shockwave199

We us an OE3-E480 openeye dvr at work. I didn't choose them, the long gone installer did. The first one died after a couple months. The replacement has been doing well and support was okay to get it done. They do update firmware for their products and software. But having used the E480, their top of the line 16 channel, I think it's way overpriced for a unit that can't do D1 30 fps on all channels- WAY overpriced. I wouldn't be compelled to buy openeye myself, that's for sure. As far as MP cameras, it seems to me that relying on IR in the camera is a lateral move from analog and I would never go through the expense and change out of a whole system to end up with that. My IR cameras attract spiders. I'll be damned if I get even better resolution of that. I would ONLY buy non IR domes and provide sufficient exterior light, or if I had to, get IR sensitive domes and provide separate IR fixtures. Unless you're in an area where spiders aren't a consideration [is there such an area], IR MP cameras are a silly consideration if you have the problem with analog IR cameras.

Why has it crossed your mind to take it back? Over a months time, are there things not doing so well with anything? What's the worst part about this system? What's the best part?

They have, relatively speaking, a handful a things they carry. Unless the floodgates open if you register. When I saw the *fields to register, you had to give your home address too. Now maybe I'm being pissy or just not in a the mood, but my name, my email, phone number, and my home address to see some price tags on about 25 or so pieces of product? Nah, there's plenty more sites that have great support and prices without busting mt nuts to give out that info. I'll be happy to give that info if I make a purchase, but not just to see some prices. Uh, I'd be shopping elsewhere.

Why would a site make you register with all your personal info just to browse their products. Sorry, but that's weird.

I'm guessing there is no OSM in the camera so things can't be tweaked? Is the street the only source of light in the picture? Perhaps adding your own exterior light will change the balance of things in the cameras favor. Other than that, maybe it's time for a camera upgrade with on screen menus to adjust your night settings optimally.

I use their analog cameras too and it really is some great prices. I'm hoping someone checks out some of their MP offerings too. I certainly would but I'm not changing my analog system yet. Don't mean to blatantly plug gadspot but they are another good source.

Well, I don't know if it's lacking in a dahua NVR or camera. I guess I'll have to start reading manuals.

If you have the problem again, I would try enabling static IP and leaving upnp off. I can't say for sure but it's likely upnp is the culprit, as opposed the static setting. But best of luck and I hope your troubles are behind you!

Yes it could help and certainly will for the live footage on the monitor. However you need not buy anything higher than 600TVL. What a 600 will give you more so than an increase in TVL is most likely a better chip. Look for an effio or Super HADll and just that better pickup device could help. I say 'could' because you then have to factor in the DVR and most likely the compression for the recorded footage is terrible and will null the results of even a better camera. Cheap sets are cheap for a reason. Everything is low quality, from the cameras to the cable to the DVR. If all you want to do is look at live shots on the monitor, that's fine- that's the best picture you'll get. But if you're relying on recorded footage, that's where you start to see the results of low quality gear. So if you want, try one 600tvl camera and if you're smart you'll get a varifocal to help you get a good field of view. See if it helps. If not, return it or sell it.

The screen shots are pictures of the monitor. What does backup footage and picture captures from backup footage look like? Night time backup footage too- arguably the most important time of day to strive for decent images. This is good to do while deciding on placement. Also consider getting good bnc cable and putting your own connectors on- white color cable. If you must use the cheap stuff, look for white color. You have some nice woodwork on the house- shame to run black wire all over it and it's just the thing to make the Mrs say 'I told you so'. Either that or paint the black wire white. You've been 'going' IP MP for a while. Anything new on that front?

And yet, since cable has gone digital I've never had so many glitches and crap happen on a constant basis. The biggest one being incredibly slow channel changing due to conversion. Digital cable boxes are nowhere near ready for prime time and any honest cable tech that visits your house to fix something will tell you that- especially cablevision in my area. And in the audio recording world too, which is almost all digital because it was just THE greatest thing for amazing resolution and reproduction, all anyone wants to do is make everything sound like analog again- from plugins that add analog 'warmth', to mixing outside the box on a real console to analog tape. No matter where digital has taken over, there will always be an analog purest that favors it. Amazing. Analog cctv is easy, no muss no fuss, and straight forward. Sometimes simplicity rules too. And considering an analog camera well positioned with a proper field of view at a choke point will positively ID someone almost every time, it's still a viable solution. Case and point, my front door analog cam yesterday morning. Woke me up- annoying. And this was one TALL Jehovah witness!

I watched my employer hire an install for seven analog cameras, a dvr, and a power supply. Nothing but trouble and it cost about 17k. Cameras were never aimed right, nor were the proper fov's. Cameras were set with DNR so high that at night, even though the picture was wonderful at night, moving people and cars were nothing but a blur. Coax left exposed. After some snow the plow guy actually plowed up and ripped the trenched conduit down by the warehouse. The dvr was set on lowest settings and left to record full time. Even something as simple as the monitor resolution and centering was off, which in turn cutoff edges. They came back a couple times along the way to fix cameras that went out, but disappeared after a while. I ended up fixing and tweaking everything. Be more than careful who you hire- be obsessive.

