the toss

You can get stainless housings to suit most full bodied cameras but they cost a fortune. I have an installation at a local marina using aluminium housings and they oxidise fairly quickly (Chinese aluminium ). These housings are simply replaced on an annual basis.

The leads are only marked "cam" & "DVR" because of the male & female ends on the power lead.

No - the advice was since you bought a defective or used unit and you have no password to get into the setup menu you should return it & stop wasting everybodys time (including those on here that gave you free advice that you are so obviously grateful for)

I did buy this dvr thinking it would work but the seller never told me it was admin locked and he did not know passwords so mony is now a little low so being so close to christmas money is a little low . so trying to work around it untill i get it working or can afford a new one Take it back to where ever you got it & get a refund. It sounds like it is used to start with.

I'd be more concerned about the neurological condition behind the loss of pain reception

No better way to start the day than with a laugh ( but so true)

Just spam

Like I said eleven posts and 22 days ago

The distance limitation for power is determined by a) the camera power requirements b) the cable used to carry the power c) the power supply. The type of coax doesn't come into it. First of all look at the camera specs for working current & voltage range. This is what is required AT THE CAMERA for it to function correctly. The power cable will cause a voltage drop over its length determined by the cable length , the cable guage and the current. If you're not familiar with Ohn's Law then Google it , it is not difficult just basic maths.So , for example if you have 100m of 24x020 cable supplying 300mA then the total voltage drop due to the cable would be- 100 x 0.025 (cable resistance) x 0.3 (current in amps) x 2 (supply & return leg). That would make it a 1.5V drop over the 100m. The camera working range would normally be able to accommodate this but not neccessarily. Many cameras run on 24Vac or are dual voltage ( 12Vdc/24Vac) By running on 24Vac you solve a few problems. Earth loops are seldom a problem because essentially the power is now a balanced feed. Voltage drop is less of an issue. The 24Vac cameras and the 12Vdc cameras are the same except that the 24Vac ones have an on-board power supply converting 24Vac to 12Vdc. This allows a far greater headroom before the cable induced voltage drop results in an unuseable voltage at the camera. Hope this helps.

Really dont understand what is so bad about my english. I read my original post and it makes complete sense other than the fact that I dont explain why I need the delay. Which at the time I didnt think was necessary. So, let me try and dumb this down for you. I have a video camcorder, and I have a monitor/tv. I need something to delay the feed between the video camera and the monitor. What kind of hardware or software do I need to use to offer a delay of about 20 seconds? Nothing wrong with your English , Fenderman just has a problem with comprehension

Capturing number plates at night can be tricky with the best of cameras so you need to you need to ask yourself before you spend money - am I willing to pay what is needed to obtain the results I am after? If not then there is a good chance that what you spend will be wasted. My advice is that whatever camera you get make sure you explain exactly your situation & the results you expect & after the salesman sells you your camera get him to agree to a return & refund if (when) his assurances don't pan out.

I have come across PIRs mounted in all sorts of weird configurations - some work & some don't. These are adaptive installations as the PIRs are not designed to be used in such ways. You could try mounting one towards the end of the house looking back at the door & use a "curtain lens"

The displayed frame rate is a function of the recorder not the camera

750" is getting onto the limit for RG59 so if you go that way it will definitly have to be the best quality copper coax. RG6 will stretch out to about 1000" but can be affected by LF (<50Mhz) interference. Sources of this could be fluoro lights . sodium lights and industrial machinery. Personaly I would go for the RG59 with active equalisers to compensate for HF signal loss & general overall attenuation losses. The other thing is to mount them at "ladder height" to save a lot of dollars in cherrypicker costs for any maintenance/repairs in the future.

This is more to what you need to actually prove illegal dumping. I would suggest a proper camera for grabbing plates at the dumpster if possible. Make it easy, not hard- the best time to catch a plate is when the vehicle is stopped at the dumpster. If that's not practical, aim it where a vehicle is moving the slowest in the lot such as entrance/exit. A second camera should be aimed a bit wider at the dumpster with the goal of recording the person actually dumping illegally and if possible from that same fov, a shot of them taking the trash from the vehicle. From the combined footage, you catch them in the act, and then you can find them via the plate number. I wouldn't suggest relying on just one camera to do the job. sorry shockwave , your post was on the 2nd page & I didn't see it.

