rory

the cost of any software licence is probably just integrated into the total cost, or is it that cheap? Like I said, "'The price of them' includes the software licenses that you'll be paying extra for if you build your own". Tru dat soljah

the cost of any software licence is probably just integrated into the total cost, or is it that cheap?

@ 400k upload will probably have to stream at cif or best vga.

What was it about? Please let us know

+1 Anyone that does alot of upgrade or service work surely has done alot of solid splicing in their time. Or dealing with electricians that run the cable to the wrong spot, or camera has to be moved for whatever reason and well client does not have endless funding.

its likely thin RCA type cable, thin braided wire. You could still join them using beanies or something else, done plenty in my time, but a DIY might not want to do that, and personally I prefer not to do it with that kind of cable for anyone other than myself (my personal cameras). Its not the easiest wire to work with, need to crimp them good, tape wont hold that well generally. You could cut the connectors off all together and join the wire back without connectors (of the connection is on the inside and cant bring it back out then wont have access to the BNC for adjustment anyway), or add the connectors back onto the camera cable once its pushed inside. Only reasoning for doing any of this is if you must have a small hole. Again not the best method. Think about maintenance or if you need to change or move the camera. And if the ground has no jacket will need to tape that up anyway. Also you would loose any warranty on the camera if you cut the cable, I normally only do that to old cameras I have, other than cutting only the power cable on new ones. Another option is to disconnect the camera cable from the camera board itself, but this will depend on the camera being used. Then push that out from inside. Again a DIY may not want to tackle this as it could damage the camera if not done right. But that end is normally very small. Another way is to use a half sized white cosmetic plastic gang box with a white cover. Or even a small metal gang box. That will at least make it easier to get to for adjusting with a service monitor and troubleshooting in the future if any problems arise. The box would just cover the hole in the wall.

I heard they have gone out of business. Unfortunately I had the server software for a client last summer but dont have it anymore. You could try their support phone numbers to see if anyone answers. Also if its an old board, they only have the new software. This will work but it is much heavier than the old software and if the PC is old it can cause it to be very slow or even crash. Although I know alot about Windows I had to have their tech at the time logon with VNC and make some changes, basically they installed some files on the 2nd partition, something that stopped it from Crashing - didnt ask questions, just wanted to get the job completed. What would I do if I were in your shoes? If its old then I would bite the bullet and chuck it and get a new card from a company that you know wont be going anywhere soon, or get a stand alone DVR which has as much features these days as something like Netpromax did. Also see this thread viewtopic.php?f=1&t=23831

+10

dont know how others do it but its typically drill the hole, fish the snake as far as you can closest to the attic hole, then go up and attach the cable to the snake, then pull the wire to the hole. Best with 2 people.

with most small homes you should be able to just drill a hole in the eave and push the snake close to the center of the attic and pull the wire from there, at least when I used to do 2 homes a day installing alarms in most cases it wasnt always that bad, but it doesnt seem to be that easy anymore, seems CCTV clients have all the messed up homes, 2 storey, concrete, etc makes it even more difficult. Or get someone small to throw up in the attic while you push the snake.

yes we have to adjust the shutter for faster movements ... but regular stuff should be fine. Also price difference is huge between that P1344 and say a CNB i havent had time to play with it as never had the need to catch traffic but installed a camera on the side of a building not too long ago which overlooks a road, the client is only recording the sidewalk though, not concerned about traffic which is masked out anyway so I didnt adjust anything for that, CNB VCM-24VF on Dahua DVR recording @ 7ps each. If anything the blur is really noticeable the closer the vehicle gets to the camera, cars further away seem to be okay in general. Converted to MP4 for youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3S-e12FmVAk

investigate the attic thoroughly prior to quoting labour. You might wish you had when you come across a house where there are split attics from added extensions to the building and the owners dont even mention it, or block that goes right to the roof stopping any attempt at snaking from the eave, as well as home owners belongings and what not that might be in the attic blocking the way. Ha, that was the last residential attic I was in (few weeks ago), now Im outsourcing that part of the job If its full of fiberglass insulation might also be a good idea to wear a mask. Dont forget the nails also, when I spent a few years installing alarms I got 2 nails to the head jumping up through an attic hole. And knee pads help as well. Ofcourse the most common tool is a snake.

AES is EI. we have the choice of only AI or EI in most cases.

disable the dipmap thing. as mentioned use the router to update a dyndns.com account, and set Geo with a static local IP etc and forward to that in the router.

I doubt it's the 243, since I have a CNB BBM24F on a 241S at the moment does the same thing with fast moving objects (squirrel jumping for example). Walking around type speed they are all fine. I'm not using DSS or Sens up normally. By the 241S you still mean an IP encoder? If so then that is your issue, test it direct to a monitor. Yes fast moving cars will be a little blur but you can adjust the shutter and the compensate the gamma etc for that application if needed.

thanks but ill stay clear of the really cheap ones (for now), I cant afford to send them back when they dont perform or dont work properly. besides not everyone is paying what you pay for it, and then surely you mark it up for the client? me too.

In this case I've got the 0610 on an Axis 243 encoder. Maybe thats causing the problem? If you test it direct into a monitor, without Sens up or DSS or anything like that, how is it? Have you also tested this with other cameras like the CNB?

Are you testing this direct to a monitor or going through a DVR or IP encoder?

yeah AFAIK basically the auto iris control in a camera uses a referenced level to mechanically move the Iris on the DC or Video lens back and forth as the light level changes. Electronic iris adjusts the level digitally only. If you look at the AI on a Dome or Bullet TDN lens, it is actually built into the same mechanism as the IR cut filter, you can watch the iris open and close as you adjust the Iris level on the camera, or as the light level changes. I took the iris out one time to remove the IR Cut Filter .. that didnt go well .. the parts used are just little pieces of paper like material and the fragile thin metal holder bends easily .. camera still worked great at night but with the Iris sticking on that metal piece when it went to close for the day time, couldnt see anything but whiteout Manually releasing it only helped until it moved again the next day

I get that part, but here's what I'm unknown on: The camera has auto-iris will will reduce the amount of light, thus affecting the shutter speed (camera can also act to use the electronic shutter, and will slow it down as there is less light). Which one wins? Does the auto-iris reduce light to the point where the shutter is set the slowest speed, which seems counter-productive to capturing moving objects? Or is the camera smart enough to reduce it somewhat using the auto-iris, still allowing the shutter speed to remain high? What camera are you talking about? Movement is still fluid under low light unless you manually adjust the shutter or use DSS. eg. Auto, real time video even in this low light now adjustments to shutter manually: it gets slower and slower as it gets brighter:

What you talking bout chief? Near decent baluns average $20 each and thats wholesale in America .. so thats still $40 per run plus everything else .. also according to you i get RG59 Siamese cheaper here than in Canada ..

Not here, time as we add in the cost of baluns its cheaper to use RG59 Siamese. Example 4 camera job, I get 400' RG59 Siamese and 8 BNCs for say $130 locally, thats $32 per run approx. If I used baluns they would be approx $50 for 2 (eg. $25 each landed minus markup), so that would be $200 just for the baluns, plus the 400' Cat5. Guess it really depends what price one gets their cable and connectors for and what the client needs.

RG59 18/2 Siamese .... unless running alot of long runs to the same areas, or might replace with IP cameras in the near future. Cat5 is also nice with cameras with RS485 control.

are you using the VGA out from the DVR to a cheap PC LCD? If so alot of contrast is common also with some stand alones.

Vistas in the UK, mostly rebadged stuff even had some rebadged GE/Kalatel products back in the day.