kensplace

If the hallway is only 4 foot wide then you can cover that width easy in a normal orientation, you dont need to get the full length of the hallway really, you just need a 'choke point' ie as long as the have to pass by the cameras field of view, you get a good shot. If you do roll the camera on its side, then you would also have to lie on your side to view the output on the monitor! (or have a monitor turned on its side...) 24Vac is best for longer runs (but is fine for short runs also), as 12vdv suffers from voltage drop over the longer runs. If your runs are short, 12vdc compatible cameras can be used with a battery backed up power supply, as its pretty much impossible to find a battery backed up 24vac supply (as it would have to convert the battery to AC) Some good quality (but certainly not all) professional box cameras can use either 24vac or 12vdc.

Before you do anything you should ensure you have read and understood all the local rules and regulations (if any) that would apply to the job. If you dont, and something goes wrong, you would probably be responsible for the damages, as the insurance company would be within their rights I would imagine to not pay out due to a non compliant (to the regs) installation. If not worse, it could kill people.

Why?

Cant say I have had any major instability problems with my gv1480 card, runs rock solid 24/7. Is the pc up to the specs required for a geo system (ie right chipset etc). Is the geovision card authentic, or a clone (may be worth checking with geovision if in doubt) as the clone cards are extremely realistic, they just dont work the same as a real one!

You can also use the geo software to search for motion in a defined area, so you could define a area someone would have to pass through, and let it run through the days footage. You only then have to view any footage it found where activity occured in the small defined area...

No idea on the how long a account takes, someone else may be able to answer that one, but I thought (although I have not used a h/w compression card yet) that the hw cards were supposed to be dvd like quality, and better than the software compression cards. Have you tried the hw one and found the sw one better? Or is it just a feeling the hw one will be worse?

There was a bit of a stink caused by the licence agreement for chrome when it first came out, some people noticed that the agreement stated something along the lines of you grant google the right to all content passed through the browers or similar. Cant recall the exact wording, but it was a really, really nasty clause, and google got pulled up over it.. They have apologised and said they would be removing the clause (they blamed it on using boilerplate terms, and copying the terms from another product by mistake) and the clause would not apply even to those who agreed to the earlier terms. So, from now on, Im going to be reading googles t&c carefully, in case they try to sneak anything like this through again....

Depends upon individual circumstances, you may need to register with the data protection registrar if its any thing more than just a residential homeowner using a camera to view their own property. Residentials are usually exempt, if your a business using CCTV then you probably will need to register... Worth reading up on the DPA (lots of links on google) to see if you are exempt or not - it depends on a few factors.

Whats the current rating of each camera, as if you have 14 cams on a 10amp 16 output supply thats a max of 710ma ish per camera, you may well be pushing that power supply a bit hard (but depends on how much current they need with the IR on, should be stated in the manual). Plus the problem with voltage drop as mentioned.....

The level l-h and alc p-a are for adjusting a auto-iris lens (l=low, h=high on the level one, and p=peak, a=average on the other) these are standard adjustments on many cams so google for instructions on auto-iris adjustments, peak/average etc to get more info, but chances are they will be at a reasonable level to start with, just make a note of where they are if you want to try adjusting them by eye so you can go back to the original if it gets worse The v-phase is to sync cameras line lock to other cams or recorders etc, it is usually not something you would need to adjust these days as its pretty much plug and play with dvrs. But it used to be a issue in the past on AC cameras like this. The AI switch should be to select thetype of lens (Auto Iris or Electronic Exposure (manual iris) at a guess). The 0-9 selector may be for either shutter speeds, or to select different backlighting modes, adjust it and see what happens.... DIP switches, not sure, again could affect backlight mode or shutter speed, or other features the camera may have. Best bet without a manual is to note their current setting, and then try the different combinations seeing what effect they have on the image. Hope thats some help.

Welcome to the forum!

And the road to hell is paved with good intentions...

Had a similar problem with my 1480 card, if a balun is wired up the wrong way round (it was on a active balun hub) then obviously the camera concerned gives a junk output on screen, but so it also corrupts several other channels (not continuous, but a lot of bad corruption). If I recall I also had a problem with a wireless setup I tested, but not got the wireless handy, the problem was either when the camera was disconnected from the wireless tx (cant recall which of hand it was a while ago, and the kit is somewhere buried under piles of stuff!) or the power was disconnected from the wireless rx, other channels were corrupted badly. There is definately some problem where one channel going bad in someway can affect others... Which is not ideal..

Did you change the ports in control center also? (edit button, configure, choose system configure and then network. Or can you not get into it at all? If going through a router or firewall you need to alter the port forwarding to use the new ports also.

Many day nights dont use photocells, but do use the method described. Often the cheaper ones with in built IR etc will have a photocell, its probably cheaper for the manu to get a simple photocell circuit built up to easily handle the light levels (and ignore sudden short brightness such as a passing car etc) than it would be to order a better quality chipset....

Faking the actual footage is the hard if not nigh on impossibly impractical part, but watermarks can be pretty easily worked around, times and dates also easy to fake usually, even with watermarking on the final evidence. A robust system in place to ensure the integrity of the data (such as data downloaded at the time of the incident, witnessed and archived in a secure tamper proof location) can prevent the claim that work was done to the footage after the event, or at least it should help.

Never had any problems with line lock yet, just plug and play.. A modern DVR should be fine without any oscilloscope measurements of phase etc. At least, its not something I have ever had a problem with.

Yup, it should not take that long, what are you seeing on screen during the 5 minute warm up (out of curiousity) is it just snow, or black screen, or distorted picture? Im sure I had one of those cams before (it may have been a 9712 though to think of it) and it developed a problem where it would not always power up, and sometimes died in use - the circuit boards inside were loose, they connect to each other with pins in sockets, and they needed to be reseated (and I ended up having to use a bit of card to jam in the side to make sure they did not work loose). Could be worth a check to make sure they are all nice and tight inside (powered down!)

Would depend on where you live, as different countries/areas have different rules and laws.

You would need to get a lawyer or other professional familiar with the laws in your area, but I cant see (from a UK perspective) why he would even need to see footage of other people - the footage he would need to have a copy of (make sure they never get to touch the original footage/drive) would only be the footage where he has commited whatever criminal acts you are prosecuting him for surely?

Its a mobile DVR MDVR v6n - seems to be sold by a few different places. Has a docking station the unit slides onto all the leads plug into db connectors on the docking station. Has USB ports, ethernet port, compact flash, can play adverts/music and videos. 4 Channel with audio, 2 composite video outputs, vga output, sensor inputs etc. Has GPS capability (not got a gps antena for it, will a cheap one of ebay do?) and is controlled via a remote control.

Welcome to the forum. Just been playing with a mobile dvr, great little thing - so tiny and robust by the feel of it!

If whoever was responsible really knows what they are doing, they could even delete offsite recordings as if they can get access to the pc, the details of how to connect to the offsite system will be on it (they have to be so it can connect to upload) Completely securing the pc is your best option, and if possible have a second spare dvr (a cheapo one) which is hidden, and no one else knows about, with a covert camera watching the main dvr. At least that way, if they do get in, and do get to the PC, and delete the data, they wont know there is another seperate system recording them doing it...

Are you monitoring the temps in the pc to see if its overheating?

Check to see if the camera you want to use can be set to use pelco d or pelco p protocol, as geovision supports those. Its a fairly common protocol, so chances are it may be possible. Other than that, you could maybe change one of the existing ptz ini files, but you would have to have a in-depth understanding of the protocol for the camera, and the ability to decipher how they do the protocols in the ini files, and plenty of time for trial and error!