Having just been through the same exercise although with an analogue NVR camera, here are a few things I've found. The target area in your case should be back down the road near the wheelie-bin. This is the spot that the vehicles are coming directly towards the camera. Your lens will need to be at least 50mm to get a clear image in all conditions. If you use a 50mm lens looking at you existing target area the car will transverse the FOV too quickly for the slower shutter speed used at night and the image will blur. If you adjust it back to say 30mm you may overcome the blurring but not get a clear plate image. This is just what I found on a recent job.

You allow a lousey 24 minutes for a response before coming back with a sarcastic " thanks for the feedback". This is a forum NOT a help desk with people sitting around just waiting for your request for help/advice. Q-See stuff is a heap of sht

Under rated power supply

While I'm not familiar with Canada's electrical system, it does sound like an electrical wiring fault as Sector has already indicated. In Australia we use the MEN (multiple earthed neutral) system which provides the electrical earth (neutral) as well as a safety earth. These are tied together at the service point (fuse box) so the difference in potential within a building "should" be negligable. If the metal building is relying on a local earth (earth stake etc) then large voltage differences can develop if the local earth becomes compromised which is why it is very poor practice to not have the bonded earth to neutral. Remember that the electrical neutral is actually the earth from the power station. This is the principle for earth leakage circuit breakers. The current in the active & neutral should always be the same. When an electrical fault develops this balance is upset by current in the "protective" earth which causes the breaker to trip.

Sorry Richard I was assuming. A quick check of the 402 specs reveals that it doesn't. I am really quite surprised as it is an industry standard feature. I have never come across a quality PIR without this feature It is a bit like selling a car without a steering wheel. @ Lowpro - please think twice before displaying your ignorance. I said " the led is an indication of sensing not triggering". "Sensing" and "detecting" mean the same thing to me. Having spent 8 years doing component level electronic design in my earlier life leaves me with a pretty good understanding of electronics. If you want I could go into the workings of an PIR but at this stage I'll just say that the led is simply a visual indicator attached to the IR discrimination circuitry while the O/P is dependant on the o/p relay tripping which is after the processing electronics has done it job. The two most common faults for PIRs are the IR sensor and the output telay/ driver circuitry. How you relate the relay not tripping to poor installation practices is beyond me, may you could shed light on this. Wow, you are really reaching. If anyone is displaying ignorance, it's you, for assuming from the start. Don't you worry, I have a pretty good idea when my PIR is working, or not. And it won't have anything to do with covering the bright red LED with a piece of black tape. " title="Applause" /> Lowpro you seem over anxious to focus on the part of my post directed to Richard (my mistake of assuming) while staying well away from the part directed to you. Yes the specs says " the led lights when the unit detects movement " and your car owners manual says " the motor won't run without petrol " so when the motor next won't start then obviously it MUST be out of petrol. pleeaase! I have stated that most quality PIRs have a led disable feature and that that the led won't necessarily light when movement is detected. If you want to dispute any of this then go for it.

Sorry Richard I was assuming. A quick check of the 402 specs reveals that it doesn't. I am really quite surprised as it is an industry standard feature. I have never come across a quality PIR without this feature It is a bit like selling a car without a steering wheel. @ Lowpro - please think twice before displaying your ignorance. I said " the led is an indication of sensing not triggering". "Sensing" and "detecting" mean the same thing to me. Having spent 8 years doing component level electronic design in my earlier life leaves me with a pretty good understanding of electronics. If you want I could go into the workings of an PIR but at this stage I'll just say that the led is simply a visual indicator attached to the IR discrimination circuitry while the O/P is dependant on the o/p relay tripping which is after the processing electronics has done it job. The two most common faults for PIRs are the IR sensor and the output telay/ driver circuitry. How you relate the relay not tripping to poor installation practices is beyond me, may you could shed light on this.

This is my main gripe about using baluns. I have come across 16 channel systems like this and you just know that as soon as you move something you are going to introduce another bunch of problems. One way around it that I use fairly often is to loop the cat5 back along the body of the balun and then tape it. This will give some degree of strain relief. In larger commercial jobs run the cat 5 to a data rack, cable tie the cat5 as per normal data installation methods and connect to rack mount baluns. Then to the DVR with standard RG59 patch cords

Wrong ! The led is an indication of sensing NOT triggering. I have experienced lots of PIRs where the led is coming on but the relay is not tripping. I can't understand the mindset of someone who would put tape over the led instead of using the disabling facility already built in.

Every quality PIR ( and Optex is good quality ) will have a removeable link on the circuit board to disable the led. The led is usually disabled when mounted in public areas to prvent walk testing by potential criminals.

That screen shot looks like the cam at the back of the house (on the opposite side from the driveway). Where has the 180* coverage gone?