ssnapier

I would look thru the support documents on the Panasonic website for a conversion tool. The Panasonic Security website is a bit challenging to navigate though, so be patient!!

For 50 meters, I would just use a repeater. There are plenty of options out there, my advice is just pick a brand you like and roll with it. Just for menu simplicity, you might want to stick with whatever brand your main router is. it will just save you some confusion since the UI will be close to what you already have.

How are you planning to power this device? Hiding it in the bushes isn't so easy when it comes to power. Most trail cams require a solar panel or something to keep them running, 48 hours is a very, very long time to run on batteries!

LTS is a solid low end option for sure, I have their 16 channel DVR in my office right now. My suggestion (if you don't choose Avigilon) was going to be IndigoVision. They have a line of gear that will do exactly what you need, and the costs will be in line with Avigilon. The only real advantage I can see with Avigilon over Indigo is that they now have their own access control too (Red Cloud), so if you wanted to eventually have card access on those building and have everything to a single platform that would be the way to go.

This is probably the hard drive not being fast enough to keep up when you speed up the video, either that or the video rendering hardware in the DVR is not up to the task. I would start by replacing the hard drive with a higher quality model.

Are you looking to add cameras to your current DVR or replace the entire system?

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Plenty of IP cameras have varifocal lenses too.

Depending on the budget, I would propose a single PTZ mounted with radar tracking at the highest point you can reach in the center. Look at something like SpotterRF to see what I am talking about. It is not the cheapest solution, but compared to cabling for two cameras and the setup for two cameras, this might get closer to balancing out. On top of that, since this is critical infrastructure it is dang sure going to do what they want! Check this out: http://spotterrf.com/spottershield.html

Is the KVM powered? Distance is almost certainly the issue if you are just running an extension cable with no power boost. I typically will not extend a USB device more than 15 feet without a secondary power source.

Axis is a good choice in my opinion. Where do you live? I can sell you cameras, but if there is someone local to you in case you need support I don't want to deprive you of having that option. Actually, I think you could probably get a decent setup using Acti gear too and get the price down a bit too.

The stuff you see on CSI and NCIS is complete and total BS... does not exist! Better lighting or installing a door open sensor that sends you an alarm thru the NVR would be a good start. The suggestion of interior cameras is also an excellent one because any half decent lawyer would be able to argue that these kids did not steal anything and perhaps left their scooter on the side of your house earlier... how can you disprove it? Cameras watching the actual valuables is quite a big deal when it comes to prosecution!

I cannot stress this enough... make sure you use high quality ENTERPRISE GRADE hard drives! If you buy consumer grade hard drives, you will kill one about every 3-4 months. Spend the money up front on quality drives and save yourself some headaches.

I would suggest reaching out to all of the email addresses on this page. http://www.hyundaitel.com/partner/contact_us.asp

Easy 1.HD-SDI PTZ 2.HD-SDI to HDMI Converter u done Yup, that could work!

I do not know of a single Megapixel camera with an HDMI port, they simply don't work like that. Is this going to be used for any type of security or surveillance? Does he want it recorded? As for the zoom, I would say 20x or better. Most of the nicer ones are 32 or 37x zoom, but you are going to need to output this camera to something. Either a computer or an NVR, both of which would have the HDMI he is asking for. I am thinking that to get the type of camera you are talking about, that will ensure a very high quality image and a smooth mechanism for pan, tilt and zoom functions, you will be in the $1500 to $3000 range just for the camera.

Get a quality masonry bit and drill the hole as required. My only advice is don't force the drill bit, let the tool do the work and drill at low speed. Once the hole is drilled then just make sure you seal it up with good quality (rain proof) silicone and use the correct size feed thru bushing to keep it nice and clean. Here is a source for the bushing, but they are literally hundreds of places to buy these for half of this price or less. This bushing goes on the OUTSIDE of your house! http://www.lowes.com/pd_303051-63374-VH144R_0__?productId=3724184

Just put them all in the same group and you will be good. If they are all 192.168.5.xxx or 10.1.10.xxx they will be fine. If youhave half of them one way and half the other... that will not work. If you just want to get the router for ease of setup that is fine too, they are cheap enough. I not recommend using low-end stuff here though because cameras will make it work harder than regular network traffic.

Yup, or you could just assign static IP's to the cameras and skip the router entirely.

I would recommend contacting Q-See technical support.

The cameras are not the problem here, do you have the web interface handled? Pretty much any decent IP camera would work well. I would think that you need to find one that has the most horsepower though. You want the video to be pretty high quality, right?

Howdy folks... who here is ready for some football talk? I am a Chiefs fan so I am coming into the season with cautious optimism. I am also pissed because I left Peyton Manning on my fantasy bench... not a good start!

How much are you willing to spend on this device and how do you intend to record your images?

I would personally use N elly's stuff for that, but it depends on your budget. Costco sells a few decent options as well. The biggest problem with most of the budget packages is that the software on the DVR is kind of garbage. it works, but there is a lot of useful that you will not get. If all you want is live recording and playback with semi-decent motion detection (it won't be very good at filtering things like tress or shaky cameras) then go for it. I also would not plan on have more than 14-20 days of recorded video and you will have to output any evidence to a flash drive in most cases because it will not come with a CD or DVD burner.

The biggest differences are the gauge of the wire (cat6 is one gauge thicker) and the twist of the pairs is different because the frequency is a bit higher. The tighter twist reduces cross talk on very busy networks (and I count most IP video as busy since it is always sending traffic). I have used CAT-6 in cases where I needed to get a bit farther away than the engineering spec allows for (100 meters) because it allowed me to carry the POE voltage a little better. I do not recommend that for most installs, but this was a special case and a one time exception that was approved by the customer first.