find the appropriate one to terminate Is that any help?

When you coonect severa PTz's together on the same RS485 line back to eithr the DVR or controller, there are two sistinct ways to do this. 1. in series (or daiseychain) RS485 in RS485 out 2, in a star pattern from a single pint or camera When in series the last camera in the chain needs the chain terminating with a 320Ohm resistor (usually built in) When a start pattern is used, the furthest camera needs the termination. In both cases the controller will need terminating too and the cameras will (depending on the controller) need to have the same protocol settings with unique address numbers per camera. Choosing may well be to do with the manufacturer of the cameras assuming they are all the same brand daiseychaining is okay but can give problems where different cameras are connected together. (I don't know why this is) So in such cases it may be better to revert to the star pattern. Where a combination of static and PTZs are connected to the same controller the star pattern is the patten of choice (The static cameras are joined in to control their OSM via the controller)

Eneo make board cameras that can control auto iris. You can get them from Traders Warehouse. They are NOT cheap. If you can find the KT&C ones they are a better option.

I found myself in a similar situation, I found twist ons hard work and not that good, so after that I never re considered using them again. Some people swear by them, but hey are not for me and yes they really are hard work. I'd rather patch a cable together than use twist on plugs again. But if you like them guys, don't let me stop you. I do like the newer screw terminal BNCs by Neutric, not as a permanent fix you understand, but I would like to have couple of them as test connectors as they are easy to remove and re-use. By the way my crimp tool was bought from RS components in 1986 and is still as smooth as the day it arrived, better I think. I know the feel of this tool, it's like part of my hand.

me too! I suppose we know who comes a close second

Is this guy the most boring guy in the world? See what you think, see if you can which starts out quite well until this geek starts speaking (yawn) see how long you can keep listening?

Welcome Mick, glad to have you with us I am going to look at linkedin myself this week. Brits Rule " title="Applause" /> " title="Applause" /> " title="Applause" />

If you are starting from scratch, the BEST BNC connectors without a doubt are the snap tight types, sometimes called waterproof or compression connectors. With this type the centre pin is usually captive and needs no crimping. There are however some on the market that do have a separate pin, I am not sure if they are barbed or if they require crimping, if they do require crimping they are a waste of time unless the compression tool crimps the pin also, most don't which means you'd need a RG59 crimp tool just to do the centre pin. They use specific type compression crimper available about £20 in Maplin. There are better ones but the Maplin one does the job. The connectors are relatively expensive in the UK at the moment as they aren't that easy to get cheaply but they can be had on ebay quite cheaply if you buy quantity. Most installers that I know, already have a good quality crimping tool that is designed for RG59 BNCs and some other coax types. Consider this: If you already have a tool that was not cheap and the connectors are readily available everywhere and of relatively good quality, would you switch to a connector that is expensive and requires you to buy a new crimping tool making your existing tool redundant? I'm not. The 3 part BNC crimps on the market are relatively cheap, and readily available from reliable sources. I always buy the top branded ones that command a higher price but thats my preference some of the cheaper ones are also good unfortunately some are pretty poor. I am not prepared to take the chance of having to return to a job because a BNC has become faulty, the cost of the time involved is not worth the extra for a better connector. Properly executed, crimp on BNCs are excellent and have been reliable for years. I have been to many a job that is being refurbished completely and never once had a replacement crimp BNC they have lasted for years, I have been using crimp RF connectors in one form or another since 1985. I buy most of mine from RS components or Farnell. You can also get nice quality in the UK from Coax Solutions, (formerly Robinsons Connectors) in the UK. You will expect to buy quantity from Coax Solutions. If you just wan't small quantities go to RSC or Farnell. My choice would at this stage be the 3 piece crimp. I do recognize that the new compression fitting BNcs are excellent but for the extra benefit I am not yet tempted. That is my own reasoning. 3 piece BNC crimps have a good track record and for my money are the only option at the moment. If I were starting afresh, I'd have to reconsider my decision. I have to agree with Soundy on this one, there is no best choice. It's a matter of personal preference, while crimp plugs have a long successful service record, there are other BNC types like twist on and screw on types, Neutric and of course the newest, very nice to use compression connectors, in the end it depends what your personal circumstances and choices are. I'm not throwing away my crimp tool just yet it has a long service life left and I aim to squeeze every penny I can earn from it.

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By the way Luke, I packed your housing up a for the post tomorrow I threw in a small PSU that is just cluttering the place up. I'll send you a tracking number.

I like anything where the criminal gets their just desserts, gets caught, gets inconvenienced, etc. Its kind of revenge by proxy

Puts you right off your cellulite pie doesn't it?

Yes I think that was it. I've seen it twice now. I wanted to see if I could pick up some tips before I next go to Tesco. lol