dolladave

Does anyone know if they make a lens adapter that will allow you to use a CS mount lens on M12 mount? I know they make a C mount to CS mount because I have one and it works pretty good. I've been playing around with swapping some lens around on my Analogue cameras. I just scored a heck of a deal on a Pelco 13VA5-40 5-50mm CS mount lens and I have a cheaper Effio-e cam with a M12 lens mount I'm wanting to put it on to play with. thanks, David

The DVR has a VGA out and a BNC out. My television doesn't have a VGA input. So the DVR goes BNC to RCA at the TV. And vga from the DVR to my computer monitor. I use the TV for general viewing but if I need specifics I just switch on the computer monitor and view on it since the quality is a lot better.

I'm using a 40 inch Samsung that's a plasma for my general viewing. Its connected via the BNC out to RCA on the TV. It works but the quality isn't the greatest. I've got a 20 inch flat screen computer monitor I use for viewing the specifics. It's quality is superb. My TV doesn't have a DVI input so I couldn't tell you the difference in quality on a 32+ screen using the proper cabling.

I don't honestly know of there is a way to check the connector or not. I just know after completing an install I was disappointed in the results and went through everything trying to resolve it. I finally bought a pack of connectors that I knew were 75ohm and put a new BNC on each end and it fixed that particular camera. I emailed the ebay seller to ask him about it and he told me that the connectors I'd purchased from him were in fact 50ohm even though the listing didn't state it. Ended up having to replace connectors on 10 different cameras. Dave

Have you verified that your cable and BNC connectors are rated for 75ohms? I bought a pack of 40 BNC compression connectors off of ebay awhile back and found out the hard way after the install was done that I had a similar issue. As it turned out, my BNC's weren't rated for 75 ohms... On a side note, are they bullet/dome cams with IRs or box cams using IR illuminators? You said it was fine and came back a couple of hours later and it was a bit blurry? Was it daylight when it was fine and darker outside when they were blurry? If so could be an issue of focus shift with the cameras not having IR corrected lenses.

I'm in Louisiana and I've got several bullets and haven't had any issues with them. We've ranged from 25 to 85 Fahrenheit this winter and I haven't had a problem. 75% of my cameras don't even have any protection from the elements except the bullet camera's housing, their just mounted on a pole or on a building. So far they've held up to severe rain and wind with no problems.

I ran into a similar situation.... I changed the lens on one of my bullet cams and then the cover/IR's wouldn't fit back on. I mounted the bullet in an enclosure and left the IR's off. I added external IR's to the housing. Option 2 is for you to use pvc or some material to go around the lens between the IR's to separate them when they face the glass.

I don't have a clue about the camera but you can take it apart and see. That's the best way to make sure your ordering the correct lens.

I haven't looked very hard but I've never personally seen Effio-P... I think you'll be just fine with the Effio-E though. It does most of what any general user asks it to do. Just remember, the Effio isn't the only thing you after... The image sensor/pickup device is important to consider also. David

You sure hit that on the head Dan and I couldn't agree more. Anyone of the ebay cameras I purchased could produce a picture capable of capturing a crook if placed correctly with adequate lighting. I wasn't intending to take a jab at you if that's how it came out, it wasn't intended that way. I was only intending to make a point of how impressed I was with a simple lens change. I tried the lens on several cameras with different chipsets and the results were all the same. My point is, I'm guessing one of the biggest differences in a great camera and a decent $75 dollar camera given all other variables are the same is in the lens. Afterall, if a good lens runs you $100 bucks on average, you can't sell a camera at $75. The one thing all the cheaper cameras I purchased had in common was they all had an un-named lens that was constructed from some form of plastic instead of glass. I love this forum and I love everyones opinions and ideas, it makes us all a little bit smarter and even helps us to not make some of the same mistakes Dave

Shockwave, One of the cameras I purchased from ebay is the exact same model as one of the cameras you listed. It's a gadspot GS4009CF and even came in the gadspot box. I gave $78.65 for it and the quality was decent but no where near the advertised claim of 650TVL; however, as soon as I put a COMPUTAR T5Z8513CS-IR lens on it, the quality improved 10 fold. I removed the IR board off of the front for the lens to fit and mounted the camera in an enclosure and the quality is absolutely awesome without an IR for it at all in seriously low lighting. I got a steal on the lens but it can be picked up for less than $100 bucks brand new. Camera and lens new would equal $178 and I'd rank it up there in performance to a name brand $500 analog camera. Not to mention the lens is IR corrected so I can use it with external IR illuminators and it's got a zoom of 8.5-40mm! I'll see if I can't do some still photos tonight of the new and old lens and upload them tomorrow.

