rory

I dont know why, but white LEDs suck compared to Infrared LEDs. The light "looks" like its there somewhat to the human eye, and its bright and painful to our eyes, but the cameras just dont like it as much, even in BW mode. The main reasons to use visible light would be you can use ANY camera color OR bw cheap OR expensive and its added security. Normally get a better image also, but not with White LEDs. I used the Fusion 50 and 100 from Raymax and used Extreme's Infrared for years prior, both at the same location. My cheap dusk to dawn NON LED puts out a ton of light though, draws more current.

If you want a DIY type alarm system that is good also check out Powermax by visonic. Easy to install and program and not bad at all - my alarm background is I installed and serviced Ademco (Honeywell) for 6 years and still maintain some for the past 10 years.

actually, though they could have put it in plainer english, what they are saying (i think) is that instead of diminishing light over the distance of the scene, which is the norm, it is even light until the end of the scene. How true is it though.. i dunno .. i cant really see how strong the light is in the following image at 200' away from the camera (the distance to the gate). I do recall my eyes hurting at the gate though but could have just been mosquitos

http://www.digital-photography-school.com/reversing-the-inverse-square-law

Yes, there are also many for facial recognition etc .. software developers normally use these to cut down on the time it takes to roll their software out and so they can concentrate on what they do best and leave the other part up to others that have already done that part. here are a couple (not free) http://www.anpr.net/anpr_09/anpr_sw_development.html http://www.dtksoft.com/dtkanpr.php http://www.warelogic.com/

Huh?? Its a general term used for Automatic Number Plate Recognition Software. I normally call it LPR though.

Yeah that camera needs light, I think it has a fixed IR cut filter also (at least going by a reply from CNB tech support - which is what I want it for) so wouldnt pick up IR if thats the case. Would need to replace with a camera with IR - CNB also have those, or you can pretty much use any cheap low res turret IR dome. And yes I hate running wire also .. i have an electrician on call now though to do the difficult runs for me .. so I can go do other things, quotes, other installs, testing, etc. I dont know about the blackberry thing, but here is a list of the CNB software, they mention Iphone and Android for the HDx Series DVRs: http://download.cnbnewsletter.com/support/prdpds_en.php I do like their CMS software, its a quick GUI, I used it for another DVR brand which is by the same manufacturer that makes the CNB ones - Indigo - CNB made their own custom version but the boards are basically the same.

Yes was a popular IR back in 2003 and one of the few really powerful ones

So its just really fast Cable Internet?

is U-verse satellite?

buy a wireless access point?

catching spouses cheating?

its discontinued now: http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=00592709156127568620

So you charge 1 hour service for a 130 camera install?

1 account = 1 IP address ... not the number of ports you connect over. at least I dont know of any restrictions and never seen them

dont know if they changed it but the ones i used, cant go within 3 feet of it when it is on or you get burned and go blind, literally. All I know is the ones I used blasted the area with a ton of light which is why it was considered a flood .. and oh yeah they cost a fortune (not so much now compared to pricing of raymax).

Yeah depends on the cameras. Find out how much amps they draw .. then use a power supply that can handle that. Eg. if the cameras each consume 300ma with IR on, then make sure its at least a 1.5a power supply.

Ive used a filter in the past was a long time ago so cant answer any questions about it but here is a thread: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3492&p=31276&hilit=polarizer#p31276 and here was the filter I used http://www.tiffen.com/displayproduct.html?tablename=filters&itemnum=52CP

Thats one way to look at it. But in most cases its the hard drive that goes, or the power supply with PC DVRs. AS mentioned in a previous post you could use RAID, dont have to use IP cameras to get that feature but would need to be a PC DVR generally. Using a Voltage Regulator such as one from the APC Line will also aid in protecting the hardware from failure. One more valid reason to split up the DVRs is to get faster frame rates. But in most cases 2x16 channels will suffice.

In your case it is the better solution ... and yep POE is easier.

Just to clarify for others reading: This is similar for regular cameras also, using RG59 Siamese (1 cable) and a DVR (remote viewing). Though not exactly the same.

Like Soundy said, should have a partition just for the OS. Keep that anywhere from 20-40GB. Disable Hibernation. Disable System Restore. Disable the Recycle Bin on the VIDEO partition. Make the Recycle Bin on the OS Partition 1% only. Make the Page file a fixed size. Download and install Windows CleanUp! And run that (not in demo mode) Download and run CCleaner. Either way with 20-40GB your OS partition should not fill up unless you save a ton of backups to it. Default Windows XP Install is approx 700MB, plus the Page File. 3 weeks of video is good for that size drive, I get less with larger, depends on the location. Other things you can do as mentioned is drop the frame rates on lower priority cameras. If you are already set to 320x240 you are already recording everything in low resolution (and hence 3 weeks compared to say 7-14 days), if you are recording in 720x480 drop it top 640x480 and that will give you much longer recording and still be near D1, smaller video size (eg. 80MB compared to 200MB). You could also sacrifice some video quality by setting the compression to Geo H.264 or .ASP instead of Geo MPeg4, which will also cause the file size to be smaller, longer recording.

Yep, although can generally get a little better image with the box cameras if using an Aspherical lens and lower F stop. I personally would go with the RG59 Siamese, but its up to you. If its a difficult run and you think you might upgrade to IP cameras in the future then maybe run the cat5, or both. They have Coax to IP converters also though. I get RG59 siamese very cheap though so unless its a really long run that needs active transmission or going from one building to the next .. i stick to RG59 siamese. But its up to you. Use 24VAC, get decent 24VAC Altronix Fused Power supplies for less than 12VDC and with more amps. And you can run 24VAC a longer distance. Just use 12VDC if its a cheap install and short runs (eg. 150 and less).

Can see the difference that F:1.0 lens makes .. thanks Was that a Tamron or another brand? One thing Id like to test is a CNB Monalisa dome at F:1.4 vs. a Monalisa Box with a F:1.0 lens ..

at over $700 dealer price, Id pull one of my last good teeth before wasting money on one of those white LEDs again.