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I have a wired Hikvision camera connected to a wireless router. I am running a PC with iVMS-4200 and trying to record to its local drive. Can't seem to as I'd like. Motion detection triggers but doesn't record. I can manually record but those files don't show up in the playback window. I could only get them by opening the player and selecting the file. I've messed with storage settings with no luck. I wish this wasn't so complicated, I just want it to record on motion. Everything else is good, as far as the other setup, and the cameras ability to capture what I'm looking for. TIA.

Im pretty new here but its entirely possible that whatever wrecked your power supply also wrecked your cameras (surge)? Ive seen cameras that blew fuses and once fuse was replaced camera was wonky.

Some fuses blew during a recent lightning storm, I noticed the fuses in the power distribution box were 2 amp, which seemed high. Looking up the specs the original fuses were 1 amp. I guess over time someone changed them for some reason. Is there a rule of thumb on fuses? Some of my cameras only pull 150ma, or do I just go with what came with the power supply? I could see a rule of thumb where you do 2 or 3 times whatever the amp draw is of the camera, or maybe any camera should be able to handle 1 amp for the split second it takes to blow the fuse? Also, any easy answers as to how this happens on a regulated power supply that is connected to a surge protector? I know it gets difficult to diagnose over the internet, without a ton of info, so Im just asking generally.

To me, although not terrible and probably a lot better than an analog camera, the quality I'm seeing out of this Hikvision camera isn't what I was hoping or expecting. I tried out a Geovision 1080P indoor cube camera a while back and it looked terrific. I'm running the Hikvision at 720P although it is capable of 1600x1200 but it doesn't seem like running it at 1600x1200 helps any. I've also tried a few different settings to no avail. Basically a lot of noise in the picture, and a bit muddy looking. I've attached an example for your opinions/suggestions. EDIT: Forgot to mention, I've seen another video from the same camera on Youtube and while it did look a bit muddy, it didn't have anywhere near as much noise. The only thing I can add is that I am running the camera on a 12 volt 2 amp DC power supply. I've had it plugged in in a few different places under different circumstances and it always looked the same.

It's not so much how fast they are traveling, more so that I want to capture as much info as possible for the X amount of seconds they are in front of the system, depending on lighting conditions, height of the vehicle, angle of approach, etc, it might be that a few extra frames that we capture might be the difference between getting a plate or not. This just captures plates based on movement in front of the keypad, it's not tied to LPR software or the kind of access control you have. Sounds cool though. This is just in case anything happens we have a front plate, at least when the person entering has a front plate. So far it does an excellent job of catching plates, but if I can do anything to increase quality I will, without getting a new camera, lol.

This may come in handy for me. Running the Hikvision software on an old 3.2 GHZ P4 and it's bogging down. Was considering just running the PC as a NAS and make all configs on the camera instead.

The main difference I had was the key frame interval was set to 1, I thought that was better, but in retrospect I guess I misinterpreted what I read. So if I'm running at 30FPS would 30 be a good setting, one per second? I didn't look at it very long because I just stopped by work for a few minutes but it looks like the smoothness of moving vehicles was better, but the overall quality didn't change. I also previously had it set to 1024x16 because the camera says it will do 16mpbs max, I could be wrong with that as well, but setting it to 1024x4 definitely dropped the quality a bit. The other two options as far as frame rate and resolution I kept the same. Would a higher iframe get me any smoother video, what might be too much?

Those would be quite different from my current settings. I'll tweak it and if it doesn't make a difference I'll post the current settings for suggestions. Also either way it will do 30fps at 720p and that's what I'm looking for in order to capture plates, I need as many frames as I can get, but I can tweak quality based on those two necessary settings.

I have a DS-2CD8253F-EI camera running the V5.0.8 130930 firmware. I upgraded once before to that firmware. I tried to upgrade to a newer firmware (5.1.0) which shows my camera as compatible, but it fails. The only thing I haven't tried is a direct connection, I've been trying over wifi, but I'm fairly certain that's how I upgraded it the first time. It basically instantly says in the status section: Upgrading Failed (using the web interface). Through the Hikvision software it just doesn't do anything, no progress on the progress bar at all. TIA!

