ssnapier

I think what is being said here is that there is really no one size fits all for this, which is why no one does it that way unless they are signing you up for some monthly monitoring plan that will help you recoup some of that down the road.... even then, not everything is included.

Mmmm, tasty. Correction... I always get those names screwed up... the C-150 is their PTZ head, I think the camera ia actually a Fujinon, but it is freaking HUGE! It has something like a 1500mm lens on it.

My first thought is how you plan to make the camera understand the encryption and how you decrypt thru your viewing software.... that sounds tricky to me.

That is either a FLIR HDC (with some "custom" stuff done to it) or an R-Vision C150... they are both quite common in that type of arena.

I second this and Fluidmesh is excellent stuff! You could also look at Ruckus, Aruba networks and possibly something like Meraki (Cisco) or Belair.

I think you need to start with what you think the average length of each run will be an how many hours you figure those would take you to accomplish. You then have to figure out how much money it will take to pay the bills and build enough capital to maintain stock, keep gas in the truck, and pay your insurance.... etc. On top of that you need to account for the time involved on the book keeping side, licensing, and any training or networking or advertising that will be done. This is pretty generalized, but hopefully it puts you on a path that makes sense.

You could actually run 16 gauge wire to account for the voltage drop over that distance. I have done that in cases where it was a longer than normal and it works great. At 310 feet you can still get .3 amps and have 11.2 volts. Since most 12 volts cameras will actually run at 10% above or below the stated range, you can go down to 10.8 volts and you are still good to go. Based on this you can skip the Ac to DC conversion entirely and just use larger wire to solve the problem. If you are running this wire outside PLEASE put it in PVC conduit and bury that conduit at least 8 inches deep (check your area for whatever the frost line is and go below that). You will save yourself tons of trouble by doing it right.

It is seeing that little dark spot as enough of a contrast difference that it changed the text to make it easier to read.

If you cameras require POE, that particular device will not work. You would need something more like this:

It could be a diode, but typically "S" stands for switch on a board.

Google is your friend, I typed in Milestone Essential Hardware Spec and found this (skip to page 7): http://www.milestonesys.com/Sharepoint/XProtectEssential/XProtect%20Essential%202_1/SpecSheet/Milestone_XProtect_Essential_21_Specification_Sheet.pdf

Three big questions... 1. What is your budget for this project? 2. Are you planning to do the majority of the install yourself? 3. Are you at all familiar with networking principles?

IP cameras are certainly an option, but you could also look at HD-SDI if you are happy with your current locations. It will save you install time since you have the cable in place. In either situation, it would be very easy to network all of this together so you can see any store from anywhere... even you house. Are you planning to do all of this work yourself of hire a company? Where are you located?

I was going to bid, but you are not shipping to the USA.

If you are running a box outside the house anyway, why not just run a standard 120 VAC GFCI outlet to that box? It would give you a ton more options from that point even stuff beyond CCTV.

Yeah, you should be able to push 12VDC 70 feet on 16/2 without any issue. Simple is better!

Can you ping the IP address itself? It could be that your ISP's DNS cache does not have your DDNS provider included so the DNS lookup is failing. You should be able to see that if you ping the IP address and then ping the DDNS provider's domain. Also, how are you testing the outside the network stuff? I typically tether to my cell phone and do it that way, easier than going down the street to Starbucks.

I think you have a decent idea going there, but I would also look at something like Exacq (https://exacq.com/index.php). You could also look at maybe using Axis, Indigovision or Avigilon encoders to prep for an eventual IP transition but I have no idea what your budget is.

Did you verify that the port you chose was not one of the many ports reserved for dedicated use? Some of those are blocked by ISP's for various reasons.

Hik makes good stuff and for the price the only other thing I can think of that would compete is Dahua, but Hik is WAY easier to get your hands on and far more prevalent. Honestly, I would just stick with what you have.

Have you verified that the time server is working prroperly? That is anon-standard NTP port, so I wonder if it is just not working. I would try 1.pool.ntp.org and see if that changes it.

You do not need baluns, you should have CAT-5 or CAT-6 connected from the camera to the NVR. You are correct that all control signals will be on the CAT-5. The power cable is obviously just power, but it also runs the heaters and fans. That is a decent camera, good luck!

As a guy who does a lot of wireless stuff, that sounds like a bad place to make it work right. Trucks getting in the way, and dealing with plant equipment makes it tricky. They also have the added cost of dealing with power issues, so I am betting that at the end of the day you could be competitive as long as your installers work efficiently. You might consider trying to give them a break on labor up front and sell them on monitoring or an annual service contract to recoup it on the back end. If you need help writing that service contract let me know.

Ok, that makes sense now.... not what the ISP's are doing (boneheads) but I see your issue. My recommendation would be to use a service like logmein.com or something that will give you remote access to just your stuff.

Not true, it just takes more work to do port forwarding. I have 2 routers at my office and you just have to forward the ports from the public facing router to the internal router and then forward from the internal router to the DVR or whatever you are using (IP camera, home server, slingbox, whatever).