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[quote="dvarapala Have you tried setting your shutter speed to 1ms? At that shutter speed I get an easy 15fps at full resolution from my Arecont AV1310DN. Where do you set the shutter speed to 1 ms? Where is this setting in AV100? Thanks.

I would like to know the outcome of this too......as I am getting similar low fps with Arecont 5100 DN. Exposure set to high speed/20 for low light setting and Quality set at 15. Thanks.

Fred, If you have a spare computer with reasonable power (I5 or so) with a TB or so of HDD then research Geovision to get you started on a budget hybrid system. You would need a Geovision capture card to connect the analog cameras but the DVR/NVR is free for Geo IP cameras (up to 32 cams...I believe). You really don't need POE switches (expensive) to connect IP cams since you have already run power wires, however you do need to run cat5/cat6 wires to the cameras. Each Geo camera comes with its own power supply but you can use a central power supply box to connect many cameras to one outlet. Additionally, you would need a good Gigabit router along with one or more gigabit switch (preferred and depends on number of IP cams). I bought cat5/cat6 wires and the central power supply boxes at very reasonable prices from monoprice.com....research it. Finally, don't forget to look at back-up power for each power location. Geo IP cams come with SDHC slots to store recordings locally. However, if you want, you can look into a second remote computer for continuous back-up of recording for tertiary storage. This way you will be well prepared if the main computer "disappears" with the event Good luck with your project. Cheers.

I am using 7 IP cameras, 5 of them are Geovision 1.3 MP (various ones) and 2 are Areconts. I currently use the Geovision (free) NVR on an I7 machine. I paid for 2 licenses to use the Areconts and the Geos are free to use with their NVR. My question to you is: Is there any other software I can try with this setup to compare with the Geo NVR? I am happy with the current one but wonder if there is something better? I would prefer one that doesn't cost a lot or better, a free one. I am reasonably good with computer hardware and am willing to learn so please recommend me your best. Thanks and Cheers!

I have installed one Geovision dome VD120 along with several other Geovision and Arecont cameras. I am very happy with this 1.3 MP camera...has ~50 ft of decent night vision with 15 fps. I have been thinking of installing a CNB MIR1000 for slight improvement in the range but haven't done it yet. The daytime picture is fantastic and is on par with my other dome, Arecont 3155. I paid $369 to an authorized dealer for the Geo (comes with free NVR and a power supply) and installed it myself. I don't know if this will work for you. PM me if you need more help. Cheers.

Korgoth of Barbaria, This performance is fantastic, especially at that speed. Did you use IR? Also, do you have any experience with the entry level IQ cam, IQEYE3? Spec show very low shutter speed for MP video...is this true? Thanks.

Rory, I have an old GE analog camera (KTC-2000DN) that I will try first in B/W mode with a 70 mm lens and a long range IR. Will try fast shutter speed although the cars come to a stop/crawling speed as they try to leave my street or come on to my street from the main street (it's a trisection). Also, will try a filter to block out most of the UV. Any other recommendation? Recall, my daytime camera will the Arecont 5100DN mounted with the 50 mm Fujinon lens. I will try this too with the IR for night time by changing the exposure settings to fast (short)/fast speed. I am hoping this dual camera setup works. Otherwise, I may look for a total analog solution like your suggestion or like the ones below that i was looking at earlier: http://www.ebay.com/itm/160461996686?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 http://www.techtoolsupply.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BCN-1030 What do you think of the specs of Wonwoo BCN-1030? BTW, I couldn't find the KT&C you recommended anywhere here in US. There was one listing on ebay. Cheers

Thanks Rory. I can't tell if the headlights are on in these pictures. Basically, in my case, the picture washes out in the night with the Arecont 5100DN without an IR. I am going to try it next with your suggestion of using a low intensity IR (keep going up in intensity, if needed). If this setup doesn't work then I will use an analog camera (like you) for night time use and keep the Arecont for daytime. I picked up this Arecont camera (brand new) from Ebay for $150 and the 50 mm Fujinon lens for another $25 so I can easily afford to use two cameras for this purpose. Cheers.

