GrouchoBoucho

If you have existing coaxial runs, SDI is the way to go. assuming your old cable isn't crappy or damaged... and assuming it's actual rg59/rg6 coax rather than the little thin all-in-one bundle that came with your old costco kit.

it's probably because the bnc out is 640x480 composite video, which your tv is then up-scaling to its own resolution, and stretching to fill the screen. this is to be expected.

any m12-type lens should work, but do yourself a favor and get real cameras.

no.

^op is in canada

hahahahahahahahaahahahahahahahaha

yes it is, it's just not as noticeable. if you had a high enough resolution camera and you zoomed into the image digitally, you would see it as well. http://lmgtfy.com/?q=heat+ripples

yes you can. the 3384 lets you toggle modes based on a number of triggers, including schedules, and external inputs. the only thing it doesn't do is trigger based on light level... at least, not directly. it *will* let you toggle when the camera switches between day and night (icr) modes; however, in one particular situation, i found this a bit tricky, because the camera would switch to night/b&w/icr-out, then the lightfinder would kick in, the picture would get brighter, and it would then switch back to day/color/icr-in, which in turn would trigger the switch back to wdr, at which point the image would get dark enough again to initiate the switch back to night mode... and on it would go, all night or until the ugly lights came up. i could have tweaked exposure levels to avoid this, i'm sure, but i found it just as easy to program a schedule into the camera (you don't have to do it through a url). i have a dozen or so of these in a restaurant/lounge using wdr in the day and lightfinder at night (when the lights dim down), and they're spectacular.

rg6 and rg59 are both 75 ohm impedance and fine for cctv. crimp-on f connectors and an f-to-bnc adapter will also work fine. and yes, i know this from experience. you *don't* want to use a 50-ohm cable like rg58, though. more important is that you use cable with solid copper center conductor (not copper-clad steel), and 95% or better braided copper shield (not foil-and-drain-wire).

are you sure it's the pir triggering the alerts and no video motion detection? since alerts are so frequent, have you tried simply watching the area out the window, to see if there's something happening that's setting off the pir? there is no "universal" fov for pir sensors; pirs have "lenses" as well, to control the fov. that's what that little white plastic bit is over the sensor.

this seller has no clue - i would avoid buying from him for that reason alone. i would also be surprised if you actually got a solid, reliable video feed over that 300m.

buy an 8-channel dvr - problem solved.

okay, the next step there is, you need to either add nvr software to it, or you need cameras that can write directly to network storage.

when you say "each building has a separate super speed internet connection", keep in mind that the *upstream* speed is as important as the downstream, because the each building's cameras have to be able to *send* the data out. a typical high-speed internet connection may be 50mbps down, but under 5mbps up... a single 2mp/1080p camera can easily eat up to 8mbps; that camera would saturate the outgoing connection all by itself. remember that internet providers usually have a maximum amount you can transfer per month, too. 8mbps is 480mbit *per minute*... 28.8gbit per hour... over 690gbit or 86gbytes per day. if your service has a 500gb/month cap, you could potentially hit that in less than six days. with *one camera*.

"up to 100m" yeah... riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight