ssnapier

That should be pretty simple... all you need is to configure an HTTP port on the DVR, forward that port thru your router (all at the remote site) and then use a dynamic DNS service to give you an easy way to access it. Use this site to help you with the port forwarding: http://www.portforward.com just find your model of router and it will walk you thru the process. As for the DDNS service, I am fairly certain that SWANN runs their own DDNS and it should be free for you. http://www.swann.com/s/techcenter/DDNS

Ok, look at page 48 on that first link, they call it "copying" the video. Hopefully this helps you get it sorted out.

FYI - check page 66 on that second link.

I don't use Panasonic DVR's, but that is a pretty simple function that should be pretty self explanatory just by using the menus in the unit itself. It may be called Export, backup, evidence, or save... it depends on how they did it. This is the operator's manual for that unit: ftp://ftp.panasonic.com/Pub/panasonic/cctv/OperatingInstructions/WJ-HD309-316-operating-instructions.pdf ftp://ftp.panasonic.com/pub/panasonic/business/security/operatinginstructions/WJ-HD309A_316A_network_oi.pdf <--- for use over the network

Why are you not using the export feature on the DVR?

That is probably to provide a loophole for homeowners to install their own stuff.

Unless that system has some sort of local failover recording capability I would not trust it. The point here is to have reliable video evidence of a bad guy, right? Well if the bad guy cuts your connection and all you get is an alert, that is not getting you anything useful. Unless you are planning on alarming and putting cameras on your cable coming into the building, it is 100% pointless.

I have two pro accounts and they are both working perfectly.

Ok, here is the BIG problem with cloud based security. Any bonehead can clip your cable and phone lines to instantly kill your stream to the recording service. That means that the actual crime will not be recorded. If you buy a proper lock box and install someplace even a little bit difficult, your recordings will be good to go. As for unreliable hardware.... these cloud sales guys have you all screwed up. I have worked with DVR's from the pit of the low end all the way up to crazy high level Gov't security gear and the DVR's themselves almost never fail unless they are placed someplace really stupid (too hot or cold, lack of ventilation, etc.) so trust me when i say that reliability is not an issue.

Your best opportunity is right when they walk thru the door, but that is awfully low grade video. There is no magic software that will clear up the grainy quality of that video though, especially in a video that has already been compressed twice (once to get it off the DVR and again when uploaded to the net). Sorry to break the bad news, but I think you have decent shots while the camera was in still in color, but improving them is all but impossible.

You don't have the ability to rotate the body inside the housing?

It happens, that is why we lean on each other! Just be darn sure it is reporting the public IP. I have seen some equipment behind a router that would only report the internal IP, which it thought was actually the public IP.

Put a router in there that has DDNS built in (which is almost all of them). Sometimes the DVR / NVR will have it built in too, but be careful with those and make sure it can truly see the public IP.

My last two companies have use Hartford Insurance, they seemed pretty solid to me.

How did you re-terminate the coax? It sounds to me like you just have a badly terminated cable (or several) and my suggestion would be to get new connectors and do it again. Most installers prefer to use the crimp on style connectors, and my personal preference is to buy the ones that have the center conductor already in place so you aren't crmiping that tiny little pin. Also make absolutely sure that you have NO shield wire.... let me say it again... NO shield wire touching the center conductor. That will cause all kinds of weirdness, and generally is one of the causes of the rolling you described. Here are two videos on how to terminate RG-59 using a BNC: This one is just for crimp on: fVtaRWiK5jo This one covers all the common stuff: VfWmwP9Hbj0

Ok, so I have these cards being used on a DAQ system with IDTECK RFK-101 readers. When I scan the card to get the HEX output from it I get 36 bits. I have figured oout two things, but I am hoping you can help me with the rest of this mess. Here is a sample of what I am dealing with: 40 01 00 00 0C 00 C3 3D 66 00 E7 9A 00 B0 00 00 I know that 13, 14, 15m and 16 are my card number, but they have to be read backwards to get it. In this case, that would be 3DC3 in hex, which equals 15811 (the number of my sample card). Everything else is unknown. Any ideas??

I had not, but that is very enlightening. Thanks.

OSD is On Screen Display, it gives you things like the camera number and description of the scene. It also includes things like date and time. If you are looking at a catalog of equipment, they may be referring to the ability to do some setup functions using OSD. This is done with a viewer at the camera and there are usually arrow keys or some way to navigate the options on the back of the camera.

Yeah we did three cards, and the card number and facility code are sorted out for sure.

It is supposed to be black and white at night, that makes it more IR sensitive. As for the bright white light, it was probably an iris/exposure adjustment after a light for shined right at it (or close).

2 questions. 1. What browser are you using on your PC? 2. Did the DVR come with a specific viewing client and have you tried loading that?

Yes they will be in the DVR usually under "video" or "live" or something like that in your configuration menu.

Are you using a client that came with the DVR or just typing in the IP address on a browser?

ummmm, I am not quite sure how to handle this since it is a very broad and incredibly vague set of questions but I will give you a starting point. There is a default address for every piece of equipment and it varies based on who made it. Some of them will have this default address listed on a sticker attached to the device itself. I would suggest starting there, and then I would see if the maker of these devices has a "finder" utility that will help you see unknown devices on your network. Sometimes this comes on a CD with the equipment and sometimes you have to get it from their website. You have not really provided enough information for anyone to give you an answer beyond that, but good luck.

I am making an assumption here, but make sure you using Internet Explorer when trying to pull it up. It is most likely going to need push an ActiveX plug-in out to your browser, so make sure you allow that. It may even do that two or three times. Be patient with those, sometimes they take a few minutes to get sorted out. After the ActiveX stuff is in place, you should be good to go. This will not work on any other browser by the way.