rory

Ive never seen it. In fact only time ive seen blur is when I tested a camera with slow shutter last summer, and a CNB dome on a street I put in a couple months back .. only the cars though and only over 30mph or so. Ive been using analog cameras since around 2001.

The DFL-20s wont see anything in the dark! The DBM-24VD sees as much as the DFL-20S will. Still sounds like you need Infrared if as you said there is no light ... which would be the LBM-20S or LMB-24VF ... or even one of the VB monalisa IR domes. Oh the names CNB give these cameras ... LOL ..

Paint Shop Pro .. Enhance Photo .. Deinterlace. I never even knew it existed until the other day when on another thread someone posted a snapshot from an interlaced video clip - and it worked.

by the way I was meaning to do this anyway, I will email the CNB tech Im dealing with and ask the differences between the various IR domes. I want to add at least 2-4 of them to my catalog .. as with other potential users I am not 100% certain of the differences, especially between the IR Turret domes, or more importantly some of their specs say 6mm while others say 3.8mm ... im thinking the old non Monalisa ones were 6mm .. and its just a typo in their spec sheet for the monalisas. Also though of no use in your case, I need to know their IP rating or at least if they are outdoor rated - most of their cert sheets are missing from their website. Now that ive seen the price of their PTZs I feel obliged to add a couple of those also - my catalog is mostly just using their cheapest cameras, as its still a step up from the other couple budget lower resolution cameras I sell as a kit to clients. BTW I would be quoting the 12VDC IR Turret domes as they are well easier to install, can adjust once mounted without removing any cover, plus these lower end jobs are all 12VDC. Cant sell everything they have, least not down here! Also I test every camera I sell or install .. so cant sell too many for that reason also. Their dual voltage IR domes, well I guess will keep those on the back burner for the higher end clients, or longer distances.

Ive never seen blur from a person walking. Most likely either your analog camera has the shutter speed slowed down or its something to with the IP/digital capture device. Deinterlacing that image does nothing.

was this taken over the network? reason I ask is the size is much larger than the size the DVR records at. Also that would explain the poor quality of this image. Also lets look at it closer, other than it has some artifacts and is a little blury, probably could still use a better focus - how did you focus it? The person in the left edge of the image - the light could be causing a little blur, also with wider views the edges will have a little blur at least on one side even at optimum focus (aspherical lens will get rid of this, but these domes dont have that, need a box camera in that case), if not focused 100% then will experience even more blur on both edges. Also if focused in full light, even though these are IR Corrected lenses they seem to still experience some focus shift, so I would suggest focusing it in low light (not dark). BTW wont get focus shift if using a fixed lens camera. This view is not a good one to use to focus, the center should always be the sharpest, but either way this is a big wide view and objects are really too far away. Perhaps try this, take a chair, and about center of the image from top to bottom place one there, then one on the very left and one on the very right edges. Focus on the center then focus on the other 2 chairs .. make sure the center chair stays in focus. This can take a few tries. First though get that light out of the view, the one where he is sitting. I would also dim the kitchen light and just leave on one light behind the camera somewhere. These lenses should be factory backfocused so no need to worry about that. Also you need something better to view it on, such as a simple 13" TV, or better yet a CCTV CRT Monitor, plug the camera direct into that - if focusing on a DVD player or any kind of LCD it just wont always be 100%, same with over the network which is even more difficult. There are even focus meters that help with this, cant say how well they work yet though, I have one on order.

Sounds like some nice change to be made .. though not sure about the whole working in that cold snow thing

