epulliam

this is stuff I've pretty much bought to play with since I first started messing around with surveillance gear. I don't have any use for it anymore, but it would be useful to someone. 2 authentic gv1240 12ch dvr pci cards - also come with a internal rs232/rs485 board $40e 1 authentic gv1480 16ch dvr pci card - comes with internal rs232/485 board + external usb version $75 1 19" wall mount lcd monitor with vga + bnc input $30 3 adjustable smoked dome color cameras w/ auto iris $25 ea 1 box style 12v/24v indoor color camera with larger lense and auto iris $20 1 nice full function ptz controller keyboard and joystick (arm electronics) $40 1 gen iv 16ch standalone networked dvr (it's really nice) g4a16x i think $250 1 pro video color quad processor 20$ 1000' siamese coax with 2 copper conductor in 1 jacket (on 2 500' spools) 1 - some kind of microphone controller / recorder - Ill have to get more details (Louroe APS-1) - lets you play back and isolate audio - has circuitry to clean up voices and remove background noise 1 - nice indoor infrared illuminator - nice one, not the cheap ones where you can see the led's, big heatsink on back $40 1 axis single input video server (about 5 years old) - works great - can use phone app or web browser - great video frame rate - smooth video across the web $70 several extra pigtails for 12 - 16 ch pci cards - video bnc syle to db25 and audio rca style to db9 a whole tacke box full of board cameras with all types of lenses from the smallest pinhole to the adapter to add a full tv lense even c mount to add pentax slr zoom lenses \\ ask what you are interested in, im not concerned with what I originally paid for this stuff, just trying to get rid of stuff I know I'll never use for a very fair price or a trade for something I haven't had a chance to play with!

pro video color quad processor - $20 500' siamese rg59 + 2 conductor - $50 4 wren stationary smoked dome cameras w auto iris - $40 ea 3 geo 1480 16ch pci cards $150 ea 3 geo internal rs232/rs485 cards - 1 free w 1480 or $15 ea 2 geo usb rs232/rs485 - $15 ea 1 ptz keyboard/joystick (ARM SDKBD3) nice, steel not plastic - $75 1 extra set of video pigtails for 1480 - $35 2 16 output fused 24v ac dual transformer power supply box - $35 pci cards were purchased new from authorized dealer 100% real 100% guaranteed working/tested - have hologram, legit serial #, blue board. actual insured shipping of your choice from Tennessee. These items were used at a family business for less than 1 year, used but like new condition (except for the spool of cable which of course is unused).

This pinout is much easier to understand than the one I attached to the post above a couple yrs ago. This cable is 3/4 of the battle. I figure I'll upload whatever it will let me post to this board (it still won't let me upload all the technical guides) since I've had dozens of emails over the past couple years.

Yes, that's why I posted the procedure. There was one thing wrong in that post. It's not that you must enter the password they send you within 24 hours of getting the output. You must enter the reset password on the same date (to your dvr) as when you got the output code you emailed to hikvision. ex. if your dvr says it's 8/16/2012 at 11pm, you will want to wait an hour before getting the code you will send, because as soon as the dvr ticks past midnite and displays 8/17/2012 the password they generate from the code you emailed them will no longer be valid. It must be entered the same day as the code was made. This prevents any reset password from being used twice, because that day at midnite, the password expires. Also, to answer the other question, I use a hikvision program called iVMS-4500 to do the remote viewing. The ipad app, and iphone apps I have are named the same thing. I have it hooked to the alarm system now, and I have the dvr email me a still when someone enters or disarms the alarm after business hours. The hikvision iphone and ipad apps can also send you a msg then open up live viewing when anything is disarmed or triggered. I rarely use the browser viewing anymore since I have the apps and program that let me go back through events, not just view live. It also lets me view up to 16 different dvrs, even though i only have 2 in 2 locations. But it lets you take cameras from the different locations and save a custom multiplex view, instead of having to switch back and forth between dvrs. They keep updating the software, I assume for new models, but the new software does all the same stuff with the older (3 year old) models too. There is another version called iVMS-5600. I downloaded it into the ipad but have yet to enter all the network info into it to get it going. I still have all the technical documents if anyone needs them, these are much more in depth and technical than the info that came with the dvr when you bought it. also - if you find a cat5 to serial cable or adapter made for something else, use a multimeter and the diagram I made above and CHECK the PINOUT! I had 2 different pre made cables, one made for a vhf motorola police radio, and one for a cisco router, and neither worked!! It's an uncommon pinout on the serial side, so chances are you will have to chop and swap some wires in that cable to make it work. The cisco cable I had didn't even have enough conductors in it. If you find a cable and it doesnt boot the dvr into the terminal window, check the baud and parity to what I posted above, but the pinout is most likely why!