This comes from personal experience through trial and error. I've picked up several cameras off of ebay over the last couple of weeks just toying around to see if the cameras were as good as the specs claimed them to be for the price I paid, between $75 and $100.... And none of them were. They were all bullet cams with built in IR's, I stuck with cameras that had a CS mount lens because they are readily available, however most of your bullet/cheaper cams use the M12 mount and it's more difficult to get a quality lens for those. A simple lens change and it produced astounding results that were 100 times better. I discovered that using a better lens and no IR produced better results. Your best bet is to get something with the best specs you can afford and make sure you get a good quality lens to go with it. You say they Have to be weather proof and will be mounted outside but you make no mention of the lighting they will be provided therefore making it impossible to give an educated recommendation as there are several choices. IR illuminators, built in IR and no IR at all. If money isn't an option, I would personally choose a good box camera(make sure it has a removable IR cut filter) with enclosures and select varifocal lens but make sure the lens are IR corrected. By choosing the box camera, it will allow you to choose the quality lens you want on it without getting some cheap off the shelf lens. And by getting a camera with a removable IR cut filter, it will allow you to use IR illuminators if your application requires it. David

I've never used the Zeus myself but I've heard good things about it. In your case, I would lean towards the HD is going out. It boots up and runs for a bit and the drive works but after awhile a mechanical error inside the HD occurs and it quits. Then you reboot and it works again until it overheats etc and the quits again. I've encountered issues like this on several occasions. David

Anyone here use the computar lenses? I just scored a heck of a deal on a brand new T5Z8513CS-IR lens varifocal, manual Iris 8.5-40mm. Gave $35 bucks for it brand new in the box. I know buying them retail they go for about $90.00 plus/minus a few. I picked up a pelco 13VA5-50 for really cheap the other day also and was extremely impressed with it but was unable to overcome the IR focus shift while using it on an IR camera.

When I picked up the Pelco, I knew it wasn't an IR corrected lens but I figured I'd give it a shot, it's an awesome lens and puts the stock lens that came on my cheaper cams to shame but just can't get it to focus for day and night. Hoping to try out the Computar this evening.

you could make money if you take two off and resell them ...... 1 control will control over 100 cameras. no need for 1 on each. but for anything to work your camera has to have rs485 control. some cameras will do coax control for osd That never occurred to me! I seem to have a problem over engineering everything I do and making it more complicated than it has to be.

Ahh ha! Your in luck if your referring to the Effio-e cameras with an OSD. I picked up a couple of these off of ebay to play with. I have 3 cams with the controller built in at the camera and I just tied into the controller at the camera and ran 2 additional wires from each cable inside to my monitor and tied in one of these boxes to each cam. And now I can use this little box to go through the settings sitting inside on my couch Just a suggestion and it worked for me. They come with a remote control.

That brings up an interesting/related question. I've been looking at other similar IP cams and ran across this one: http://www2.panasonic.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ModelDetail?storeId=11201&catalogId=13051&itemId=474651 It's obviously missing IR illuminators but was curious if I have dedicated IR illuminators (which I do) will this cam be able to pick them up? For whatever it's worth the IP8332 IR can be disabled which is nice (and solves the halo issue), but I may not always have the room/ability to setup a dedicated IR for each cam. I would think that Panasonic won't work with an IR illuminator. I looked at the specs sheet and I don't see anything about a removable IR cut filter. Therefore using IR light wouldn't do any good because it won't see it. David

Let me start off by saying thank you guys so much for your wonderful wealth of knowledge and information. I have truly enjoyed reading and being a part of your site. Here's a little background. I'm a pretty technical guy and I've recently gotten into CCTV have set up and installed some Analog CCTV systems and DVR's over the last couple of months for friends. I'm pretty familiar with the camera types and DVR recording etc... Never used any PTZ yet, up to this point, all I have used is good RG59 siamese cable, solid copper core etc... I've made my own cat5e cables in the past for networking but never for CCTV or used Active/Passive baluns. I am wanting to set up an IP system with a standalone NVR at my local residence because I would like to familiarize myself with the technology and how it works. It will never connect to the internet or be viewed remotely, only at home. Ideally, I would like to have a Hybrid System so that I still have the ability to hook up some Analog cameras for testing purposes and recording samples. I don't want to, and will not skimp on the NVR/DVR since that's the heart and your system will only record on something as good as what it's plugged into. EG, $1000.00 camera and $100 recorder = junk. I've browsed and looked at each of the vendor sites recommended by this forum. The problem I'm having is I don't exactly know enough about how the IP system works. If you have 4 IP cameras, can you wire them directly to the NVR and it works just like the older traditional Analog CCTV with dedicated DVR I'm used to in the past? I haven't set a budget on this project, only numbers in my head but please provide me some advice on how the IP system works and any recommendations that you may have. I will be in the market to make some purchases in the next 3 weeks and if y'all carry the items, I would be more than interested in purchasing from site partners. I just don't want to end up with Chinese Junk. Hybrid NVR/DVR- Minimum 4 channel Analog @ D1 10 FPS, and minimum 4 channel IP. +-$1000.00 2 -IP megapixel dome cams mounted in doorway. One for front door and one for back. No need for IR, as the doorways have good lighting. Don't know if IP cams are varifocal or not, but if they are, I would prefer that as opposed to a fixed lens. +- $600.00 2- IP megapixel bullet cams with IR LED's or IR illuminators for nighttime. Mounted roughly 8 feet off the ground. One for surveying front yard and one for the back yard. +-$600 thanks so much! David edit: It's probably also important to note, if someone just explains to me how it works in a brief manner, and point me towards a good brand NVR, I can do the further research myself and pick the components. edit again: sorry, I'm learning more IP camera stuff as I go. As far as the unit used to record the video footage, I can easily build a performance PC if it's easier to run an IP camera through a desktop and just keep my analog cameras separate on their own DVR like I am currently running.

