justincameras

What specific manufacturers are you cussing?

Holy crap this thread is nuts. I haven't read through the whole thing but unless you are a terrorist and MI5 has your number...quit the DIY stuff and call a professional CCTV company to check your system.

It's a ferrite magnet you snap on the power, CAT5, wires. It is supposed to "filter" noise from unwanted induced power. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103222

Forget the DVR. Get some cameras that are night vision switching IR with SD cards at the cameras. No DVR to mess with. Each camera has a static IP address you can access with a passord. Cameras, cables,(CAT5e),POE injector, or power supply. Some are wireless capable to a wireless hub. I just read $100 limit on DVR. You get what you pay for. Buy a wildlife camera and nail it to a tree.

FM Systems does. http://www.fmsystems-inc.com/cw/Details.cfm?ProdID=257&category=16

Having worked for a nation wide company and an international company for Fortune 100 companies, I am very biased. I have installed million dollar American Dynamics systems over fiber optics with matrixes code translators and VCR's. I have run cables in stop n robs for crapcams. I am in full agreement with Scotty, "The more they overthink the plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the drain." Big systems equal big problems. Bosch sold a system to a local hospital using a local rep to install it. When it wouldn't work according to the Bosch rep they turned to me because we had just installed their access control. I tried for two weeks 8 hours per day finding more and more programming, installation, wiring, wrong and fixing as I go. I was on the phone with tech support so much I had come to know all of their names, wives names and pets names. Of course tech support was always telling me to upgrade this or that usually screwing up the component I was upgrading. The "rep" had sold them an obsolete computer tape drive backup for archiving. I had a 14 step instruction to go by from the hospital to display recorded video. Are you kidding me? This "system" never worked the day they installed it. I finally threw up my hands and asked Bosch to put together a system just like this one and see if they could get the system to work. I went to lunch and a service call and went back to the hospital. I called tech support and was told, "We can't get it to work either." I told the chief of security and the head of operations this statement in a meeting and later said the same thing in a deposition. Now the good. A few years ago our company installed an access control, burg alarm and 200 Stardot 1.3's and a 64 Terabyte NVR in a gold and silver depository which was the federal reserve bank building. Two floors, 4 vaults, gun range, bullet proof command center, the works. This one had it's hiccups but is the best and easiest I have ever done. The building already had analog cameras and was adding to and replacing the NICEVISION system with Exaqvision. If you want I can post some images. We were featured in a national trade magazine because of this project.

Try one of these. Radioshack about $10 Also, is her driveway light flourescent? These are 12 volt power's nightmare.

Back in the 90's when we used the PT unit you bought, wires were run to a J Box provided by the manufacturer. These J boxes had a pc board that was addressed. It had a wired port you brought your RS 485 wires into then individual relay outputs to the PT and motorized zoom. The zoom was ground, zoom in and zoom out so three wires were needed. What you need to find out is if the zoom controlling wires come from the camera, the PT unit, or a JBox you may need to purchase. How are you running your CAT5 /6 cable? I'm thinking you need some more parts, wiring. Has anyone been helping you in designing this?

I've seen these type poles where a drill can raise and lower the camera. No ladders, no lifts. http://www.altron.co.uk/highways_and_transport_sector_view.html Got your calculator? http://www.acmelingo.com/flagpoles/FP1001-07.pdf

Your resolution is only as good as your weakest link in the system.

Right, the dome is a little dirty. However you can see the big horizontal noise on the bottom and top. Any electrical sources near the camera's cable? Parallel A/C cable? To troubleshoot, the cheap choice is 24 volt power .

That looks more like reflections on the dome or lens. IR cameras suck when they turn to BW. The IR has limited range and true forensic detail cannot be achieved unless they happen to be walking 4 ft away from the camera. Widening the field of view as you have lessens detail.

Manual and installation guide. http://www.cloverusa.com/data/goodsImages/1297728703&&VDP1300_Manual.pdf First, before toning anything check with a volt ohm meter for power both AC and DC. Unplug all power to both the phone inside and the camera outside. Pencil and paper time or take photos and draw your existing wiring. Do not disconnect any wire from any wire or terminal before you correctly diagram what it goes to. That white four wire cable you have is standard POTS line. Normally, Green and Red (tip and ring) are a pair and Black and Yellow are a a pair. It is solid not stranded and will break easily. Check this first for breaks or bad connections. The hum or buzz sounds like interference from an AC source which could be from anywhere along the cables involved and the phone's power supply. As you well know the tone generator does not work on a pair that is connected. You have to separate the wires so they are not tied to anything. From there, it is the process of elimination. You may also have a phone, Ethernet, camera, alarm junction box of some sort. This may be the culprit too. Another possibility is an attic junction buried in insulation. Looking at the manual, it makes mention of using a coaxial cable if interference is encountered. If it has this capability, run a new coax. Have fun!

New guy here. I am assuming the building is low enough for you to effectively parapet mount the PTZ because you are considering it as a possibility. I just saw this thread and it looked familiar. I had a special folding mount made from steel for a PTZ on a building with a big round 2 foot radius edge moulding. Using a standard four bolt wall mount, I took it to a welding shop with the dimensions, which I cannot find. The shop welded up and painted a folding hinge mount that swung over that moulding when in use. It was secured by two 1/2 inch bolts when extended. It flipped back toward me for service. The bracket contained the wiring which was weather tight with fittings. Due to the extreme wind, it was made from 1/4 sheet steel with gussets. It was about 5 foot long total length including the wall mount and easy to flip. About $500 to the welding shop which included matching white electrostatic paint.