the toss

Well no builder here would do it as it leaves them exposed to all sorts of problems

But is this not possible because the digital channels use the same frequencies? your right - my mind is ars about face today

Samir I dont know about USA but I'm guessing its not much different to here. Until the ownership has been asigned the builder is responsible & liable for the site. Health & safety , public liability & indemnity to name a few. Anyone who is not covered by the builders insurances puts a huge amount of risk onto the builder that he would rather not have. I have already mentioned the easy way around this problem.

or use an analogue modulator plus an old set top box

He has already stated that he cant run the cable during construction , he has no rights to be on the site until the sale is closed. Assuming these are outside cameras then the only wall sheeting to consider is where the cables drop to the recorder. This can easily be catered for by dropping a "pull wire" into the wall before sheeting and then the cabling can be done at your leasure & by yourself if your so inclined

Pictures would be handy but here's a few possibilities. Is the IR reflecting off the underside of the eve? And you wouldn't believe how common this is - check that there isnt a protective plastic film covering the lens.

15 - 20' cable runs so I dont think it is a voltage drop issue. They worked ok before installing so I dont think it is a camera issue. Look at - split pair or wrong polarity on balun

Are you going to keep replacing batteries every couple of days?

It is embedded in the firmware.Talk to the OEM but it will probably involve a large order

I agree with Boogie

Iso alcohol or white spirit in a spray bottle to wash off the solids then a light rub with lint free cloth or chamois

How far would the power feed be in a car 3-4m . I dont think that it the problem. I saw the "exact" image on a Hyundai reversing camera just recently. I would say that you have inadvertently turned something on in the menu. (like others have speculated)

what do you mean by this "a cable with no joints is ALWAYS the best"? can you describe further or upload a simple picture? Thanks thanks securame unbelievable

Just remember that as soon as you drill into the box it is no longer watertight. Drill a 2mm drain hole in the bottom.

They are marked with polarity for a reason - you wont do any damage if they are wrong but the picture will be about as good as you've got now.

I'll get in before "securame" - those aint baluns. They are simply adaptors.

120' is only getting to the mid point of SDI's operating distance so the total length is not a problem. Every termination will cause about a 0.25dB loss to the signal but if your existing cable/terminations are sound then you should have no problems. ps- a cable with no joints is ALWAYS the best

You need them at BOTH ends. Camera (75^) to cat5/6 (100^) then cat5/6 (100^) to DVR (75^)

I get the feeling that you think the balun is just a way of getting cat5 to be terminated in a BNC connector. A balun is a matching transformer to match 100^ cat5 to 75^ impedance of cameras & DVRs and is neccessary when using cat5 as your transmission medium. The items in "tomcctv" post are only termination devices and DO NOT have baluns built in.

OR you could run one channel through a switcher which would alternate that channel between two cameras. All the problems of switchers ( missed events etc) would be present for those two cameras. For the price of DVRs now days take Nuetechs advice.

I had an identical problem a few years back. I was sure it was the camera but I contacted the dealer tech support just to run it past them. They wanted to blame everything but the camera ( most specifically the power supply). When the camera was bench tested it worked fine but when it was re-installed it would "white out". Pull it down it was fine - put it back up it would fail. The dealer sent a new one & it was fine. This gave me time to get stuck into the faulty one & it turned out to be the iris control board. I got onto the dealers national office & was told that it was a known problem that would start after about 12 months (chinese capacitors) & there was a new board to retrofit to it. They sent the new board as well as a credit for the new camera I had bought.

Can't imagine how I've wasted your time. I'm simply querying your statement about it being a "working network cable". You will not get composite video & network data on the same cable with baluns. Maybe you shouldn't waste MY time by giving wrong information

Your kidding

Wonder if it chases cats?

Inthat case I would say it is being generated internally by the camera. Replace it.