Mr. Anonymous

Thank you, I just saw a video explaining the answer I needed. All the encoding is done right in the IP camera itself.

Sure, avoid this product though. I think the new revision has vent holes now. I wish I could find an HD version of this unit! Please allow me to explain why the USB DVR can not support HD size video or kinds. The interface is UBS2.0 which allows Max 480 Mega Bit Per Second. In terms of Byte, 60 MBPS. But considering communication over heads and bufferings for smooth processing by CPU on PC or Laptop, it allows Max 23 MBPS, narrowly passing D1 Sized Video Data of 30 Frames Per Second. For 4 Ch, the video previewed and recorded is to be limited to CIF sized (352X 240, NTSC) for each channel. This makes a great deal of sense with the bandwidth limitations, I would need four single channel HD DVRs on separate USBs to even come close to what I wanted. I am now looking at DVRs on eBay that will record 1080 @ 15fps which is better for identification than 720 @ 30fps in my opinion. I can buy a 4 channel DVR (without drive) for $150 that also supports two network cameras. I am confused how I would be linking the new DVR to my PC though, I do not want to run the HDMI to my monitor I actually want it on my desktop. I am assuming this is done via USB or Ethernet? In a sense the analog channels would be converted and sent over the Ethernet? Of course there is no need to use remote desktop connection anymore with a DVR I can just load some sort of remote/viewing software on all my PCs?

I do have a DVR but its in the form of a USB unit + PC. If I am to run ethernet cable it will be Cat6 (my computer network is Cat6) however my CCTV network is quad shield RG6 and I already ran 1000ft of it just a few years ago to all the camera mounting locations.

My computer network is not coax, its my CCTV network... which requires massive spools of cable and a lot of time. They have 1080 box cameras with coax output but it will get bottlenecked at my DVR right now. I assume this is what your referring to as HD TVi?

Because my network is all ran in high quality analog cable, so you are right I guess I do need a standalone HDD DVR to stream the channels into my PC hopefully over USB/Ethernet ...I use remote desktop connection to view my server from other computers on my network.

Sure, avoid this product though. I think the new revision has vent holes now. I wish I could find an HD version of this unit! Hi. It's been years since someone posted one of those on here. You just need to buy a 4 way dvr for your needs and get your motion and alarm and remote view Problem is, I do not want a standalone unit I want to use my computer. The thing that stinks is they do not make HD versions of these USB units. It seems the market has migrated to network cameras during the HD conversion which eliminated the need for a capture interface such as this USB unit....I think network cameras have the capture interface built into the camera itself?

Sure, avoid this product though. I think the new revision has vent holes now. I wish I could find an HD version of this unit!

I do a lot of videography and editing but I'm new to the surveillance camera thing. My buddy needed an RCA to coaxial converter so he could stream YouTube throughout his house on the coaxial network already installed in his home. He did not have the $20-$30 for the converter and I had one, being impatient he traded me some security cams for it (dumass) so I got these both for $20! I've needed a surveillance system for a while now anyway I have several $K into my custom interior electronics in my truck, enough said. The white Hitachi VK-C77U retailed for $399? The small cam is a cheap B&W Swann Secura Cam SW214-SCC: I am really impressed with the Hitachi's quality, and its auto focus. I think I'll be using the Svideo interface, it is highly configurable even via remote: This is where my truck is always parked, the view is out of the center of the house on the second floor but I have no windows to mount it in up there plus it's not waterproof so I'm thinking the basement window...also being MF it would be best for getting a focused image from behind glass: Look for the blue circle in the upper left hand corner of the basement window, I'm thinking this is my easiest location. It is closest and eye level for face shots however I would have a blind spot on the passenger side of the truck... I just need to find a way to get the video from the back basement window to the center of the house on the second floor. I know they make cheap wireless transmitters but they are RCA only, the cam is Svideo...I know they make adapters but how much of a picture quality sacrifice am I going to make loosing the split signal? The TV I was going to use (not camera monitor) supports Svideo input but I would be on an RCA line instead with the wireless. How would you go about this, wouldn't a long Svideo cable require some sort of inline signal booster that would add interference? They have Svideo to Cat5 adapters but Cat5&6 aren't shielded that well, they also have BNC to regular house coax cable adapters...I just don't know what to use without loosing picture quality!?

