voip-ninja

Hey all. I have two Samsung SNV5080R cameras that have integrated IR. On one of them I noticed that I am starting to see bleed through IR. I took the dome off of the camera and the foam baffle that shields the lens from the IR lamps is still there and in relatively decent shape (there's a bit of deformation but not in the area where the leakage is happening). This camera also has the IR LEDs recessed, so I am surprised it is happening at all. Is there a trick to trying to mitigate this? I cleaned the dome (initially I thought it was condensation in the dome but it is dry) but I was nervous about messing around with the foam ring as I suspect any monkeying around will result in it simply coming off (that was my experience with Vivotek). I suppose as a worst case scenario I can try manually dialing down the brightness of the IR since on the Samsung cams they are adjustable.

I did just think of something that I did that could have affected this. When the weather started to warm up I used a small amount of expanding foam sealant to make sure wasps would not get into the camera body and build a nest. It has been working fine like that for weeks now, but I did trim the foam back a bit and painted it to make it cosmetically better looking and it was not too long after that when I noticed this new problem. I will get a screen cap of what I am seeing and post into this thread.

Is that the kind of thing that could happen suddenly with no change to the environment of the camera? This camera has been working fine for months and I haven't changed where it's pointed or anything else for that matter.

Hey Pluff, sounds like you're really taking your Axis setup to the next level. I would be interested on your experience with PIR and the infrared trip-beam sensor. Of more immediately interest to me are the Android based HDMI pluggable computers. I actually run a Synology setup for recording of my Axis (and Samsung) cams and they have a pretty decent Android app (the iPad one is better, but c'est la vie). What pluggable Android stick would get the job done if I wanted to connect this thing to the TV in my family room and always have it running the Synology app? Thanks

I purchased a one-generation back Samsung Galaxy Tab 8 for $200 used on eBay. The screen is quite a bit bigger than the 7" tablets. For what I spent I also got a charging dock, case and other stuff along with all of the boxes. It cannot run any OS newer than ICS but for my purposes (running Synology Surveillance App) it's fine. It's a pretty spiffy setup too. I just leave it on a small end table close to the front door and normally have it set on the front door camera. Makes it easy when the doorbell rings to know if it's someone I want to talk to or a door to door salesperson or bible thumber I can ignore. Whatever you buy make sure you have a way to keep it charged and in an appropriate position without having to use a special case or other thing to keep it propped up.

Lots of cameras allow for motion detection trigger areas to be set by the user. Be aware that you will likely get a LOT of false alerts, especially at night as things like the headlamps of cars driving by will often set motion detection off. Having said that, on decent model cameras there is a lot of tuning you can do such as the sensitivity, etc. BTW, putting a camera indoors and pointing it out a window is one of the worst ways to set it up. Bite the bullet, run the CAT5 cable to the outdoors, seal it properly and put a real outdoor camera there.

I think you'd get more answers to that particular question in the non-IP forum.

No, that's not what I did. The scenario you're describing above makes no sense to test. I tested your claim that moving a large amount of traffic between two ports on the switch in his router would slow down other traffic through the switch in the router. I moved 90Mbit/sec from port 2 to port 3 (simulating the PoE switch to NVR connection in the router's switch) and simultaneously moved 900+Mbit/sec from port 1 to port 4. The 90Mbit/sec moving between port 2 and port 3 had no impact on 900+Mbit/sec data transfer speed between port 1 and port 4. There was no slow down from the simulated camera to NVR traffic going through the router's switch. Hmm ,may be I should send you very interesting "adapters" its Ethernet over coax here is what will happen If I disconnect coax from adapter it WILL kill every port (meaning every camera on network is DEAD this is just small example also try to put camera on RTSP and see if u like your local LAN performance. my point still the same keep traffic separate its simple to do and right way to do it No decent IT person will allow me to put IP cameras on their network always separate subnets One of my previous jobs was engineering data networks for voice over IP environments. Generally speaking, the reason for doing any segregation in the network is to limit performance impacts at large uplink points. This is not normally a concern in the home network where the cameras are simply feeding via a switch into a single device on the same switch (NVR or NAS). Switches have a maximum backplane speed (maximum number of frames or packets per second of switching). Theoretically, even if your cameras were all sending a big fat 20Mbps signal, they could all aggregate to the NVR/NAS with ZERO performance on the rest of the network.... because even cheap consumer switches now have backplanes that are much faster than the sum of all their ports. In cases such as the OP described I think the most logical thing to do is connect the cameras and NVR to the PoE switch and simply plug that into the main hub/router. Even if the link speed negotiated is only 100mb on that uplink it should not impact the performance of the rest of the gigabit switch that is in the primary residence router. Bottom line, I think that the idea of splitting into two networks in a home network is overkill in almost all cases unless there are justified concerns about bandwidth within the home network (due to other applications, etc) or there is a security concern. Sometimes, as an installer, it is nice to know that a given portion of a small network is for "cameras" or "phones" or whatever so that if there's a problem later you can quickly narrow it down. Typically this would simply be done with different subnets or VLANs, you can get some pretty nice small router/firewall combos these days for under $300 (Sonicwall is pretty good).

