jakesoundels

Not sure if cold played a role this morning; it was only -4F but one of my LTS CMIP 3032s dropped the network connection. It is connected to a Linksys 8 port POE, all other cams connected to this switch are working. So I took it off the house and brought it to the switch, plugged it in and the IR light came on to indicate it is booting up only there is no network connection. Each port on the linksys switch has a green light for power and blinking orange light for 10/100 active connections. All other cams have both lights but this one only has the green. I then took it off the POE and powered it with 12 VDC and plugged the cam into a non POE switch and nothing - no lights for that jack. There was power as indicated by the IR light but still no connection. This cam has a third cord with a button connected to the power/female RJ45 cords. Tried unplugging cam, pressing button, plugging cam back in and hold button for 30 seconds; still no connection and SADP Tool is not seeing it.Not sure what else to do. Anyone else out there experience this with a LTS or Hikvision?

No switches needed. Each pair from the cable goes to each camera. In your case you would use one balun (from the second link I sent) at the camera and another at the DVR end. Place that same pair used at the camera into the balun at the DVR and plug it into that. Keep in mind this does split up the Cat5 so you would not be able to use it for an ethernet (RJ45) connection. In other words, since you have analog cams and Cat5 already installed you would have to use the baluns unless you run another wire (if needed for networking in the garage). But, yes, at that distance you should have no problem sending the video signal through the balun and down the Cat5. The first link is a choice if you want to add cameras later. Basically up to 4 cams will go onto single baluns, run down the Cat5 to the head unit (connect via RJ45) then use bnc jumper cables to the DVR. This is a better diagram: http://www.easterncctv.com/accessories/ev04p-vps.htm

Unless I am thinking too simply here all you would need is a balun at each end. As long as you have 2 pairs (one for each camera) you will be good to go. You may have to power the cameras locally though since, it seems, you have other devices connected to the Cat5. Cat5 can support up to 4 cameras on a single run asl long as they are powered from another wire. If all you have is the two cameras the other 2 pairs on the wire can be used for power. Here are some products that may help: http://www.securitystoreusa.com/Passive-Video-Balun-p/ev04p-vps.htm This is for up to 4 cameras over one cat 5 back to the DVR http://www.securitystoreusa.com/Passive-Video-Balun-p/ev01p-vp.htm These are individual baluns that have power capability, if needed someday

I have a 16 Ch 3xLogic hybrid which allows me to slowly migrate to all IP over time. I got the system in April along with 1 3xLogic MP cam and 2 Vivoteks with no problems at all. In fact the Vigil system from 3x supports a whole list of IP cams. Other posters on here will support products they have used so this is just my opinion; gather up all the information, ask questions and you will get the best equipment for your budget.

I've had regular Cat5 running up the side of my house - getto fab style - from DVR to router for the last 5 years. No problems whatsoever. I put it in before knew about drip loops and more finer points of installing wire. Still going strong despite it running up the south side (full sun) side of the house.

I always worry about those freak storms when the rain blows sideways - moisture is bound to get to the balun. for me, its back box or junction box all the way.

You are very limited by the budget. Any IR worth buying would be at least $600. Check out shockwave199's video on the Dahua PTZ - its not the cheapest thing though and that one is on the lower end but its good stuff

Read the thread and it seems like the set up is ok at best. I'm looking for something a little better. I would want to add cameras such as PZT cameras and I'm not sure how that would go with that costco set up. So from what I understand, there can be a good set up as far as cameras go, but if the dvr is low quality, it will make that whole system low quality? Remember, PTZ require's an operator to swing it around and zoom in. Unless someone is at the controls 24/7 it may be difficult to catch wrongdoing when it happens. For your budget it may be better to go with something like a pro line dahua and quality cameras. I use the CNB VBM 24VF and have no complaints for their use at my home. Make sure you run Cat5 so that you can upgrade to IP later. The other option is the Dahua IP cameras - there are some really good reviews on it especially from buellwinkle.

Could be a corrupt file/program. What DVR are you using? Any problems on live view at the DVR?

What IP are you using to access it remotely? Do you have a Static or Dynamic ip address? If dynamic did you set up a dynamic dns service? If not this topic, and how to set it up, is well covered on this forum.