The iVista software isn't what came with the cameras in the box. The software I was talking to the other guy about is the switcher software that gives you control of the switcher box. The iVista software doesn't let you control the options inside the switcher. Thanks Eric

Sorry, I forgot about this until I saw an old email. Just in case you still want this, here is the pinout diagram I made 3 or 4 years ago when I gave up on getting the switcher software. The drawing to the left is how you'd need to make the plug for the inetcam, to use the cameras for something else, or to crimp a plug on other cameras to use with the switcher. The switcher itself provides the power, so make sure you are using 12vdc cameras if you want to power from it. If they are a different voltage, just split those wires off at the switcher and add your power there. Also, there are 2 voltages, 12vdc for the camera, and a lower voltage to power the audio circuit. The diagram on the right is to the video baluns I bought awhile back, to run cameras long distance using cheap cat6 wire, they won't serve any purpose for what you're doing. If you do have that switcher software, reply and we can get in touch via email, or you can PM me I guess, I've never used the PM feature on a board so I don't know if it will email me or not. Thanks, and good luck! Eric ** EDIT: IMPORTANT!!! Go by the pin number, disregard the color! I don't put the proper color to pin when I made my cables! **

Yes, the G4-RTA series were/are made by hikvision. Their support dept (both people) were very good about getting back with me, getting technical info from the designers overseas, and digging up info from their resources there. I took this event as an opportunity to set up the remote viewing capabilities. This thing is the most amazing video server I've ever seen. Without any software on your pc you can easily pull up any previous footage, and even right click and record locally to your machine right off the interface. I don't know how it does this without a software app installed. I have 5 different models of dvrs in 10 different locations. Most of them are cheaper dvrs that generally do a great job, but I can see from this exactly why this one is worth the high price tag. It has hundreds of small features, and they all actually work as they should. Most dvrs do the basics well, but when you get into the other features that only the most technically inclined users would find, it seems like they didnt spend much time or resources getting them right. For instance, while playing back a file, i can pull just any small amount of time, even a few seconds, and save it to email it, or load just that few seconds onto a jump drive, or disc. None of the other 4 brands do anything as well as this one does. I've been buying and using these for 15yrs now, and until this one nothing could do what the computer based cards could do, but this is much better than even the high end cards. The only thing I hate is the IDE, they should have been using serial ata by 2008/2009!

Just in case someone else has to go thru this ordeal with a GEN IV G4-RTA series DVR, I am going to document the password recovery process here. I see how fast google picks up these posts, and you can try to PM me, if I still have this email I will always help you out. To recover the password there are several weird steps, and some documentation you will need. The manufacturer of this series is actually 'Hikvision', I think the site is hikvisionusa.com. I have attached 2 documents, the first is their guide to recover the password with hyperterminal, and the second is the pinout I had to figure out for the cable. Do not waste your time using the program on their site, it won't find these dvrs. The default network settings make it invisible to network display utilities, so it will not show up on this, nor your router's connected devices, it won't even show up on a IP scanning utility. Use the pinout file I made and attached, and create a cable with a serial db9 tip on one end, and a rj45 tip on the other. Find a computer that still has a serial port, connect the 2, set the baud to 11500, data bits 8 parity none stop bits 1 flow control none. restart the dvr, and hit connect. Hit enter to get the arrow prompt, type "resetPasswd". It will display a long serial number and a date. Copy these or email a screenshot to techsupport "at" hikvisionusa "dot" com with dvr password reset as the subject. The serial # has your model number in it, so all you need to send is what it displays. They have been pretty good with turnaround, but you need to enter the reset password they send you within 24 hours, because it is based on a alg using the #s you emailed them. Do not enter this password into the dvr from the face, you must repeat the process you used to get the serial #, and it asks you for the reset password. I would have had this done a week ago had I not wasted most of my time trying to access this via the network, telnet, etc. Just use the RS232! IT WONT LET ME POST ANY KIND OF DOCUMENT FILE, PM ME FOR THE 1st FILE

apparently intellicam doesn't know anything about it, even though they sold it. They gave me another company to try and contact. But the funniest part is the way to get the password: Find a computer that still has a serial port. Find or make a cable, that has a serial plug on one end, and a rj45 tip on the other. Plug the 2 together, download a terminal program. Set baud rates etc, restart dvr 3 times, each restart 30 sec after the last. The dvr then "should" send a code to the terminal screen on the computer. Email this code to the company, where they use an algorythm to get you a password. The problem I'm now having, is when you restart the dvr, the terminal program disconnects, and doesn't reconnect in time to get whatever the dvr spits out during startup.

I don't think it's amazing, these things aren't even worth $10 to me without the software that is no longer available. I have emails from people that owned the company saying they would help me out, then over time they just started saying "there's nothing I can do, and there's no way to use the switcher without the software". So I guess all it does is act as a balun by putting power video and audio on a cat5e cable. I will vpn into my home network here in a few and post or send you the diagrams I made of the camera/switcher pinouts.

I saw that user 888888 info somewhere and tried everything I could, to find it. The only 3 users available are: Admin Teller and Audit, and none of them use any of the common passwords either. It does not allow me to enter a User, only select from the list by using the up and down arrows. Thanks for the reply!

