ssnapier

Look at both your FTP logs and your DVR logs to see what failed.

You could get IR lights or you could just mount some regular white light which will be beneficial in two or three ways. 1. It helps the camera see better 2. It is a deterrent to bad guys and general dumbasses 3. If mounted near the camera it can mask the fact that there is a camera watching them at all, which may prevent the camera from being whacked with a bat or yanked from the wall. As for the hot spot, that is how 99.9% of those cameras with built in IR work. They do not spread the light beam, but rather focus on the center of the viewing area because that is generally the location of the "important" thing in the image. It is also far cheaper from a manufacturing perspective to use clear glass rather than a diffuser or LED's pointed at various angles to increase coverage. For a situation where you absolutely must have even light to give you the entire scene evenly then you have the same options as outside, but you need to be mindful to mount those light sources outside of the image or they will have the opposite effect from what you are seeking.

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The problem is that most NVR's / DVR's require a plug in of some sort to give you all of the functionality and Smart TV's simply cannot handle that. Your best option is to just attach a small laptop to each TV and let the laptop do the work with the TV essentially being a giant monitor. You could do it with one laptop and an HDMI splitter too. If you went that route you can extend the HDMI using CAT-6 and go quite a distance. Why LAPTOP ? put Android TV Box with each TV and u done (network connections need it ) Are you proposing the use of an Android app to view the cameras? That could work, and would certainly be cheaper way to do it assuming you had a compatible app. I only suggested a laptop because it gives you direct access to the NVR and gives you all of the functionality of the NVR if you needed to make changes, search for video, or maybe move a PTZ. Sometimes an app will limit those things.

The problem is that most NVR's / DVR's require a plug in of some sort to give you all of the functionality and Smart TV's simply cannot handle that. Your best option is to just attach a small laptop to each TV and let the laptop do the work with the TV essentially being a giant monitor. You could do it with one laptop and an HDMI splitter too. If you went that route you can extend the HDMI using CAT-6 and go quite a distance.

Is the intercom system amplifying the video signal for you? If so, this is pretty easy, if not you will need to do a fair bit of planning to make that work properly.

Yup, that will work just fine.

The biggest problem is signal degradation as you split the signal. The right way to do this would be with 2 or 3 amplifiers and then using attenuators at the screen closest to the amp so you don't overdrive them. I am guessing you don't have the tools to measure you video signal properly do you? To be a nice clear signal, it needs to be very close to 1 volt peak to peak at a signal strength of at least -75, but that is a tricky thing to measure without the right tools. The more you split a signal the faster it degrades.

That is a very interesting idea!

You can get a 700tvl replacement camera for $85 and have IR and a much more sensitive iris adjustment. I would replace it. You can get even cheaper cameras if you want to reduce the features.

The only way you could run the cables like that is with several distribution amplifiers. How many apartments are we talking about here? Are you installing monitors in all these locations too?

Any chance you can post videos of what the camera does vs. what it does inside NUUO?

This should solve your issue: http://www.zeevee.com/ There are a few of these on the market, just search for HDTV modulators

In the supported camera list it has this note for your camera: On-edge motion: turn off the "enable extended on motion detection" function on camera web. I am guessing they mean on the camera's web interface. Good luck! I have used a few NUUO things in the past, and they were a bit funky at first, but once you get them sorted they are quite reliable. I would also make sure you have the most current firmware on that camera.

I know Pelco makes an IP PTZ that would easily work with Endura, as for the thermal were you looking for a fixed thermal or a PTZ? Also need to know the range (distance from camera to target) at which you want that thermal to be effective.

If this is just for viewing on the local network, each one will have it's own IP and that should be enough. If this is for remote viewing, change the ports on one of them (you may have HTTP, Server, Mobile, and Admin ports) and then open those ports on your router and forward them to the IP of that router. If you need help with port forwarding, visit http://www.portforward.com and look for your router model # there for instructions. If you just want to learn about what it is you are doing with all of this, watch this video: UZCVq60EPkE

That switch is a good one and it is VERY popular. As for the cable, just go with CAT-5E. The choice of Acti is a decent option, and my only concern is your budget. I am just running rough numbers in my head, but I am thinking you might be a camera or two short at $1500. Send me a private message, because I have another idea that might be able to do exactly what you want and it will fit your budget too.

It looks to me like the sealing ring is super compressed. You could try your local auto parts store and see if they have an O-ring big enough to do the job. Actually even better than an auto parts store is a place that rebuild hydraulic cylinders or hoses. They have all kinds of crazy stuff at those places, and every one I have ever been too is happy to help out, especially with something that they don't see that often. Take the case parts with you to the shop and let them fiddle with it for a few minutes, you might stumble onto an excellent solution. If not, grab some gasket maker from the auto parts shop and go to town on it.

Get the ones you posted, then just get an F type to BNC adapter for both ends.

I buy from LTS in Maryland, the shop is about 90 minutes from me. Scarlett has been a great sales person and has taken care of everything I needed so far, and Luke is one cool dude.

There should be no issue with it as long as the total cable length isn't crazy. Since this is a residence I am guessing your cable length is well under 30 meters, so I would not be concerned at all. Just make sure that you seal the crap out of that connection outside the window. Go buy some quality splice tape or mastic and leave no doubt about it's ability to keep water out. Wrap it once or twice with standard electrical tape and then follow that with the good stuff and go well beyond where your electrical tape stopped. Once you think you are good, give it one more wrap to be certain.

What frame rate will you record at? Will you include audio? How much action do you anticipate in these scenes? How much of the time will be in darkness? Do you have any bandwidth limitations? Just a very basic calculation without knowing any of these answers means you will need roughly 15TB of recording space to hold 15 days of continuous video with audio. That means you will need a NAS or a rather healthy DVR. I can recommend a few, but I am betting I will be way higher than your budget. What do you plan to spend on this?

There is am American company called Axton that makes some excellent stuff. There is also a Russian company called MicroLight that makes plenty of stuff in the range you are seeking. Either one will come with a great warranty and will be a product that does what it is advertised to do. As for the PIR, I have no better advice than what has already been given. You could also possibly setup a motion tripwire tied to a siren and or a white light (spot light on the driveway?) as a deterrent too. I would rather scare a guy off then catch him in the act to be honest, but having both options ready to rock will ensure that if he does go ahead with the bad guy stuff he is at least recorded doing it.

It is not the cheapest option, but a Mobotix S14 or S15 would be semi-covert and wold give you excellent day and night images.