ssnapier

It should not be an issue at all, in fact you might even be able to power the camera with a solar panel and a small battery if you wanted to. Then all you need is the video cable back to your DVR. Of curse if you are going to dig a trench, it would be just as easy to run siamese cable and provide power from the same power supply driving the other two cameras.

Please do a search, this has been asked and answered at least 10 times in the last 6 months. I know I drew pictures for one guy prety recently too.

Yeah I failed to mention the distance limit... thanks for adding that.

CAT-5/6 just gives you more options. You can migrate to IP cameras down the road far easier with CAT-5/6 already in place. The only time I use coax now for analog systems in on extremely long runs.

It is possible that the 24v version is slightly cheaper too.

There is no performance advantage, but one requires an extra piece of hardware and one just requires some wire.... if you are doing more than one and can power them all from one power unit, it is really a toss up.

Simple like a typo? It should be S M T P Your incoming (POP3) port should be 995 (with SSL) and your SMTP should be 587 or 465 (with SSL)

It looks to me like that particular light is a dual voltage light meant to run on standard grid voltage. The only real difference is that the 24VAC lights would require a power supply to provide that voltage, while this model would simply be plugged or tied in to an existing circuit with no other hardware.

THe kbd300a he referred to in his original post is a PTZ controller.

Ok, can you perhaps rephrase your scenario then?

The DVR probably has a virtual PTZ control option like this:

Make sure you are including the HTTP port number in your address. If you IPCHicken address is 24.97.75.223 and you port if 567 then the address should look like this: 29.97.75.223:567

There are a TON of excellent videos on setting up a Geovision system on youtube and the Geovision website. Just use Google or the youtube search function and go nuts!

I would suggest getting away from the Blackberry phone. Development for those phones stopped quite some time ago, and you will have a much easier time dealing with either an Android or iOS (Apple) device. My personal preference is Android, but most developers launch their iOS versions first because for a variety of reasons I won't get into here.

This can cause problems unless you setup a proper multicast environment. My 2nd router did not support a bridge mode, which is why I went this way. I also had to dummy proof it for other people in the office and this was the easiest way.

Yeah I was not saying you were unreasonable at all, in fact we just quoted a job where it was a door station with two master stations and I think it was about $2850, but it was for a Federal Agency so no tax. If you add in the 6% Maryland sales tax, it would have been a bit over $3000. That did not include a door strike by the way.

One last thing... make sure that DHCP is DISABLED on the Comcast gateway!

I actually use a Cisco router, but here is what my setup looks like there. You will need to make sure and add the DNS entries here or it won't work for some reason. I also noticed that when I added the third DNS for Google, things got just a bit more responsive.

I have the nearly the same setup at my office, you have to do port forwarding twice actually. I will just make a drawing of the way mine is setup so you can get your head around it. The Comcast gateway is generally setup on the 10.1.10.xxx network and the Netgear is setup in the 192.168.x.x network. The Netgear router will actually have a WAN IP of 10.1.10.XXX to put it on the same subnet as the Comcast gateway. I have three different things in my office that need remote access, that is why you see three entries forwarding to 10.1.10.2. Here is a drawing and a screen shot of my actual gateway:

That is not terribly out of line actually. I figured about the same money for labor, but I had the parts a bit cheaper. I actually PM'd some of these details to the OP. I did not include cabling or power supplies in my pricing however and I recommended the JO kit since it is a nicer look in the residential setting. The taxes and licensing is the only thing I did not factor in simply because I don't quote individual jobs that way, it is just included in my overall price.

Ok, this is really just for my own clarification but why so much for taxes and insurance on what is almost certainly a one day job? We don't have licensing requirements out here in MD but that figure just trips a red flag for me. Feel free to PM if you don't want to discuss these types of things publicly.

The firmware should be downloadable from the manufacturer. If not, try to call them and ask if they have an FTP you can get it from or maybe they can just email it to you.

That is really odd! Does the mouse have power? Also, I am guessing a reboot did nothing to help matters? I would pop the case off and see if there is just something unplugged before sending it back.

Where are you located?

Well, I would personally choose the JO series for that type of use. Check your PM's for some more info.