If you go with dyndns there are a few loop-holes to jump through for a free account: http://www.dyncommunity.com/questions/21580/from-dyn-what-happened-to-free-accounts.html

I'm sure that will help but, to tell you the truth, there is nothing better than motion flood lights. You don't need anything too bright - 75W would be plenty. Installing them would be cheaper as well!

Well, this is just a W.A.G. but I wonder if the camera is positioned too high and the IR does not make a difference. Again, I'm not sure but I bet buellwinkle will be able to weigh in.

I think a snapshot may help. Off the top of my head...do the IRs come on? Is so how is power at the cam when on? How are you powering it? Did you play with the shutter speed at night to see if that makes a difference? Not that I would be able to help if these questions are answered but, at least, we can get the ball rolling!

I'd go with new cameras and DVR. In the foyer you may need a WDR (wide dynamic range) camera like the Panasonic super dynamic 3 line up or adjust another newer camera more to the left to avoid the light from the door. A good camera, with out WDR, is CNB VCM 24VF If you are looking for god budget DVRs look for Dahua - well covered on this forum. I have one and have no complaints

It still depends on the lens. 4 MP will give you better detail than the 2 thereby capturing more detail roughly within the same FOV as the 2 MP (considering you are comparing shots from the same type of camera/lens) For a residential setting I'll bet 2MP will be plenty. We have three 2MP cams at our agency and 13 analog. The MPs are plenty for capturing individual detail on humans/cars for eveidence. Should we go with a higher MP? Maybe. But, right now, we are getting more than enough detail on people constantly coming and going. Check out the MP images and demos thread http://www.cctvforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=11322&p=202439&hilit=mp+images#p202439. NetworkCameraCritic has some great residential 1.3 and 2.0 MP examples. If you'd like I can link you to live footage from our cams but I'd rather give the info in a private message for obvious reasons.

This will give you an idea of the different types. Basically you use one pair for video (I always use blue/white blue)and the the other two for power. Some guys leave the forth pair for a spare but you can use that for power as well. http://www.easterncctv.com/accessories/balun-p.htm

Check these out - I have one and have no complaints http://www.cctvforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=31620

You can use a wire tracer on one end and use the probe to see if you get a signal on one of the wires at the other end. You will be able to narrow down what wire goes where pretty quickly

Popular subject today. It is also well covered on this forum. http://www.cctvforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=32563

What public IP address do you use to access the DVR? Is it a static or dynamic IP? If dynamic you can either request a static IP from your ISP or obtain a free dynamic dns account from a service like NOip. If your DVR does not support the dynamic dns service you will then have to either update your ip address manually on the noip website or download their update software. Only problem with that is a computer has to be on all the time or regularly to update you internet ip. While at a remote computer you enter the dynamic dns address in the DVRs remote software or enter it in the web browser along with the internet port (8080 in my case). Here, in the states, I also open up port 8080 and forward to the DVR's IP to that as well.

I'm thinking the Dahua 1.3 MP for $200 or the CNB VBM 24 VF analog camera. The CNB has a nice wide FOV and would be a decent choice for that area. Seems like you're going to need an analog card on the PC though. If you keep the light on I'd go for the Dahua

Well, unless you want to go with IP, which has it limits (with exceptions) at night, I'd go with the CNB above.

Nope! I have 12VDC running over 18/2 for a few years not and no problems with the CNBs

You will really want to get a stand alone DVR because you will need a video card for your computer and they are not as reliable as a stand alone or dedicated PC. This is a good place to start for inexpensive DVRs and cameras http://www.cctvforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=31620&hilit=dahua+dvrs. I have one at my home and have no complaints - they are inexpensive too! How is the lighting near the van? Some of us here, including myself, use the CNB VCM 24 VF camera and feel it is solid equipment. If the veri-focal lens is zoomed in on the camera there is a good chance you will get some detail at 20m. But these cameras need light - not a lot but some street light or motion light is helpful. A lot of us here use Cat5 with baluns at the camera and DVR. It is easier to work with and allows for video and power. It also allows upgrades to IP down the line. Don't forget about power for the cameras and connectors if using RG-59 Siamese. Stay away from the box stores