the toss

I wish people would have an understanding of what they are doing. RG6 is designed for RF frequencies and as such it's shielding is not particularly effective below about 50Mhz. What you are experiencing is LF noise. The only advantage of RG6 in CCTV is lts lower DC resistance which can result in longer runs IF it is a low noise environment.

VECTOR18!!!!! YOU SHOULD KNOW PAL Both your handle and your insults seem to somehow have a common theme to them. I'm done now, I don't respond to "eejuts" that resort to insults even if I were to blame by making clumsy comments. Consider yourself blocked, I don't use profanities and don't like to see them in writing either, insults roll off me like water off a ducks back. SUCKER there goes that theme again... You behave like a spoilt brat & then get offended when someone takes you to task. I didn't insult you I simply commented on your hehaviour. I guess that getting blocked is supposed to ruin my day. Anyway I would still be careful of that cable

And will struggle to see 10m

I don't think it was ME being emotional & if you put up your posts for general comment then maybe you need to learn how to accept the comment. Maybe no one will comment on your tester because you behave like a prick

You don't need to respond like that you Numb Nut. I simply pointed out a few observations in case you knew SFA about data cable & were being ripped off.

I'm guessing from the name on that cable that it is sold as a data cable ( cat 5/6 ). Now assuming that you haven't retwisted the striped ends there are a couple of things I notice. The brown pair is twisted the wrong direction and all the twists seem to be the same twist rate. So has this been sold as data cabel or just twisted pair (voice)

I am not a fan of ANY outdoor PIR. I just don't see how they can reliably discriminate in such an environment. Maybe the technology is leaving me behind. It is very hard to get any proper info other than sales talk now days

??? http://www.optexamerica.com/security-products/lx-402 Opinions? OK , I'll try to keep this from being too complicated. Kawboy - notice on the link you provided that it is recommended for " Lighting or Camera " NOT for alarms. The success of any electronic design is to establish a set of operational parameters which the design will address. So , what is the basic operational parameter of a PIR? If you said to detect a moving IR signature in a defined area then you would be correct. Now there are many other design parameters such as white light rejection , anti masking , temperature compensation , adaptive IR compensation etc but lets just restrict ourselves to detecting a moving IR signature in a defined area. Unless you design you analytics for a defined area you will have trouble determining if you are seeing a human signature at 20' or an elephant at 80'. The defined area is set by - the mounting height (recommended by the manufacturer) , the lens (radial limits) and the floor. All the grey areas for detection are eliminated. There is no need for adjustable sensitivity or detection angular adjustment. Now generally the cheaper detectors have poorly defined design parameters. Their marketing strategy is to boast about their range (at the expense of analytics) They get this range by increasing the sensitivity of the IR detection circuitry. But this in itself won't increase the range. It only increases the potential range , the lens still limits the angular detection area (ie it is still looking down towards the floor) So they then put in a vertical adjustment for the pcb (or sometimes the lens) Now by moving the pcb downwards the detecgtion area moves upwards (through inverting lens) The result is that the designers have handed over one of the most important design parameters to the end user (installer) That in itself would not be a problem if the PIR was set up properly for the environment it is in but do you think an installer is going to spend 30 min setting every PIR up to suit its location? What they end up doing is winding up the sensitivity to maximun thereby decreasing its ability to discriminate between real & imagined events. It would probably detect a fart. Tritech PIRs will always have a "range" adjustment" but this serves an entirely different purpose. Tritech PIRs are a combination of IR & microwave detection elements. Both the IR & MW are needed to initiate an alarm. That being said , the range will be set by the lowest denominator ( always the IR ). The adjustment is always on the microwave section for a couple of reasons. One is that MW will penetrate walls , windows etc which is not desireable. The other most used feature is to enable discrimination of physical size ( useful for pet immunity). Microwave motion detection is most usually through two methods. Doppler (as in radar) and standing wave patterns (the amplitude of which are proportional to the size of the detected object) By utilising both these detection methods you can start to build some pretty good analytics into your PIR. So now your design parameters can include volumetric detection area, size , speed , IR mass as well as anti masking & anti cloaking etc. So to cut to the chase - the existance of a sensitivity or range adjustment usually indicates a lack (laziness) of design effort. I am a big fan of optex PIRs and none of the ones I use have this adjustment. As I've pointed out , the one in your link is recommended for lighting or cameras where false tripping is not a big deal