I did this, took a pot to see what it took to keep it open and used that value with a little margin. I think it ended up being around 400 Ohms for the one I tried, but could be wrong on that. Connectors can be obtained from mouser, there are links if you search around the forum a bit. Thanks Mike. I was able to make this work by using your tip. Used a 1k ohm (0.75 Watts), 15 turn Cermet Potentiometer (Part #271-0342 from Radio Shack) across the drive coil of the lens and kept adjusting the resistance till the lens opened up. Excellent advice " title="Applause" /> " title="Applause" /> " title="Applause" /> I hope the lens can be used now in this configuration. Does this cause any damage long term Please let me know if there is a better way to use an auto iris lens on a manual iris camera. Thanks.

I have read here that an arecont camera can be successfully used to capture license plates at night. I would like to use the 5100dn for this purpose. The distance is about 75 feet with about 30 degree horizontal angle (can use a 50 mm or a 75 mm lens) Cars have to slow down at this point to make the turn on to the street. There is a sodium vapor street light at the intersection. What settings should i use in the camera to avoid washouts? Should i use ir? BTW....the daytime pictures are perfect! Thanks for any guidance. Cheers!

I have been reading this forum to help with my diy project for my home. I have now across an issue that i cannot find an answer with the search function. I have an arecont 5100dn camera (without AI) and a fujinon MP dc auto iris lens. How do i use this lens with the camera? Is there a way to open the iris (like by applying dc voltage to pins x and y) and keep it open to use it with the non AI arecont? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I need a MP lens with a low F-stop. Fujinon has this lens (YV2.8x2.8SA-SA2) which meets my needs but I cannot determine from reading on-line, if this lens is IR-corrected. Is this lens IR corrected? Has anyone used this lens? What is the performance of this lens in day-time and night, with and without an IR illuminator. What is the best lens in your opinion for good low light performance. I would like a vari-focal lens with about 8 mm at the top-end. I intend to use it with a Geovision BX120D. Thanks.

I am looking for a reasonably priced (preferably under $50) dome enclosure for a geovision BX120D box camera. The camera measures well under 6" with the lens (about 5.6"), width is slightly less than 3" and the height is slightly more than 2". The camera will be mounted outside, however will be well away from water/rain. Prefer a surface ceiling mount but would consider an in-ceiling. The second housing I am looking for is to mount an Arecont 5100-DN with MPL4-12 lens. The length is just over 4" (would like 5" to clear the cable connection), width is about 3" and the height is about 2.5" This one will also be mounted outside under a soffit bit could see water from rain. Again, prefer a surface ceiling mount. Thanks.

Thanks Soundy. You are Da Man! I had made it work by splitting the ground (vdc) and the braided wire separately to their respective plugs. However, do you think I should connect these together as originally intended. More I looked at the plate, I got convinced that the negative for the vdc and the braided shield were connected together under the "bulged plastic sheath". You comments cemented my belief. I really liked the "noise free" picture during the day and especially in night with IR. I would like to return it to its original state, if possible. Please advice. Cheers.

I was trying to move the CNB WCM-20VF bullet camera to another location, when I pullet too hard on the "bulged rubber connector" closer to the power and BNC leads. The male power lead (red) and the bnc connector (yellow) stick out of this "bulged rubber connector". I split open the rubber connector and found a small connection plate inside an insulated piece. This plate has only three connection points. The red power connector lead connects to one side of the plate and the yellow BNC connector connects to the other side. However, there is only one other connection point left, which is in the middle and I have a negative for the power and the braided shield of bnc still left to connect? Do the power negative and the braided shield connect together to one side of the plate and then from other side, these split out to connect to their respective plugs? I am wondering if the braided wire for the BNC and the DC negative connected to prevent some of ground loop interference. Please help if someone else has come across this? I feel bad as this camera was working out great, especially in the night with the intelligent IR. Thanks so much.