the toss

That nection IS right

Is your 10pr cable back to the house a "differential twist" (eg cat5) ? Check for split pairs

I've no doubt that it s possible but not having ever done I cannot advise on gear or cost. Since your TV signal is RF (100s of MHz) and your camera is baseband ( <6Mhz ) transporting them on the same cable should present no technical problems.

or flip the screen

You are pretty much on the limit for RG59. One thing I would do is use 24Vac cameras.

you are headed for heartache. If you must go this route then at least use cat 6.

You could cut it to length & then resolder a BNC if you are ok with soldering. When finished make up a cardboard tube to fit over the solder connection & then fill with hot glue. This will give some degree of strain relief similar to the molded ones. You could also use a balun to re-establish the BNC connection but you would need one on both ends. Baluns are simply balanced to unbalanced transformers. If you convert it to a balanced signal at one end you will need to restore it to unbalanced at the other. This will also involve putting a bit of loss into the transmission line (insertion loss)

I would guess that they were NOT for cameras inside the house (unless it was originally pre-wired by a weirdo) So that leaves the outside & garage if any. If I was putting three cameras (othe than the ones you have identified) outside then I would be covering driveway, back yard , narrow concealed areas between house & fence etc. If you have ceiling access have a look around & you will probably find them lying in the eves.

A VERY ommon problem. Do you feel any warmth from the camera? If not then it's not getting power. Test continuity of your 1 foot coax pin to pin and outer to outer as well as no short circuit from outer to pin. If this is ok & you're sure there is power at the camera then the camera is scrap.

This test would say to me that it IS the camera. There are 3 basic tests to do. Power , cable & cameras. Power - 12Vdc or 24Vac ? If it is 12Vdc then try running a camera from a 12V battery at the camera end. Try to get a voltage reading at the camera and under working load not an open circuit reading (which is meaningless) Cable - you have different quality cables of different lengths so by swapping cameras around between different cables you should be able to see any problems. Camera - you have 4 older CMOS cameras. While CMOS has improved quite a bit recently the older ones were hopeless. The newer CCD ones are 1/4" sensor & the light gathering capability suffers accordingly. The ultimate test is to get a short BNC/BNC cable. Connect the camera directly to the DVR & power it from a 12v battery. This will eliminate power & cable issues in one go. (leaving you with camera/DVR issues) It still sounds like low quality cameras trying to operate beyound their capability

I'm confused. First you say it's working great then go on to describe in some detail that it is not working great at all. From your description I would have said it was a "cheap camera" problem. It sounds like the sort of result you would get by having rhe Gain set way too high.

There should be two settings in the camera menu. Day to night light level as well as night to day light level

I mean to be helpful when I say this but - wouldn't it be better to spend your money on treating your paranoia rather than spending it on fuelling your paranoia. What/who is it you are worried about? I hope you don't have firearms. Paranoia & firearms are a BAD combination.

Why do you think RG6 will solve your problem , it may make it worse. I would suggest you read up on RG6 vs RG59 particularly with regards to shielding capabilities.

Look around for a mounting base. These will give you an inch or two more room behind the camera. By the way , what is the stucco attatched to?

You should ALWAYS insulate you BNC/BNC connectors from ANY metalwork. Even it the metalwork is not earthed it can act as a pretty good antenna for all sorts of RF noise.

If your new lens doesn't have the plug already connected then send it back & buy one from somewhere else. I have wired these plugs on in the past & it is a pain in the rectum. I haven't seen a lens without the plug connected for a long time

Why I ask about the box camera is that after they are put in a weatherproof housing they are fairly big & unsightly. Armoured domes are more vandal proof & the only downside is the physical constraint on lens size. Usually 12mm is the max so they are not ideal for long range which I'm guessing wont worry you. I would be putting two armour domes outside looking at the entrance from either direction. This would also capture any loiterers who are up to no good. One dome directly inside the entrance to capture good facial shots of everyone who enters. Then whatever you think is required inside the shop. Get at least an 8 channel DVR because once you have a few cameras you WILL want more. Good luck with the project

Is there any particular reason you need a box camera outside?

So your "TV" is running on VGA ?

What are the specs on the power supply ?

There is no polarity when operating on 24V ac. Since it is happening on all cameras then it is obviously something common to all cameras. That would be either power supply , or the DVR itself. Just power up one camera & see if it still happens. I would suspect you have a crook DVR.

Is it happening with ALL cameras? The only difference between 12V DC & 24 V AC cameras is that the 24V AC cameras have a circuit built in to rectify/regulate the 24V AC to 12V DC. So really all the cameras internals are 12V.I have found that the weakest part of the 24V cameras is this regulator board ( usually fat caps). About 80% of faulty 24V cameras can be salvaged by bypassing this regulator & running them on 12V.

Bring the LCD monitor back to the DVR to confirm the composite (BNC) O/p is ok from the DVR. If it is then your problem is the LCD screen itself or your cabling / terminations. I'm pretty sure VGA won't run for 500'

So is the "video loss" message generated by the DVR or by the screen. This will tell you where to go looking. If I interrpret you correctly then you are losing all cameras & the "video loss" message is actually generated by the monitor itself because it has lost (useable) input. One other question - is this a new installation or has it been in & working for some time?