I bought some cheap mounts for inside use, mainly top level floor window box cams. The two on the right are what they look like, I bought two silver mounts and a lot of four black mounts but I used the pieces from two of the black mounts to modify them along with couplers from the hardware store. I am not sure what combo I will use but the silver ones are for my narrow window sills...either way with the lens against the window I need to extend the mount.

Just as residential use I've been toying around with this crappy 1/4"cmos black and white 380TVL Swann Secura Cam (SW214-SCC). It's okay but kinda borderline, it was given to me for free but it looked so cheap that I was thinking about investing in 4 of them (one for each corner of my home). When I searched online I found the same cams for $20 each but in color! I really don't need the IR lights, mic, or the fancy smooth case...so for double the price each @ $40 I can get these 1/3" CCD color 600TVL mini, resolution 811x508 (ntsc) which is better then the 380TVL 510x492...but HOW MUCH better would this cam be over the above??? I like this cam for several reasons; the lens can be swapped out for what looks like 25mm, 8mm, 6mm, & 2.1mm (other listings of this cam with one of those lens already on it). Also there is no mic as for I don't need one anyway in the neighbors house...no Ir lights either which are worthless and take up case/window space + electricity, the money must be going into the video quality. Will these work for monitoring ground level activities from 2.5 stories high or are they more of a door cam? (I know they don't zoom)

Generally speaking good sellers/vendors do not do not promote business the way you are... These cheap box cams are going to work just fine for what I need inside with a few in windows pointing outside they are only 570-TVL but look decent to me thanks to their lens. I need two waterproof cams for the outside doorways under the roof overhang and I want dome cameras, I found these for $110ea that are partially tinted and 1000-TVL 1.3MP (2.8-12mm lens) but they are 720-HD so I assume they will work on my 4:3 system as long as I center the image on my subject and the 16:9 sides will be cutoff. The model is CAM-VWDCSFP and there is nothing to find online by the model they must be made in China but $110 seems high for a China product. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1000TVL-1-3M-Pixel-Sensor-2-8-12mm-Zoom-Lens-Outdoor-Waterproof-CCTV-Dome-Camera-/351022320218?pt=US_Security_Cameras&hash=item51ba8f8a5a

So I bought 10 of these; the whole box for $30 but 6 were dead and only 4 are good...makes me think these like to burn right out on you. They power up but there are lines across the screen, and a few give no signal but there is still a power light on. Not sure if they are repairable or not but I will use these 4 @ $5ea. I will need some lenses though and using my 1 lens I have with a manual iris if I open it all the way the camera seems to try and compensate a bit as if the sensor has an auto iris. Was thinking about using a motion sensor and relay between the power transformer and cameras to conserve the lifespan on the cameras used indoors, this would only turn them on when there is motion even if the capture device is recording a black channel until motion occurs. With this I could also break a splice out of each relay that leads to a light board or buzzer, which would alert me when there is activity with a light or noise but there would be a slight 1 second delay so if someone ran past a camera really quick I would probably miss it. I really like these cameras though they are sharp and the lens I have (2.8-12mm) allows me to use these cameras anywhere and capture exactly the area I want; wide or zoomed in. I will make sure to buy manual focus variable wide/zoom auto iris lenses since two will be used pointing out windows.

I have this 4-line bundle cable that is 40-50ft long, never thought about it before but maybe I can save myself some $ and use this to connect another camera?? I would cut the heat shrink off and separate it into four 40-50ft runs that can be connected to make two 80-100ft cables by either soldering or if there is zero quality loss a simple double male BNC coupler?? The cables say TTL HI-FREQUENCY SERIES 1081359 and according to Google it's "30V 80 celcius Hi-Resolution 75 OHM Low Attenuation AV Coaxial" is this some good stuff or what? Can it be used outdoors in the winter time at 0 degree Fahrenheit? I am only using an LCD television as a monitor so I could easily use a male BNC to male composite on the end like this right?!

