Ken Layton

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Pan/tilt won't be cheap.

If you have one of those 24 volt AC power boxes with a circuit board and terminal strip, be sure to pull that circuit board/terminal strip assembly out and eyeball it good for cold solder joints. Also, if you crimped on fork terminals onto the power wires, are the crimps nice and tight?

I noticed that one camera was right next to a mercury vapor light fixture. Is that going to cause a glare into the camera at night?

Welcome aboard!

Glad it's running. Let us know how it holds up or if it still gives you any trouble.

The conduit provides a very sturdy mount for the camera.

Now I'm just a newbie in the security camera world, but this is what I have seen done locally. Several grocery stores have used 4" electrical boxes, flat box cover plates, and 3/4" conduit. The finished installation consisted of a 4" box mounted to the ceiling, cover plate with the center hole punched out for a 3/4" conduit fitting, a length of 3/4" conduit down to where the camera is desired, another 4" box, and another cover plate. The camera mounts to the cover plate and the wires are snaked through the conduit.

Take a look at page 3 of this manual: http://lorexstore.lorextechnology.com/uploads/CABLES_GUIDE_EN_R2.pdf It shows the pinout of the 6 pin DIN connectors that Lorex uses. Lorex also sells two different 6 pin DIN adapter cables: http://lorexstore.lorextechnology.com/product.aspx?id=2149 http://lorexstore.lorextechnology.com/product.aspx?id=2150

Page 3 of this manual shows the pinout of Lorex DIN connectors: http://lorexstore.lorextechnology.com/uploads/CABLES_GUIDE_EN_R2.pdf

I found the manual and the manufacturer of that old system the tavern had. It was a "Keepsafer" system made by Linear LLC. Here is a link to the manual for the 10" monitor system they had at the tavern: http://www.easyhomesecurity.com/pdf/video_observation_install_instruct_210049e.pdf

A local tavern had one of those systems. The monitor (black & white) had a 4 camera switcher built into it and everything connected with telephone cables with telephone connectors at the monitor and at the cameras. They had problem with the monitor not switching to the cameras. Basically it was "stuck" on one particular camera and would not switch. The system manufacturer wanted the monitor shipped to them for repair. The manufacturer quoted some ridiculous high price for the repair so the tavern decided not to fix the monitor and replaced the whole system. The last time I stopped by that tavern about three months ago, I noticed they had replaced everything with an 8 camera color Swann system they bought at Costco.

That manual looks like a camera that a place like Super Circuits might sell.

Twisted pair? Looks more like a May pole.

I think there's someone on ebay who makes compact flash card adapter kits to use on those old laserdisk video games.

Putting LED's in electromechanical machines looks so wrong! IMO I would not add in any additional images of famous players to the playfield. It would definitely detract from the value of it, plus it would look so out of place. Sure it's ok to doctor up the playfield where the paint and original graphics are worn and then clear coat it. That is a good improvement that adds value to the machine.

I would think the most common fault would be blown electrolytic capacitors.

I have been a coin op game technician for over 35 years now. I started out working on electromechanical arcade games and pinball machines. If you google my name and "Monitor repair guides" you can see some of the arcade game monitor repair guides I have written over the years. Recently, I have started documenting how to install LED's on Gottlieb System 80 pinball circuit boards for diagnostics. Look for me at these forums: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/

How about inserting a graphic equalizer into the audio chain to filter out engine noises?

I've got these: 6 D cell Maglite 3 D cell Maglite 2 AA cell LED Mini-Maglite (brand new just bought it a couple of weeks ago).

Atlas Sound makes a couple of "Tilt-Out" in wall steel cabinets. They can recessed in the wall or surface mounted. Fully locked too and the cabinets have vents. Atlas part number AWR2W would work for most DVR's that have rack mount ears/kits installed. I don't have enough postings yet to put up a link, but just google and you'll see the cabinet. They were originally intended for mounting public address amplifiers out of the way by putting the amplifier in the wall, but I'm sure a DVR would work in these cabinets.

In general, BNC connectors on the cameras are vastly superior to those "telephone" style connectors.

Is it possible that the wall outlet AC voltage is high?

You could pick up a pre-packaged Swann or Q-See system from Costco. Granted these low end systems are nothing fancy, but would probably be ok for you without breaking the bank. Both of these systems can be watched on your phone if you set it up.