Never say never If it were me I would stick with an NVR and not go the Hybrid route. If you still want to use analog cameras use a Encoder. An Encoder converts the analog camera to IP. Many different flavors of Encoders. Obviously it would have to be one that is compatible with the software you choose. Examples of Encoders: http://avigilon.com/products/cameras-video/encoders/ http://www.axis.com/products/video/video_server/ http://www.acti.com/product/category/Video_Encoder I appreciate the info guys. I got a little over board on my install I went with all vivotek this time around to get my feet wet and familiarize myself with the new IP world. Once I ever get around to getting it all up and running I'll post some photos. Posted below is what I ordered and just waiting for it to arrive now: FD8361 3-9mm varifocal w/ IR LED FD8362E 3-9mm varifocal. No IR but IR cut filter so can add IR illuminator later on if I want to. IP8362 3-9mm varifocal WDR with IR LED IP8352 3.9mm varifocal with IR LED and a trendnet TPE-80WS switch. With the DVR side of things ordered a Avermedia NEH1008HN just to get the system started. I'll end up purchasing software and selling the DVR to a buddy but just wanted something to play with in the beginning. Thanks for all the input guys! Dave

hi. the specs will be seen by many sellers some may be ture some not. its all down to build quality and standing by there product. many people go on about the CNB being an expensive name it is infact the opposite. yes you can buy the same spec for a few $$ less and have 1 year warranty or just a few more $$$ have a good 5 years warranty I agree with you 100% Tom. I have a 20+ year old Panasonic PTZ that I picked up for 50 bucks at a swap meet a couple years back. I must admit though, when I purchased it, I was only after the housing and the Pan/Tilt base. They originated in a local prison and the housing was bullet proof. It was a plus that the camera worked though I've purchased some No Name ebay PTZ's from reputable ebay sellers for $300 or less, and 2 months later the electronics on the Knock offs have crapped out.That 20 year old Panasonic is still going strong. I prefer to spend more now and not have to hassle with being on a 25 foot ladder replacing it later.

There are a couple of questions your leaving unanswered here. The lighting conditions for where your placing the cameras, amount of area your trying to see, etc... I wouldn't worry about a PTZ, and you won't get a decent one that will last any amount of time for $300.00, IMO. Since you didn't list the brand name of the DVR, I'm assuming it's a knock off. Since this is your dream home, why skimp on the security system? To answer your question, I would go with the second camera you listed as a general rule because it has a higher SN ratio which would translate into a clearer picture. And since your running new cable from scratch, be sure to use Cat 5 w/ baluhns so that in the future when your ready to upgrade, you can switch over to IP system without the hassle of pulling new cable. David

Your going in the right direction. Generally speaking, your box shelf systems contain cheap components from the DVR to the cabling and everything in between. I've never used the Qvis Apollo, but others here will swear by it for an affordable DVR. I'm currently doing an IP system, but if I were to be in the market for a new cost effective Analog DVR, that would be the unit I would get. Two things to keep in mind that should get you started. First: Don't skimp on the cables, you'll regret it down the road. I don't know where you'd planned on getting yours from, but make certain it specifies RG59, solid copper core with 95% copper braid shielding. If it doesn't say that, they're selling you some junk that's subpar. Been there and done that. Second: Anytime I make a recommendation to someone starting an install that can't buy all the equipment upfront... Buy your self two decent domes, one for the front door and one for the back. Thieves may break in through a window... but your items always come out a door. Those are just my thoughts and I hope it helped you. David

Soundy, You have been a lot of help and it's much appreciated. I believe I have most of the information that I need in order to make an educated purchase. I have every intention of using a dedicated PC to run the software. Here are my final couple of questions, and I should be set. How far can you run PoE without needing a dedicated power source for the camera. A PTZ IP camera, does it require a separate controller like the older Analog cameras? Or is it controlled by the software. Can your steer me in the direction of a software provider you would recommend or stay away from? When purchasing software, is there any need for licenses since none of my cameras will be viewed on anything other than a local network that only runs the cameras. thanks, David

Thanks Soundy. I appreciate the advice. I'm fairly versed in computers and networking. Given your advice, I think the best route for me to pursue and would also be the most cost effective as well would be to just purchase the cameras I want and hook them to the switch. And from the switch to my local computer. With that being said, let me made sure I understand correctly. Eg. 4 port switch/router and 4 cameras. Hook cameras to router and router to computer and use the software on PC to view the cameras, is that correct? That def. sounds easier than using a dedicated NVR. What software do you recommend?