I'm assuming it must be RG-59A/U or 3C-2V....could even be 5C-2V but does not look that think. After doing some research it seems like you just need 75-ohm cable and the thickness and shielding depends on your application and budget or availability? To make this easy and cheap since I am adding additional cameras I think its wise to just run all RG-6 since it has thinker shielding than CCTV cable and I was thinking RG-7 (1.30mm) but the extra thickness is not worth it...if 0.50-0.80mm CCTV cable works then 1.0mm (RG-6) should be more then enough. The only thing I need to decide is double or quad shielding RG-6 Sound good? Opinions?

SO I bought a power supply off eBay but the dumb asshole left me with no manual and no Google results, there are no labels on it for the pinout but its 24VAC 830ma can anyone help?

Has nothing to do with it, just because I do not know a lot about AC does not mean **** I can school a lot of people on here with other electronics and hardware. I can build a Chrysler engine from the ground up, specialize in what you want....I am here to protect my automotive investments thank you.

I am aware of the difference between AC and DC but I have never really worked with AC like this before. All is good it is up and running thanks, this cheap little camera gets pretty warm quickly.

Okay that is what I wanted to know so it is + - + on the AC adapter? I took this picture of my actual unit next to a camera I am going to try which is 24vAC (they did not send me the adapter that was in the eBay photo) I am unsure how to go about wiring it to the 3 terminals on the camera though, I know the left screw is for the ground which is the middle screw on the AC adapter. The two right screws seem to be the same thing is this for a redundant power supply or daisy chaining the cameras together?

It's a guess

Oops wrong photo, this is the photo from the listing

I am shopping by specs, the fundamental hardware is here I plan to use aftermarket software obviously. I have BlueIris I am going to give one of these USB devices a shot, some of the highest quality VHS rips are through a DV bridge over a usb connection. Not even going to try the first one I am going to skip right over to that last $40 unit.

I have this Win7 micro tower with a 2.8Ghz low wattage Sempron 145, 2gb of ram, 220w power supply but no disk drive or hard drive either. If I get a SATA hard drive I think this might make a perfect compact multi-channel DVR, very versatile and expandable (USB only). I would have control over bitrate's and such it's just the only PCI banks are slim-line (one express x16 & x1) If I started with two or three of these would they work for my purpose? My only active cameras right now are D1 and I only have two (HQ) but if I expand I could get an HD USB interface to add channels; HD cams? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815100112 This entire DVR can also serve as a file server in my home since it will be online 24/7 within my network, I can drop the disc drive for another hard drive in that bay...then add a vent fan or two to the exterior of the case. I would disable the GPU to save power and access it via RDC.

That tower has come and gone but the idea is still alive. Has anyone ever tried either of these two cheap usb DVR's by any chance? The first one is only $10 but claims 4ch recording @ 30fps 720x480 MPEG4 but everyone claims to have problems on 64-bit Windows between the software and drivers, and only having 1 channel working correctly. The second is $40 and says 30fps 720x480 PER CHANNEL so that is a guarantee it is full D1 x4 I am unsure about the other. It also says H.264 so it states things the other does not as well as it supports Win7 x64 (I plan to use it on Windows 8 x64) I'm curious if I can use multiple of these with a USB hub (either one of the devices). I plan to use a 3rd party software for monitoring and capture anyway, possibly BlueIris I have a copy of V3.03

When shopping for lenses I just go by "CS" ? Are there multiple thread sizes within a CS style lens? I see a "1/3" on my lens does that mean I need a CS lens with a 1/3" thread??

I have been thinking about just getting a capture card, deff a future possibility. What about this route...I only have two inputs on my TV and the other is an RGB so I can't use it for another composite camera, does anyone think I can use an RGB-to-Svideo adapter and then pair that with an Svideo-to-composite adapter?? I have left all the settings on my camera to auto; left. I decided to play with them today but I do not know what "R" & "B" stands for? I made sure the zoom was all the way out but I really think the iris adjustment is not functioning correctly. When I set the toggle to IRIS and push up or down it does nothing, during the peak of the day the light areas are over exposed and during dusk the picture is very crisp and well lit so the iris must be stuck slightly over exposed which is better then slightly under exposed. Any clue if this camera works with IR flood lights? IR CCD?