the toss

Your problem is "MOST" likely that your extension cable is NOT the same configuration as the original 60' cable. You cannot mix A & B type terminations, they must be kept consistant.

No , nothing has changed at my end. I used to get up in the morning and there would be posts logged in the early hours of the same day (local time). Now the earliest a post will appear is about 14 hours later. So any posts lodged this afternoon I wont get to see until tomorrow. (making sense?)

How come I am seeing posts that are not real time.? All posts seem to be delayed by a day or so

Holey resurrection Batman , a 2 yr old post brought back to life using NO useful information

A bit off-topic but I cant seem to make $249 - $73.37 + $10.62 equal $223.11 but then I'm not an accountant.

If the foreground is in low light & the background is in bright light (like looking from inside a shop at the entry door and having bright light outside) then adjust the BLC (backlight compensation)

A good system will give clearer more recognizable images for day and night use

NPR cameras can be had at a fairly good price nowdays ($300 or so ) but that is only half your problem. An expensive NPR camera can be rendered useless if it is not set up correctly. Obviously to get a number plate you will need a front or rear end shot. Full frontal is best except at night when you have headlight glare issues. As you move away from full frontal the headlight glare problem decreases but the ledgibility of the number plate also decreases. There is a sweet spot which minimises both these issues and that is 30* angle of incidence from the front of the car. The other important point is to have a defined target area. This is the spot that the target vehicle WILL pass through and the camera is set up for optimal performance in this area and ONLY this area.

I think you are wrong ....... How have you got to his cameras being cheap ? Maybe you're right Tom & I jumped to an unfounded conclusion. What I "should" have said is that his symptoms are indicative of having a cheap camera

I wouldn't be buying from them any more - cause this isn't rocket science. What a camera is trying to do is capture an image which is composed of light. Almost any scabby low quality camera will be able to do this with varying degrees of success. The REAL test is at night in low (no) light. Because of the poor sensitivity of the sensors used in cheap cameras there are a number of tricks the manufacturers use to compensate. They can wind the AGC (automatic gain control) up. This amplifies the signal but unfortunately also amplifies the noise which results in a grainy picture. They can increase the aperture and shutter timing which lets more light through to the sensor but this can result in objects moving across the frame while the shutter is open resulting in the blurred image you are getting. So - short answer is that it is the result of cheap cameras.

Get onto Larry (admin)

Like everything in life it is not that black & white 1) Ignoring other problems the distance will depend on the quality of the cable. RG6 has a lower DC resistance and hence lower signal attenuation resulting in greater transmission distances. Cables can come in copper , copper clad aluminium & copper clad steel. These all have differing attenuation figures. Keep in mind that RG6 is NOT the best cable to use for cctv due to the shielding being optimised for RF frequencies rather than CCTV baseband frequencies. 2) In the context of CCTV , passive baluns are not for use on coax cables 3) Again it will depend on WHICH cat cable you use as they have differing DC resistance 4) You can ONLY use ONE pair for your signal path. Use multiple pairs and it wont work 1) Cat6 is better than cat 5 due to attenuation figures & bandwidth 2) Again you can ONLY use ONE pair for the signal 3) Depends on which cable you use AND your cabling techniques 4) The same as for any network configuration OFC - there is no need for more than one fibre. Just get the correct muxing equipment

Its only going to take the slightest bit of moisture to get on the circuit board for those tracks to dissolved in a matter of hours. 12V + water = no copper With a bit of rain & some wind water dropletts WILL get to it

There should be somewhere on the screen or the menu where you can open up a virtual keyboard that shows on the screen. Then use the mouse to enter your info

You REALLY are better off without that cable that is included in the kits - it is a constant source of problems. You dont say where your from but there are hundreds of sellers on line. From a proffessional's point of view those kits are just rubbish. The DVRS are cheap knockoffs , the cameras are low quality crap , the cables are rubbish and the power supplies are underrated. Shop around , you should be able to get quality components and only pay a little more than the scabby kit.

Try the usual - admin , user , 1111 , 11111111 , 1234 , 12345678 , 88888888

Most likely your problem comes from using a cheap camera that is struggling to perform in low light (no light). What you are seeing is noise induced by the agc of the camera. Your thin cheap cables are probably contributing to the problem which is what you are seeing during the day - induced electrical interference. Those thin pre-made cables are not even coax , they are simply shielded audio cables and are rubbish.

You need to understand the concept of this power supply. It is simply a single 20A power supply with 18 parallel output feeds each protected by a PTC device. They are not fuses. They are tripped by a rise in temperature caused by overcurrent and are a slow acting device when compared with a fuse. Fuses are usually for fault protection while PTC is for dummy protection. You can parallel the outputs up to provide greater current capability. Wire 3 o/ps together and you triple your current availability which is then fed via 3 PTC devices so protection essentially remains the same. DO NOT CHANGE THE PTC, As long as your TOTAL load current does not exceed your single 20A power supply capability all will be good.

Where are you connecting to at the TV?

"Distortion" could mean 1000 different things. Describe the "distortion"

Most security suppliers stock these. Bosch part No 101117

As I posted above

"PROBABLY" red = +12V Yellow = video Blue = comm (-12V AND video ground) Are you sure they are IP cameras ?????

As Tom says almost certainly your power supply. If it is a SMPS (brick) they have a habit of taking out cameras with them

If you are only reading labels and colour is of no importance then consider getting a good quality black/white camera. When colour information doesn't have to be processed you can get much higher contrast / resolution by going B/W