You're in the position of being severely limited by budget. The plain simple truth is that at a certain point something actually isn't better than nothing. If you're having actual trouble at home and you really need to ID someone, what you're installing is like having nothing. It's not worth the trouble. The nice way of putting it is that the best you can hope for is situational awareness. You'll be aware of a situation unfolding but your surveillance recordings will do nothing to help you. You've made the mistake countless droves of people do, including me at first, and installing it anyway. Useable surveillance does NOT come cheap and is certainly not limited to 200 dollars. But like most, you'll do it anyway. One thing you can never say is...you haven't been told. Go do what you're gonna do.

That's enough light from the windows to keep it in day mode, imo.

Yes. You'd use quality baluns for video and power. One twisted pair for video and typically, the rest of the pairs twisted together for Pos/Neg power. You can find little power adapter heads that you screw the twisted pairs for power into as well, if you need power barrels to work with your cameras that have them, I'm sure.

The front facade of your house is actually similar to mine, although distances to the road will probably differ. This vid I did is a little insight to see different fields of view. I also have a number of other vids too and you'll probably get an idea that our houses are similar in layout and you can get an idea of what you'd get with a similar install- an install that isn't perfect, but good for an idea. All of my wide shots- sides and back of house are 3.6mm lenses. Good for overview, but only maybe recognition- not ID. MHOQjex_5vo

I use an openeye dvr at work. Good product. They actively support it with firmware updates. That's about all I know. I'm surprised they'd be behind anything that wasn't labeled onpeneye.

Reflection and camera flash glare? Maybe he's got a red eye thing flashing when he take a pic.

How does it do with a person in motion in the shot at night? A short vid clip of that would be nice. Light finder doesn't cause ghosting? And it does seem a bit wide or a high mount. You should confirm you get a decent mug shot at the car with that FOV, if you haven't yet. Looks great, but hopefully not at the expense of movement ghosting.

As I said, some pics of the situation- 180 watt motion fixture- New fixture- Every spot is different and so yours will be too. This may not work out for you overall, but it's something to consider anyway. Good luck.

Well there you have it- non TDN cameras. So, you'll now begin the quest for better, TDN cameras.

I don't get the scope of the purpose. People go in the gazebo and manually work a ptz? Or see it doing a constant preset tour? How does DSL figure into monitoring locally? And isn't gawking at beach goers kinda on the voyeuristic side? I wouldn't be hanging on that beach if I knew I could be gawked at, personally. At your budget, cheap crap analog ptz. If you can get a half dozen people to pony up 100 bucks each, you'll get a decent analog ptz. Get ten people to do the same and you'll get a very decent analog ptz.

Do all the cameras have the problem or just one? You most likely have cameras that are not TDN cameras, as has been described above. But if it's just one camera and the others are fine, you have a defective camera.

Wire the PIR to any alarm in/alarm in ground. Then in the dvr menu settings, make the triggering of that alarm channel start a recording sequence of the camera channel you want. That will help reduce false triggers. As far as light is concerned, this is a typical problem. It may not be solvable. At the same wattage bulb, you can look for different types as there are concentrated type head light beam and wash type bulbs. The wash type may help, but it's doubtful. You can try less wattage bulbs as well and that can help. I had the same problem at work, with a camera installed right by a double motion light fixture blasting 180 watts of light when it came on. Impossible for the camera to overcome that- a decent digital watchdog camera. What I did was to change out the fixture for a nice looking enclosed light fixture- http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202193052?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=exterior+wall+light&storeId=10051&superSkuId=202573675&N=25ecodZ5yc1v&R=202193052#.UUYTd7Nnrv0 This fixture takes an eco bulb which saves a ton of electricity. It also creates a wash of light instead of a blast of harsh light. It's also an always-on, sensing darkness and staying on until daybreak. All good things, however the fixture only puts out 60 watts of light max. That's a good deal less light than even a one bulb fixture at 90 watts of light. So, it's not gonna be a security light in general, but more of an accent light which will provide light overall, but a greatly reduced light throw. BUT, what this accomplished was the perfect balance of light for the camera to handle so faces didn't get whited out by blasting light. Now faces remain perfectly visible on the deck where all this is installed. It provides constant light for deterrent and perfect amount of light for the camera to record. I'll post some pics of the problem, and this solution so you can see it, later tonight. Perhaps it will be a consideration for you.

That should be interesting. Pay attention please- this is an unknown that would be nice to have an answer to. Your review of both systems isn't all that comprehensive unfortunately. Oh well.