the toss

While I'm not yet convinced that IP is the way to go for basic domestic system , remember this - HD analogue can easily & cheaply be made to run on cat cable. IP can be made to run on coax but not easily or cheaply. On that basis run cat5/6 cable & cover all bases

If the conduit is laid & sealed properly there should be no issues

As Tom has said. Using the T may work but your more than not likely to get ghosting on one or both of the monitors due to impedance mismatch. This is why , in the old days , monitors came with an input impedance switch which allowed you to set one as high impedance so as not to load the other.

A quick and simple tutorial in transmission lines. CCTC (and other systems) can be broken into 3 distinct parts. Signal source , transmission medium (cable) and signal load. Each of these parts (as part of the design) have a characteristic impedance . The characteristic impedance of the transmission medium is the theoretical impedance(NOT resistance) of a line of infinite length. When the signal source outout impedance and the signal load input impedance matches the line impedance then we obtain maximum power transfer. A bit like a irrigation system - if the pump outlet , water pipe and tap are all the same size , then you will get maximum water flow. Now in the analogue days the impedance of everything (cctv) was 75 ohms and all was good until the new technology of IP based signal transmission came along which required UTP cable with a characteristic impedance of 100 ohm. UTP cable was dirt cheap with pretty good noise immunity and so was attractive to use for analogue systems. This required the matching of the different characteristic impedances to work. The ability to do this has been around since electronics was conceived by using a simple matching transformer. These were common to match the 300 ohm ribbon cable to your 75ohm analogue TV back in the day. So by using a balun in CCTV we match the 75 ohm camera to the 100 ohm UTP cable then back to 75 ohm at the DVR. This is why one is needed at both ends. The use of baluns does however result in a small drop in transferred signal power. Basically baluns are baluns (given the impedance matching they are designed to do) with the more expensive ones having a bit of noise filtering built in. So if you are planning on using 75 ohm coax cable baluns are not needed and use of them will render the system inoperable. hope this has been helpfull The Toss

Motion is your nemises for night time cctv. You need enough to activate your DVR but not so much as to produce a blurred image. You may need to separate the two functions.

The cleanliness of the install comes down to the installer not the technology used

If you have your 150W floodlight facing the camera your not going to see anything anyway

What you propose is perfectly acceptable. Just be careful on the length of your power run

2nd

You can get to the back of them by simply sliding a tile up.

about half the cameras I install are white & the other half are charcoal. Not much call for yellow or green

Maybe a little off topic but why would you want to use cloud storage for your cctv footage

14/020 is 14 strands of .02mm wire. It is a fairly standard size used in the security industry. The thinner one being 7/020 the thicker being 24/020. The standard wire guage is not all that accurate when dealing with stranded cable. It may not be relevent in day to day matters but it is in engineering.

The camera voltage is generally not run over the coax. Excessive voltage drop comes about when using too small guage for the distance & current requirements. This is a straight forward mathematical calculation using Ohms Law. For 150' 14/020 will do the job. At first I thought your mention of RG56 was a typo error but you keep mentioning it. I have never heard of it and investigations reveal it is simply a heavy duty RG6 with a 1.5mm centre conductor. These cables are designed for digital TV use and have poor shielding performance at CCTV baseband frequencies - you have been warned. They may work in your environment but ........... Quality RG59 will have >95% pure copper braided shielding and at least a 0.9mm pure copper centre conductor. Solid neoprene dielectric not blown foam. Use Crimp or compression BNC fittings and ensure the centre pin is suitable for your centre conductor size. I worked in telecommunications for 25 years and comms cabling through a power box was a big no no. However it may be different where you live. Power distribution boxes certainly make the job look a lot neater however you are putting all your eggs in one basket if you get my drift.

Your questions in order of posting - * If each camera states 4W @ 12V then each camera requires 0.33A. If the cameras have IR lighting then 0.33A would seem a bit low. * You have not made clear the type of camera ( analogue , IP , HD/analogue ) - I dont go searching the internet looking up serial numbers. If it is analogue then use quality RG59 coax (NOT RG6) or cat5/6 with baluns. Baluns are simply impedance transformers, there is not much difference in them except the better ones have a bit of built in filtering. If it is IP then cat 5/6 is used. It doesn't matter which as both will easily handle the speed requirements. For IP 100' is a long run. *If the cable is being buried then put them in conduit and save some heartache *If using cat cable get solid as there is 15% more conductor area. Stranded is used where flexibility is required like patch cables * I wouldn't mount your DVR or run cables through your electricity box. Besides being probably illegal it would be a prime source of possible interference. Cabling is a lot of work -why risk having to do it over

I think a definition of EMI is called for at this point. EMI is electromagnetic interference caused by unwanted EMR which is electromagnetic radiation. Electomagnetic radiation , by its very nature is transmitted in the radio spectrum. Now while it is possible that electrical transmission lines can (and do) act as a ginormous radio antenna, the received signal strength is still in the mV region at best (or should I say worst) and is negligable when superimposed on the network voltage of 11Kv/30Kv. Now that is not to say there is no interference on the mains. You will find lots of switching noise , control tones and arcing - all potential sources of noise in your CCTV system. BUT other than arcing they should not be called EMI. Arcing on the other hand can cause problems over an enormous amount of the spectrum. The first morse code transmissions were simply arc transmitters with a very primitive tank circuit for tuning. If the interference is still there with no cameras OR cable connected then the problem is with the DVR. Modern DVRs are not economical to repair. Maybe a pic of the "fuzzy view" would help

............and I did not read it as fixing the problem. I was simply making the point that somewhere there is a salesman laughing his tits off over people buying EMI power supplies

your fault finding /explanation is a bit short on detail. * Has this setup EVER been working ok? (or is it a new setup) * You say the issue has disappeared with the use of EMI filtering power supply. This could be due to the reconfiguration of your power rather than the EMI filtering properties. This would point to an earth loop problem * Do the cameras normally use a RG6 coax . If so then be aware that RG6 does NOT provide effective noise shielding at CCTV baseband frequencies. It is designed for shielding at digital TV frequencies * EMI filtering via a power supply seems to be a bad joke since EMI (electromagnetic interference) by its very nature is interference induced via the radio frequency spectrum and hence NOT something a power supply will have much influence on hope this information is helpful

High frequency noise from a crappy Chinese SMPS

If the audio out level from the camera is around 1Vpp then it will go to the line in skt. If it is in the mV range then it will go to the mic in skt

There is IR that goes through walls ? who would've thought of such a thing

I think you may be pushing poo uphill with a stick. It will all depend on the construction of the house which is a bit difficult to see. It appears to be cavity brick or brick veneer construction so there will be a cavity between inner & outer walls. The trouble you've got is can it be utilised. The house would appear to be on a slab so no underfloor access. There appears to be windows on the 2nd level above the front door so the cavity will be blocked there as well.

You didn't confirm that it is in fact AC. Never the less a nice medium to heavy speaker cable will suffice. 100' is not a long run so voltage drop shouldn't be an issue ( even less so if it is AC)

If it is 24V you are requiring at the camera then I would assume it is AC & not DC. Regardless you do not need an earth wire. For a DC system two wires provide the positive & negative power feed. For an AC system two wires provide the power feed. The earth in AC (high voltage) provide for personal safety in the event of a fault - something not required at 24V AC and indeed may only facilitate in the destruction of your DVR in the event of a lightning hit (or near hit)

If this ever worked in the past , but is not working with a replacement section of cable then you have a fault. A VDA will NOT help your situation. Two questions ---> is the cable in conduit and why did you use F connectors?