Wow, you know this software well, especially for a guy with 30 posts. Really does seem more complicated than it could be. So that's all working, one more question that came up, how do I delete files? I know I can select them from that list, but the only option I can find is to export them. After all of this, I am wondering if I should go a different route. Right now the NVR software is running on a 3.2 GHZ Pentium 4 with HT 2GB RAM, 320 and 160GB hard drives. Decent system but the software taxes it pretty bad. Would I be better off using the in camera hardware and settings and just using the PC hard drives as NAS? Either way thank so much. I really wanted it working by the weekend, it's setup to catch license plates at our front gate and I wanted it working by the weekend and it does.

I didn't think it would work because on the next step there is no motion schedule to choose, however it seems to be working, which is great, however.... Files still don't show up on the playback page in the timeline or the file list.

When I try to edit the record schedule it's purple and the options at the top are greyed out. The only template I can modify is the custom one.

Good call though, I am using a different router than before, maybe a setting is blocking it.

I think I know what you're talking about, a different method for recovery that you can also try if other options to upgrade don't work. If that's what you mean that's what I was planning, if not I'll read up on it.

We use what I believe are analog cameras that transmit over a cable very similar to standard coaxial cable, which connects to a DVR capture card that digitizes the video. We have many different types of cameras of varying quality, but none of them hold a candle to a Geovision 2MP IP camera. Even at a resolution closer to 1MP it still looks so much better. Obviously higher resolution is better, but is it just that or other limitations? I know we can do D1 or close to that resolution as far as the capture card is concerned. TIA

We're on 8.3.4.0, which is about seven versions old. Just want to make sure there aren't any reasons not to update, there are a lot of new features, fixes, and improvements. Of course I still have to find it after that, but this is a start. TIA.

What confuses me is that D1 is about the same as DVD resolution. Why the large difference in video quality? I know bitrate and encoding codec has something to do with it, is that it?

I figured, just wanted to make sure before I asked. I need to see if some nice person would be willing to let me check out their Geovision IP camera info so I can see how it looks/works on my setup... Hmm.

Sounds like a silly question, but is there any issue with adding a non local ip camera to my Geovision setup so that I can see it on the main watch/record window that shows all of my analog cameras? I know I have 16 channels, and with a license I can add a camera, and I know I can add up to 8 Geovision cameras without a license, but is there any other technical reason I couldn't add a camera that's say in another city? TIA

It seems generally speaking most cameras have a hard time with direct installation on metal buildings, at least in my experience and what I've read. I've heard a balum can help, but the one I tried made no difference. I do have one camera however that works fine connected directly to a metal building. The setup is the same as every other camera, so it must be something about this camera specifically. Any idea as to why it works on the metal building and others do not, and how I could look out for similar cameras? Right now what we do is put pressure treated wood between the building and camera, but that's not always ideal. TIA.

Looks like I may have put this in the wrong place, sorry.

Just wondering which is better if anyone has tried both. I know there are more than two profiles, but generally speaking between the two. I know the H.264 should be better, but be more CPU intensive. TIA.

I have a situation where I'm working on cameras at a self storage facility. Because of this it can be quite difficult to get access to the occupied storage units. We would normally try to run walwarts from a storage unit to the cameras, but again in this case that would prove to be difficult. So what I'm looking for is a 120V AC to DC converter that is designed for outside use and can be hardwired. I know one exists because we have one on the property wired up to a security light that is right next to the camera. Replicating this would obviously be ideal because I won't have to try to access and storage units, and the wire run would be just a few feet. Can anyone help me locate this item? I can't find any markings or anything on it. This particular one is designed for four cameras with four sets of screw in terminals. That would work but two would work also. TIA

The power is normally setup to come from one main power supply, but for whatever reason some of them don't work. The story I hear is that someone at some point cut them for possibly nefarious reasons. The video comes the same way, in underground conduit.