rory

I think you guys are confusing CCTV and IP cameras. Ive NEVER used Slow shutter and ALL my jobs for the past 10 years have been low light and pitch dark apps.

all that and I managed to guess the password in the end .. thanks though yeah I found the user password in some code i was messing with a year ago when testing the same DVR with a customized activeX control .. so that led me to guessing the superuser password .. put them all to defaults now .. its up to the client to make new ones if they want so they cant blame me next time I upgraded the firmware also though I dont see any changes.. ..

Most True Day Night bullets I have used generally give a good image, the internal IR should be approx 30 degrees and most will go out to at least 50', ofcourse in many instances seperate IR will help alot. But there is always a lemon from some brand here and there as well and then there are the incorrect specs pushed from rebadged cameras. It just has to have the right specs. Color IR cameras, which "some" call Day Night Cameras, will be where you will definitely have issues. In fact I spoke with a sales guy on the phone for a client the other day, he wasnt sure what cameras he had in stock so I told him just pick a True Day Night bullet following the same specs as the CNB bullet I originally wanted, and it MUST have an IR Cut Filter. Then he quotes the client a Color IR 1/4 " Bullet for crying out loud, and it even cost more!! I didnt even think that he would pick a 1/4" and it doesnt even say CCD!! Even the sales guys now adays just dont know what they are selling .. it really makes me mad sometimes. On that note check out CNB they have some decent TRUE day night bullets, stay away from their DSS models thats all. You really cannot depend on sales guys alone these days, you have to check out the specs and stuff as well. CNB was one that impressed me though, and at a much lower cost. Im sure there are others out there also. Even Eclipse's True Day Night bullet is decent as I have used them for years as well. USAG is pushing some now also, just havent used them yet. BTW Domes with Integrated IR are usually crap as far as IR goes, but bullets are totally different "in most cases". Nah, Ive used many Day Night bullets that give as good or a better image that that in a pitch dark setting. Now adays they ARE rare though, seems the manufacturers are just pushing out crap on us to save money now, and there are so many guys selling junk that dont even know its junk. Problem with just about all Bullets, and most domes, they just cant handle light that great, especially direct glare from bright sources. I dont think the location in the image above has that problem though. But thats where the WDR will come in.

Hi Tom Yes tried the battery but that didnt work. Im actually in the middle of trying firmware flash using the USB as I dont have the password to be able to use the flash software. Only thing is they dont have a download for the USB firmware for that DVR, Im using USB_ISP file for the MOB though so far it doesnt work .. going to wipe the jump drive then place only those 2 files on and see what happens.

Tell you what, if you ever get hold of anyone from Avermedia please have them contact me. Im trying to find their method to reset an EB1304NET, still have an open ticket on their support site.

True .. i wouldnt mind snow right now though .. its like summer will never end its sooo hot!!

all Day Night cameras (bullets included) are supposed to look at least as good as that second image, there is nothing special about it, except it was done correctly

How would that help? Or does snow look better with a slower shutter? Maybe they just have day night cameras? Maybe they have exview B/W with SDNR? Or maybe they are using a 1/2" EM-CCD or Thermal? Many other alternatives to slow shutter. Slow shutter = slow video. Eg. DSS was introduced as a cheap method of obtaining low light video, instead of using the right cameras which cost more money.

Depends on the application. Snow and weather conditions at a ski resort are one such example. Best, Christopher How does that work?

i've never needed it. Shutter speed is not something I would ever have a need to manually adjust, and if I need lower light just buy the right camera the first time. Other things sure, Ive used box cameras for a decade. I mean one could argue that $150 Zoom cameras have all those settings also, those settings alone dont make it a better camera.

Um, no it wont work with Windows 98 Totally different OS and no driver for the card (or pretty much anything else these days)

Slow Shutter speed is USELESS for CCTV.

Not that it should matter so much in this instance, given the cameras you are using, but Eclipse power supplies arent the best. Ive used alot of them, and also had to replace alot of them with better brands like Altronics, though mostly due to low amp specs. I normally get the fused power supplies though. I still use the eclipse power supplies though for the budget jobs.

yeah I just checked the menu setup didnt realise that it was there, typically only find that in Zoom CCTV cameras. Not something one wants to use for CCTV anyway.