Good news, I will go over to their forums and check it out. I pestered them on their Facebook page about why it was taking so long to take care of Mac users. Honestly, the Synology app for the mobile devices at least is a pretty good way to keep tabs on your cameras.

If you were playing around with different apps it is possible that another application sent a command string to the camera turning off motion. In my case I let Synology turn the motion detection on initially then I just get into the camera to set up the zone coverage areas, etc. I do have to make sure that on the Synology end I adjust the sensitivity and such or when Synology reconnects it will blow out any settings I put on the camera. Since you have a free 1 cam license on the Synology you really should give surveillance station a try. It's pretty easy to set up and the iOS app will let you review recordings and live video, even over a 3G/4G connection. I imagine it will work in conjunction with Axis Companion.

Most low temperature cameras call for 12 or 24V power supply to work the heater... that's how my Samsungs are. In the case of my Axis cameras, they actually operate the heater with PoE class-3. It's been down to -5F here this winter a few times and none of the cameras have had any trouble, but I'd be miffed if any of my cams got konked out by whimpy -5F temps.

So how's it going? Happy? What about PQ?

Rescue Tape is sold under a few different names. It's a silicone tape that will only bond to itself. It's very commonly used in marine/outdoor applications and is even recommended by a few camera manufacturers for water-proofing cable entrances on their cameras. It will not get brittle even if it sits out in the sun all day for years.

Not sure what you mean by horizon? Do you mean you need to level the camera so that it's parallel with the horizon line? If that's what you need to do, it's a pretty easy thing. With the P33 you just loosen the same screw that allows you to rotate the camera and then just twist the little assembly at the front of the lens, that actually moves the lens and board and adjusts the angle.

Unfortunately you've run me out of ideas. I don't have an Airport/Time-Capsule so not sure what in the config might be causing trouble. I do have a thought though. You could direct connect the Axis camera to the internet (plug it in directly behind your cable modem and bypass the router), and, assuming you can get into the cable modem and determine what IP it has (an internet routable one) you can test it with your time capsule out of the way, which would prove if the trouble you are having is with your router, the Axis camera, or potentially even your work network causing problems.

If you are behind a home router appliance then technically you are on an "intranet" which means you are using internal IP addresses vs external IP addresses used on the internet.

Have you tried to change the port numbers on the Axis camera to different ones (make sure you keep track of them) and then try forwarding those? It could be that the default ports the Axis camera are using are not available for use in the network (something is using them already). What ports for the Axis are you trying to forward?

Yes, that will be tonight's project. Yeah, just set static ports for the syno apps you use and forward those manually, no need to have Synology use UPNP to set something mysterious with your router that is borking up other things.

If Time Capsule is not showing you a breakdown of exactly what is forwarded via UPNP then anything is possible. You might want to clear the router out and set things up manually.

If you put your Synology IP into the DMZ of your router then all unidentified internet traffic that comes in will be forwarded to the Synology IP. Normally the way you do these things is you set up specific port forwarding rules for each service on each device on your network. For example, I've forwarded specific ports to Synology for Surveillance Station, admin terminal, file station, etc. If I wanted to be able to access my cameras with the Synology app then that's all I need to do and I can access my cams and recordings from the Synology app on my iPhone. If you want to forward other ports for direct camera access on the Axis camera, or for Axis Companion, then you need a list of those ports and you will need to enter individual port forward rules for each and every one of them. I just use Synology camera app on my smart phone when I want to remove access my cameras... rather than using a viewer like IP Camera Viewer Pro... primary reason being that most apps don't allow for event review, but the Synology app does.

If I recall, that's where the fan cable plugs in. If you remove the camera body from the housing you have to disconnect the fan. In both of my units, when I took them out of the box, the fan lead was connected already so it was pretty obvious.

Heater gets quite warm so you might want to watch out for that. Good luck.

I feel your pain. I bought a $400 SSD drive from an eBay seller with perfect feedback. The auction terms indicated Priority Shipping, but the clown sent it via first class mail (with delivery confirmation) in order to save a few bucks. It was estimated to get delivered on the 18th but appears to have gone missing (left a sorting facility a week ago and disappeared)... if the dipstick had simply shipped it Priority as he indicated I would have it by now.

P3364-VE has both lightfinder and WDR but the WDR is a bit noisy, I don't know if that's typical with WDR for other camera manufacturers or not. I will say that lightfinder is rather impressive technology, I've never seen images as good with little to no scene lighting as I get with the Axis cameras.

You might be right, but the way I look at it, I would like wider coverage so I at least know who is around, rather than my goal being facial identification of everyone who walks by, or the license plate of every car driving by. I actually have four cameras and a couple of them would definitely provide enough detail for facial identification of someone coming through a doorway for example. In other words, I think that the goals of the residential security user are often different than that of a business.