A friend took me to a local business that recently closed & was clearing out inventory and equip. They did not sell these, but I bought a PTZ camera, new in the box. It doesn't have zoom, so I guess it's PT! It was new in a plain brown box, not a name brand camera. It has a decent CCD, picture looks great, but it has a heavy, metal, controller box with buttons to move the camera: left, right, up, down, and a switch that makes it pan back and forth. There is a 24vac transformer in the box that actually sends the voltage across the wire connected to the button you press. I've installed sony and pelco domes in my business, and friend's businesses, and from my understanding it was a signal sent to the camera that was translated onboard to determine which way to move. I don't think there were separate wires for each direction, and I don't think the motor's power was sent, just a signal. The DVR has several different PTZ "languages", pelco, fastdome, etc, but I don't think any of these send power over the wire, just the signal. Ive seen rs232 - rs485 converters, is there a converter out there that can receive the ptz signal from my dvr, and convert it to giving power to the correct left, right, up, and down wires? I guess it would need to be a decoder, and I would have it kick a relay giving 24vac to the correct wire? Any help is greatly appreciated, surely someone has accomplished this! I am good with electronics, so even if you had to build something, I would be able to follow you. You wouldnt just be wasting your time! Thanks " title="Applause" />

If you are still looking to attempt using the inetcam switcher, let me know. I have a diagram I made many years ago for that exact model. I also have some of the rj45 cameras if you need them. To answer 1 of your questions: If you power the switcher, you will not need to power the cameras run from it, the switcher sends power to the cameras over the rj45. When this company went under several years back, I found 5 of these vs-800 switcher setups that came with 2 cameras each, at fry's for 10$ per set, in unopened boxes. I have used some of the cameras, but the switchers are not of much use because the software needed to operate them, and broadcast them to the internet, was given to you by a server on their old site when you entered the serial # from the bottom of the switcher box. I have dissected a few of these, re-flashed the chips to do other things, and used them for different things they weren't intended to do, so if you are still interested in using it somehow, reply. There is absolutely no info out there about these, and the new company that sells iVista wants to forget they ever had anything to do with those! I have extra cameras too.

Hello everyone, my name is Eric, and I've been reading this forum forever. I used to post answers/advice to questions, but it has been awhile and I don't have my old acct info. Anyway, with the facial recognition: There are several open source projects out there, some are pretty good. There are also cracked versions of expensive licensed software that people have changed to suit their own needs. I am a software developer, and I attend the nerd/hacker conventions sometimes. I have seen many setups, from kids, college students, and hobbyists that work great. I hired an intern last year that showed me a program he said was widely available. He had made some changes to it, but the code that did the facial recognition was as he found it. The key to using it is the database of images it has to compare against. He made this particular program check against his college directory. It would do a 20 point check (I think?) where it sized the face (face had to be within 45 degrees of facing camera), then it put dots on the eyes, then dots around the head, on the nose, sides of the mouth, etc. It then drew lines between the dots, and I guess the length of those lines were entered into an equation that created the stored values. There were 3 ways the program could be used: It could be used on that computer in his room (from the web cam hidden in the hallway) to automatically log who passes by; It could be used remotely (he could open an image file and have the program scan the existing image), or it could be used to specifically scan the video stills, looking for certain people. An infinite number of scripts can be written, to log certain people and count/document each time they pass, notify by email/txt when a flagged person is observed, even upload a flagged person's image to facebook, or send a twitter msg saying this person was observed there at that time and date. The difficult part of the code is out there, and there are plenty of people using it to make their own little applications. Now that the motion sensing video applications are common, it's easy to use that to get a good snapshot. All it takes is a video input card for your pc, and you could run an output from your dvr to it. From what i've seen, it's easier to do it that way than using a pc with an internal dvr card. Find yourself a college age code geek and you could get it done pretty cheap, you just wouldnt be able to sell it because the actual facial recognition code would probably be from copyrighted software. And as I said before, the biggest problem is building or finding the database of pictures for it to compare against!

I have always used the default password, and only 2 other people had access to this unit (the other owner of our business, and 1 senior employee). The default password 12345 does not work, the co-owner doesn't know any other password, and the one other person that knew it, no longer works for us. The only logical explanation is he changed the password, and if he did this to be mean, I'm sure its the full 16 characters of random numbers. I used to read this board awhile back, and talk with people about using all the features of this DVR, and I remember seeing there was a way to reset this password, but (for good reason) it was never posted on the board. I have emailed intellicam, but have not heard back. It is very important that this DVR be functioning. Having a very nice surveillance setup stops a lot of bad things from happening in and around our office, and if it were known we could not record, or even view all of the cameras I don't want to think of what would happen. Could someone pppplllease share with me, somehow, the master password, or button combo that allows the password to be reset? You can click email on this post if you don't want the info to be posted. Just 1 costly incident could be the end of our business, and all of our hard work. Any help would be greatly appreciated. PS: also, if anyone knows a hardware way to clear the settings, I would even do that! I used to build all of our video editing machines, so I can find a jumper, or discharge a cap. I know just removing the batt doesnt work!