The LMB-24VF is 0.1 Lux (Color), 0.01 Lux (B/W), 0 Lux with IR Meant for indoor with lighting and works under very low lighting, and has the IR for pitch dark. It has a removable IR cut filter for the dark and it is more sensitive than the ones with the fixed IR cut filter. DBM-24VD is 0.1 Lux (Color), 0.05 Lux (B/W) This is meant for indoor and lighting, performs better than other non color cameras in low light. Has a fixed IR cut filter so colors are natural and not washed out. It is not a True day night camera. The DBM-24VF is more likely the same chipset as the LMB-24VF, and the VCM and VBM-24VF. It also has the Removable IR Cut filter so it is more sensitive in low light. I dont go by their listed lux levels anymore though as its all over the place. It is likely faceplate in the case of the 0.005. However the DBM-24VF still needs light, without it, it will just pixelize more or see nothing. Since you have no light at night and its indoors, you are probably better off with the LMB-24VF. That said you could still use the LBM-20S and just use a 12vdc plug in adapter. It is max 360ma current so 4 of them would need at least a 1.5ma or better yet a 2amp. That camera is almost half the cost of the LMB-24VF- though has a wide angle lens so cant manually zoom it in during the install. The nice thing about them though, if they are similar to the non IR monalisa DFL-20s, is that they come with a focused fixed lens - Ive used alot of the DFL-20s and never had to focus them yet. Ofcourse I havent used the DBM-24VD, DBM-24VF, LMB-24VF, or LMB-20s, so this is all just theory based on what I have used from them and what their tech support has told me about the DBM-24VD.

their 24VAC cameras normally are a bit more. The LBM-24VF is a Monalisa also, so should be an IR Replacement for the one you have now, but also has a Removable IR Cut filter while the other one is a Fixed IR cut filter, also making the price go up.

Sharpness is not focus, also sharpness should be at max, 20. Also what DVR are you using and whats the encoding/compression at?

Yeah as the IR is inside the dome so could cause light to bounce back on the lens, not all the time but can happen. Yeah most turret domes are only 12VDC .. I mean you can try the other one, indoors probably will be fine. I havent used it so cant say for certain. Most of our problems are when they are used outdoors and they get dirty and then the IR hits that and it bounces back onto the lens. If you do try it PLEASE let us know how it works out, costs me 3 times the price to try it out .. you will be helping us Though the LBM-20S might suffice for indoors.

for $70 a month including basic cable TV we get around 384 upload

We use radio down here instead of phone in special cases. Our cellular network sucks really, and this way we dont have to depend on the Telco.

I dont like domes with the IR inside the dome, maybe check the LPL-20S or similar: From the VB series http://www.cnbusa.com/en/html/product/product_list.php?maxx=1&midx=256

Make sure sharpness is turned to max in the OSD and that the camera is focused properly.

How high is the camera going to be mounted? Also when you say the daytime image is not good how do you mean?

i would probably lean towards Axis if I had the choice, just because they have such great APIs and I love their streaming video technology. I have no idea what their video management software is like though.

or mount everything yourself but pay someone to just come and do the final hookup and program?

With all due respect, if you understood how to use a guide number, you would know this is BS. Best, Christopher How is that BS? They are saying that due to the amount of different cameras in the field, they cannot tell you exactly how their product will perform, thats all - eg. there are many variations of an exview chip and they all perform different. No I dont know photography "terms" as that does not pay my bills. I do however know F stops and the value of a 1.0 over a 1.4 in low light apps, and how useless slow shutter is in our industry. But as long as we are selling CCTV cameras then it is more important to know the product one sells and how it works in the real world and not on paper or how one thinks it should work.

Ill repeat what manufacturers have told me in the past, the reason why they dont list everything is that it can differ from one installation to the next, and they are saving themself from any liability. Even with Extreme they use to give distances but made note they were based on infrared optimized cameras, specifically the ones they sell, and it can differ with other cameras. DVR manufacturers say they dont provide demos as it will differ depending on cameras used, internet connection, compression, settings etc.

I wasnt talking about cameras with built in storage. Ofcourse a lock box is just to prevent someone from stealing/accessing it which is what I replied to. Anyway I would expect the internet to drop everyday, but not a fire or someone stealing the DVR which is a rare occurance - seen 1 DVR stolen in the ghetto in 10 years and that was in a broad daylight armed robbery (Wasnt my client).

An $80 lockbox could help "prevent" that but just the same as they could steal the DVR/NVR they could cut the power or the internet or shoot the camera with a paint gun or even simpler just wear a mask. But the main thing was that Internet does drop and that is common and if there was no local storage at all then .. whoops.

even the new IDEs still just write around 30mbs while the new Satas write about 130 and the old (couple years) around 55. GB switch would mean 1000 so even with a regular one you should be able to get 90?

Also when the Internet drops or goes down, wont get any recorded video - could miss those important incidents. Its nice to offer it as an added service, but depending on it alone .. i dont know.

as for 850 vs 950 nm .. a stronger filter means less light gets through.