ssnapier

You should be able to do TCP and UDP on the same port. As for your hardware, have you checked portforward.com to see if that model is listed with instructions? Are you familiar with the concept of how this all works or do you need to start from square one?

To address the UPS question, you need to determine how long you think it will need to run on batteries. I typically use a 1500VA UPS unit for most PC systems and that will give you between 12 and 20 minutes depending on the total load. Units in that size range typically cost between $150-$225 depending on brand and options. If you get larger than that the prices start to go up very quickly. As for the POE switch, there is no 8 port POE switch that I would trust in the under $100 range, heck I cannot even think of one that exists in that price range! I also use this one which gives you all 8 ports for POE as opposed to the Cisco I posted earlier that only gives you 4 POE ports. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122367&cm_re=Netgear_POE-_-33-122-367-_-Product

1 - CAT-5E is more than adequate 2 - I like this one, it is quite nice and reliable: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833120656 3 - The IR's have a very faint red glow to them, not a big deal. 4 - NO! How could you record if the operating system is not running? That is like asking if you can drive your car without starting it first. 5 - SAI?? What the heck is that? Did you mean a NAS? (network attached storage) If so, you need to know how many days you want to record and at what framerate/ resolution. It is also not a bad idea to know how much of it is daylight and how much is at night. Night recording tends to take a bit more space typically.

I have used 3/4" lexan, which is mighty close to bulletproof but I honestly don't recommend it unless you have excellent lighting and external IR. The camera sometimes has issues dealing with focusing unless it is RIGHT up against the glass. We ended up gluing a piece of foam to the glass and sticking the camera inside the foam to prevent all reflection.

It depends on the mount that was used for that lens. If it is a CS mount you could use something like this: http://www.hikvision.com/en/Products_show.asp?id=722

You are correct and I failed to point that out. Since 485 is balance and 232 is not that is the only way to do it without some processing power to handle the re-balancing of the signal.

I have seen specs or streaks caused by gas evacuation. The shutter has to be set pretty fast to catch it though.

Ok, just to clarify things an RJ-45 is a connector that looks like this: The cable you are referring to is probably eitehr CAT-5, CAT-5E or CAT-6. You can read the stamped writing on the cable to determine that. The easiest way to use CAT5/6 wire with an analog camera is thru a pair of baluns which have a lot of different styles to them. Some provide power and some do not, you absolutely need one that does provide power. In general they will look something like this:

The site is registered to this guy: fu.yeichi@gmail.com, maybe try asking if there is a site issue?

Dotworkz sells several housings with wipers too. http://www.dotworkz.com/

Why not go with something simple like this: 2DZnGwZllpQ

ummmm, wouldn't it be installed at the front door??

For this type of usage, did you not consider using something like Dropcam? They would suit your needs almost perfectly, but if you buy more standard professional gear, you will have the additional benefit of getting true security out of the deal and that just makes sense in my head.

I would put a PC in the head end room and use a CAT-5 VGA extender as that is the easiest way to accomplish this. As long as you don't extend keyboard or mouse controls they have no PC access. You could even set it up to do automatic reboots at 3 am every few days to minimize the weirdness that comes from running a windows box for long periods of time. Since this is a hybrid DVR you could maybe use a quad-viewer or multiplexer (with the VGA extender off of the video output) to both meet this goal or accommodate adding extra cameras to that monitor in the future, but if they are on a pure IP migration path I would not bother with this option.

Yes, most DVR's have a DDNS option in the networking section. Some of them even offer a free DDNS service when you purchase the DVR.

IP vs. Analog is more of a discussion of resolution, the concrete and rebar don't really care about your wires and interference of this sort doesn't work that way. I personally think you made the right call, the IP stuff is only one wire to the camera and you should have MUCH more usable picture from those cameras. Let us know how it goes once you get them running... some screen shots are always good!

Yup, this is by far the cheapest (and most functional) option.

It depends on the use case, I would not want to recommend a camera without knowing what you want to see, from how far away, and at what height do you plan to mount them?

Honestly, in your situation I would take a very hard look at Foscam stuff. With a decent sized SD card you can get two weeks of recording per camera without trying hard. Just make sure you buy class 10 SD cards!

I would start by checking the supported cameras list for that QNAP unit. These are decent systems, but make sure you are only looking at cameras that they support. http://www.qnapsecurity.com/pro_compatibility_IntegratedCamera.asp Also, wifi cameras are a bunch of garbage most of the time. You will be far better off using standard wired (POE powered) cameras.

You could also use something like this to extend a cable to the nearest TV or monitor rather than move the DVR every time you need to view something. http://www.startech.com/AV/Extenders/VGA/Converge-AV-VGA-and-Audio-over-Cat5-UTP-Extender~ST122UTPA

This has nothing at all to do with commissions, I recommended a professional in your area that knows what he is doing. If you choose to go a different route that is fine by me. You have three very smart people in this discussion telling you that there will be major problems using that equipment on a large scale, but since you clearly know better than any of us... good luck.

FTP is a foil shielding in the cable jacket, SFTP is where each pair is shielded individually. Honestly you don't need either of those unless you are going to be running these wires extremely close to power lines. I would just get UTP and call it a day. UTP = unshielded twisted pair. The other considerations would be if you have long portions of the run that will be vertical (more than 50 feet), you may want to consider riser rated (CMR) wire, actually most stuff is CMR rated, but if you see CM rated that is the lowest level. I would also make sure you get solid wire not stranded. Stranded wire is only really used for short patch cords where a lot of flexibility is required and it is a bit of a pain to terminate compared to solid wire.