Cool. Testing is fun hey (too many wasps outside for me these days though) and you guys get everything so cheap over there in America. @cglaeser doubtful that the shutter is manually adjustable on either camera. @ alpine typically a box camera will be even better and a lower cost. also for what its worth LTC cameras are typically the rock bottom of cameras, just saying

Which do you think is the best for a single camera indoor app? This is not for a low light app. Thanks.

NOTE: this is my first time with 8.3 Installed for a friend on a decent Dual Core Intel PC everything up to spec. Dont have the DVR with me, did it there at his location so no time to do any real testing or troubleshooting. The card is plugged into the PCI-e X1 slot and is using power from the power supply, using the standard IDE power connector. The Audio extension board is also connected though no pigtails are attached to that. Anyway, found these 2 issues that maybe someone else has had and knows the solution to: 1-No cameras connected, not even the pigtails, but in View Log there is some kind of noise being recorded in what looks like a motion event. No Mic is connected, audio IS enabled by default. A couple times in live view I saw some noise come across the non existent video also. 2-In View log, although all 16 cameras are enabled in the system, multiview is not showing up for playback view, just single view and thumbnail. 3-He wants an antivirus though personally I never had issues without due to it being locked right down, so running AVG anyway - maybe he is going to browse the web who knows, I dont control him, I can only suggest against it Geo crashed at least once, illegal operation deal, so wondering if anyone else had issues running AVG with Geo? Thats it for now. Other then that I hate 8.3 First time I have ever seen this on a GeoVision system. As mentioned everything is setup as previous systems. Only difference is it is XP SP3 and it has AVG. (i normally just use SP2). Ofcourse the Motherboard is newer but its basically just an upgrade to the older versions. For myself? Im going to slap 7.0 with the 8.0 skin on a stripped and locked down $100 celeron pc with XP and no explorer shell, and call it a day

all cameras are identical? Ive had brand new cameras come with bad power boards before, had to send all the cameras back to be replaced, nothing but lines. If the individual power supplies fixed it then the boards are probably not isolated or either bad or need to add an isolated power supply (or individual power supplies). Another thing if you have 2 other totally diff cameras then you could test those with the power supply you have.

even better why not use SD Cards or Jump drives.

no knocking from over here .. i use them all the time. They have their issues ofcourse but they also have their place.

Unless one has existing UTP cable or require long distances with amplified UTP devices, typically one would use RG59 Siamese Cable which has both power and video cable joined together but in separate jackets. RG59 Copper in and out with solid center, 18awg power cable. Either UTP with baluns or RG59 Siamese will typically require separate power run to the camera (you can utilize a pair on the cat5 for short distances and some cameras). For both scenarios run it back to a central area where the DVR is located and power with a Distributed FUSED power supply (eg. Altronics). Keep cable at least 1' away from high voltage. There are different scenarios and not every application is the same. Upgradable in the future will depend what you intend to upgrade to. Coax is better for CCTV applications, some baluns are rubbish and cause the video to look very bad - yes others will argue this though, everyone has an opinion. If you expect to upgrade to network cameras soon then perhaps look at some decent UTP baluns. But then again if its far in the future who knows what kind of cable and hardware we will have then.

Yeah it wont fry, right away anyway. I wouldnt expect a very long life out of it though. but then again its just a 12v bullet anyway. Either way the picture normally would be bad or non existent. Why would you only power it with 9volts though? Or you just bored tonight There are 24VAC bullet cameras also.

if the camera says it needs 12v, then it needs 12v.

u could try a wire toner .. that picks up some strange vibes .. try it on different electric devices to see what I mean. A fridge is a huge source ... but even a cell phone can be enough to get something. You need to look where you think this cell phone tx will work, I mean a vehicle is mostly metal so it needs to be somewhere it will get out around the metal and get a signal. You really need something that can find RF signals. Other than that, I guess you could always just sell the car Check with a radio business. eg. http://www.s-vip.com/eng/sm/rw_001.php http://www.s-vip.com/eng/sm/rz_006.php

What exactly are you looking for, a cell phone?