postaleyes

I'm not exactly too sure what you are asking... Check out the Pelco Field of View Calculator... I'm prety sure that the focal length of 122.4 is the amount of distance it can see? Check out that calculator.

Well good to get you thinking! Yes it is best to not have to ever clean it, but sometimes you must! If you use a micro-fiber cloth or a Kim-wipe, with any sort of anti-static cleaner, you are protecting your investments. I have over 500 cameras at my property and the ones that get the most exposure to cigarette smoke are cleaned most often, always with the anti-static spray. That spray leaves no streaking residue and are able to withstand the cigarette smoke longer than if I were to use industrial glass cleaner.

Suzo-Happ Plexi-Clean. This stuff is amazing. It's in a black and red aerosol can. It's anti-static. It works good for cleaning cell phones too!

How old is the camera? The video could be going out... I've had a couple of cameras with this issue and i've just had to retire them.

What about running the lines through the ceiling and up in to the wall of the 2nd story? It might take a little hole being knocked out of the sheet rock to see where would be the best way to go up unless you have the blue prints of your house.

I have a VSI Pro connected to a Micros printer. The thing is, I used Cat5e to extend the line. I have done this for the same VSI Pro next to it and it works on the register just fine. I know how to hook everything up and program the VSI but whenever I connect the RS-232 from the other VSI Pro to the spare port on the printer, it stops the printer from printing. The screen of the register says that there is a printer error. Could this be happening because the Cat5e is not wired correctly?

RX is recieve data and TX is transmit data. Straight through data has the RX connected to the RX on the camera and the RX from the data source and the same for TX. Crossover has RX going to TX and TX going to RX. Is it a 2 or 4 wire system?

Ah, I figured it out.I had to reterminate one of the ends! Something so simple gave me such a headache.

Yes, that's what I would do!

VIDEO, DC and MANUAL refers to the type of lens you are using in relation to the iris. If the lens has a cord that you connect to the camera then that means the lens is automatic iris adjustment. If the lens just simply screws on to the camera, then the iris control is usually one of the rings on the lens that you turn to adjust. DC/VIDEO are almost the same thing, and those settings are used for automatic iris lenses. MANUAL setting is used for the lenses that you adjust the iris yourself. Shutter speed should be set to ESC for manual iris lenses. When the iris automatically adjusts, then the shutter speed doesn't have to change. But when the lens is manual then the shutter speed should automatically adjust to bring in the best picture. I would makes the settings Manual and ESC.

There really isn't any way to test it without the back box. The video, power and data lines are all connected to the back box. You can use a Spectra II or III back box door assembly to test it, you don't need the entire housing unit. You can test the video and power of it without the data, but you need the data line to test the pan tilt and zoom part. The data line comes from a code translator system. With all of that, it gets tricky and complicated with dip switch settings and whatnot... My advice is to send it to Pelco or Moore's Electronics and have them test it, it would be so much cheaper for you. If they tell you it works and nothing is wrong with it then you could go ahead and sell it for at least $900.

First make sure your camera is actually emitting video and you cable is working, by hooking it up to a handheld monitor or a different monitor. On the Blade video server there should be a dip switch box with at least 4 dip switches on it. Turn the switch off (up) for the one that you connected the video to. Page 25 talks about PTZ's. I hope at least some of this you haven't heard before. http://www.axis.com/files/manuals/um_243q_32637_en_0901.pdf

The amperage of the transformer might be too much. I work with similiar cameras that use 12v 500mA transformers.

I suggest using a Cat5 splitter. Connect it to the back of the printer, have 1 line going to the POS and the other going to the DVR.

I am a surveillance tech with a system that has almost 400 cameras. Both fixed mount and PTZ's. I have taught myself a lot about CCTV by reading but I am hard-pressed to find anything that talks about how to repair Pelco Spectra II, III, IV cameras. I have a few Spectra PTZ's that reconfigure when I attempt to 1-shot them to their original location. What does that mean? I also have a PTZ that was burned out because the back-box fan went out. What parts can I replace to get the camera working again? The power supply kit? Any help, tips or tricks regarding repairing Pelco Spectra PTZ's would be much appreciated!

The actual lens shouldn't have anything to do with the picture turning dark. Check the removable IR-cut filter. It might not be functioning properly.

A serial split (9 pin) should work unless it has 25 pins! Does the back of the printer have an RS232 Com port?