Most "name" brand security systems will do the job you want , the main difference being the ease of programming. Depending on the amount of clutter in your garage you may need 2 or 3 detectors for decent coverage with no blind spots. The important thing here is not to go cheap on the PIRs. Most garages are not airtight & are likely to suffer from warm/cold air movement which will result in false alarms. Use good quality tri tech PIRs. A sure sign of a cheap PIR is if it incorporates a "sensitivity" or "range" adjustment.

PTZ controllers are pretty cheap to buy & most are switchable for all formats

If they are what's commonly called "mini coax" (nothing but shielded audio cable) then making them longer is the last thing you want to do

You cannot get a ground loop by earthing the shield of STP cable. Ground loops are created when the earth and signal share a common path. ie unbalanced as for coax .

Screened is always going to be better , but it's not neccessary and a fair bit more expensive. Cat6 would be better simply for thr fact that it is a thicker guage. Why have you opted to use twisted pair ? Keep in mind that twisted pair was never designed for composite video signals. It has been adapted to that purpose by the use of matching transformers (baluns) which will cause an insertion loss of 1 or 2 dB per balun. The ONLY advantage I can see in using cat5/6 is the fact that one cable can be utilised for multiple cameras if they are mounted in close proximity.

Most of the better quality cameras have the abiliy to horizontally "flip" the image if that is what are seeking. I've never seen that function on a monitor.

Not that are affordable

If the house is on piers ( ie a crawl space under the floor ) I think I'd be cabling from the eves into the ceiling space , taking all cables to one exit point at the back of the house maybe. Bring all the cables out through the eve into whatever size conduit you need and run it down externally to under the house & then on to where ever you need to take it. If you put the external conduit up beside a downpipe it doesn't stand out too much.

Depends on the construction. In Aust most two storey homes are brick/veneer. There is an unobstructed cavity of about 3" between the outer brick wall & the internal timber framing. This is of course on the exterior walls only. This makes it easy if the floors are elevated on piers but not so easy if on a slab. To put it simply you cannot get to internal downstairs walls in most cases.

I'd like to think that too , but it seems that more and more of these events are carried out by people who don't care that much about being caught.Yet the government keeps pushing the line about them protecting your safety. It's more about making their job easier after the fact.

You are talking about earth loops which don't present as this type of interference. This looks like a scan fault on the camera sensor

A tape measure & a multimeter

Which it is. Did it prevent the action from happening - NO. So while Government (big brother) like to promote the line that it will make you safer , in fact ALL it does is allow them to catch the perpetrators AFTER THE EVENT. Those that died derived NO safety from it

Can't give specifics as you don't say where you are. I'd be going for a hybrid DVR. IP cameras inside & analogues outside. In my opinion affordable IP cameras in low light & looking further than about 30m are not up to scratch yet. You may get out of it for $1k if your installing yourself but I doubt it.

You will never get a satisfactory result while that fence shaddow is on the subject. Makes him look like he is already issued with the prison garb

These are usually opposing terms. You should expect to pay at least $200. Anything less I would be wary of.

Be careful going with a recessed one. You may find that down the track if it needs to be replaced the old hole may be oversize & not suitable for the newer (and probably smaller ) unit. The ones I use have a recessed section the size of a 2 gang box and the rest of the faceplate is a thin (10mm ) surface mount. Having said that I have seen some (video intercom) door stations that are only about 1"x1"x4" high. That certainly won't cover a 2 gang size cutout.